220 cdi cutting out

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

MarkyB-W202

New Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2007
Messages
26
Location
London
Car
2007 diesel C class estate
I think this dates back to about 2 months ago when I had to do an emergency stop.
I was only doing about 10 mph when I got distracted for a second and looked up to see the car in front had decided to turn right instead of going straight ahead (no indicator of course)
Stamped on the brake and stopped no problem but after I moved the car cut out and the EDC light came on.
coasted to the side of the road, turned off the ignition for a few seconds then started the car as normal.
Since then it has cut out again randomly about 4 times.
It seems to happen just after going round a corner as the car changes from 2nd to 3rd (Auto gearbox)
Any ideas?
I guess this is going to be an "opportunity" to buy a code reader.
The car does have plenty of miles on it (300,000ish).
 
Just an additional data point (and a way to bump this thread:eek:)

The engine has always been up to full working temperature when this has happened.

Does anyone know what causes the engine revs to drop as the car changes gear? vacuum or electronics?

It feels like this is cutting the fuel (or what ever it does) just a fraction too much and the engine can't recover and cuts out.

How long does it take for the gearbox to "learn" a new driving style?
Probably from boy racer to slow old codger :) in this case.
 
The whole injection system is electronic. This sounds like it may be bad connection from say the crank sensor or fuel pressure sensor, but is only made bad when cornering and gear changing takes place.

A code reder would be a good investment, especially if you have an OBD-II socket by the bonnet release.
 
I have the same problem on a Vito 108CDI. I have a manual gearbox, and when I go from the 4th into the 5th the engine cuts out and EDC light is on.
Don't bother to buy a code reader. It will show you only a message: EDC fault. Electronic Diesel Control must be injectors, high pressure pump, vacuum sensor, pressure sensor, crank sensor, etc., etc.

Please tell us what was wrong with your car, I was at Mercedes and they did not solve the problem.
 
Don't bother to buy a code reader. It will show you only a message: EDC fault. .

It should indicate the actual reason for the error, as in which sensor loses contact with the ECU or goes out of tollerance.
 
It has the 38 pin connector under the bonnet (2000 V reg) which is a bit of a pain :(.
It doesn't "feel" like something that would happen with a manual gearbox where you are definately in control of some of the gear changing operation.
I'm guessing something like an Elm scan box, a 38 pin converter and a laptop would be ideal so I could record live data?
I'll just get the codes read 1st and see what that comes up with.
It's really disconcerting when it happens :eek: but then it starts right up again as if there had never been a problem.
 
It can be suicidal. Imagine what could happen if you are passing by another car and engine stops !
My car stops in the same conditions as yours. Water 90 degrees, full working conditions. When the speed is low and I accelerate suddenly with changing the gear, the engine stops. After a few seconds I start the engine as nothing has happened.
What could it be ????:confused:
 
It can be suicidal. Imagine what could happen if you are passing by another car and engine stops !
My car stops in the same conditions as yours. Water 90 degrees, full working conditions. When the speed is low and I accelerate suddenly with changing the gear, the engine stops. After a few seconds I start the engine as nothing has happened.
What could it be ????:confused:

Fuel pressure regulator at the back of the rail is my guess on your Vito.
 
I've changed the fuel pressure regulator 2 months ago, no effect. When the engine is cold, it doesn't stop. Checked the injectors, too. :crazy:
 
After a bit of searching on Ebay I found item
330258740261
rtCurve.gif
Which looks like it should do the job and will probably cost less than taking it into the dealer.
Same seller also has item 230277812970 which appears almost exactly the same except support for other languages which is no use to me.
Anyone here tried this type of reader?
 
Today it got much worse :(.
Drivng back from Shropshire it cut out twice on the motorway.
Once when I was just speeding up to overtake then shortly afterwards accelerating away from the hard shoulder just after the 1st time.
Then all was well got through London as far as coming under the Bow flyover when it cut out again, then again, and one last time just the other side of the flyover
It turns out it would only rev to just above 2000 revs maybe 2400 then the EPC light came on and the engine cut out.
With some help from an MOT place I stopped outside I found a place locally that could read the codes.

I was really shocked when the code reader said the were NO current codes!
It looked to be a fairly competent piece of kit though I'm not so sure about the operator (I had to point out the 38 pin connector)
The codes he pulled (and cleared) were:

P1630 drive authorisation system
P0201 Injection cyl 1
116 TR oil temp lock out OVP
B1416 coolant circualtion pump.

Still can't believe there was nothing current. It had only cut out about 15 minutes beforehand!
I'll take to my local place and get him to see if any more codes have been set since those were cleared and replace the fuel filters.

Anyone got any ideas what else to look at?

I did manage to notice a couple of clear pipes right at the front of the engine and they showed no signs of air in the diesel.
Sorry for the long post.
 
It's looking a bit like crank sensor or simple fuel starvation. Replace the sensor as a precaution.
 
:cool: I have both types of crank sensors in stock if you need one (brand new German)
 
I'm thinking it must be fuel starvation as surely a crank sensor fault would set a code?
The tank strainer could easily be the culprit. Is there an easy way to check it?
I did run round and take off the fuel cap just after it 1st cut out on Bow but there was no sign of air rushing in so not the breather either.
 
I see from the fault code it says injector cyl 1. If the injector goes open circuit the engine will cut out. Run the engine and pull the injector wire off to prove a point. This may be the cause of you problem. Swap the injector to number 2 cylinder and see if the fault code reoccurs on that cylinder. Remember to get new seals and injector bolts as they should be replaced when removing them..
 
Thanks for the information.
I'm a bit surprised that a malfunction on one injector will stop the engine.
Not exactly fail-save is it?
Would I be right in thinking that current codes are only those that occur after the last time this ignition was turned on?
I'm going to take the plastic cover off the top of the engine at lunchtime and have a look at the connections.
There are some signs that it may be quite oily under there.
 
Thanks for the help guys.
Took the cover off in my lunch break which revealed a bit of a mess.
It looks like there is a small diesel leak from the area of the number 4 injector and some oil fumes coming from the plastic lump next to number 1 (breather?).
I took some pictures and the one of the cover illustrates the situation best.
Pulled the connector from No.1 and it was wet with diesel/oil gave both bits a spray with Maplins finest switch cleaner the swabbed them both with some kitchen towel.
The connector and the cover both had quite heavy soot deposits which I've scraped off.
Anyhoo, plugged the connector back on and gave it a try.
Success :bannana: revved up to 2500 no problemo.

On the way home I gave it a proper go with everything nicely up to temperature and it seems to be fine :cool:

So, now more questions. Is there a torque setting for injector pipe nuts?
What lies within that plastic breather housing? is there something that might need cleaning or replacing?

The routing of the wires and the return pipe on no. 4 leave a lot to be desired but it seems like there is not enough slack in the wire to route through the gap it should go through.
And the return pipe has been put over the injector pipe instead of under so it gets pinched by the cover (might be the source of the leak) It felt a bit hardened when I tried to pull it off, should I replace the return pipes?

One more thing, the back edge of the cover has worn through the covering of the wiring loom behind the engine and started on the insulation :eek: any cunning plans to stop it going further?

Sorry for another long post and I must point out this car has major miles on it and an unknown service history.
 

Attachments

  • head4.jpg
    head4.jpg
    68.5 KB · Views: 44

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom