230CE fan coupling issue

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slav4o1

Active Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2008
Messages
65
hello guys,
i am currently having nightmare with my fan coupling. the story:
car overheats in traffic so i spotted fan doesnt rotate therefore I got a fan coupling (magnetic) from euro car parts for 48 quid. Right i took the fan off it is held on one bolt. then there are 4 torx T30 bolts to take off. I took 3 and i ruined one (the head of it is almost round i couldnt do it but thats another story). then i started the engine and i realised the axis which comes out and which the fan is connected with actually rotates just the fan has that bearing inside it which prevents it from rotating? what can i do? any suggestions.

the part i got is called fan coupling but seems very odd and i dont think its wrong as the axis spins , is it a new fan what i need, cheers everybody!!!
 
there are two types of fan coupling-one is the magnetic type as found in the 190 series. Its operated by a thermal switch which causes the electromagnetic clutch to engage thus rotating the fan. The other type is the viscous coupling type which is normally held on to the water pump pulley by a LEFT HAND THREAD NUT. I am not sure which you have. Is it this one? http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.412&CT=M&cat=504&SID=20&SGR=015&SGN=01
 
yes the part i bought seems the same (part 38) but i cant open it as the 4th screw (they can be seen on the diagram) i have ruined. the car is built 1991, November.

magnetic type comes on euro car parts database so lets assume is magnetic, the axis that is connected to the fan is spinning , would it still be the coupling?
 
I should perhaps explain a bit more. The " ring shaped magnet" 6 ( its helpful to regard it as a large solenoid coil) is fixed to the pump body casting 1 via the carrier 7 i.e it doesn't move (yellow) It should have 2 electrical connections to it-usually one to earth- the other to the temperature operated switch in the cylinder head for the 12v supply. The pump spindle and pulley ( driven by the poly V belt) run on the main water pump bearing 2 and projects right out to the outer bolt 15 -(all constantly rotating parts are in pink) The fan 10 (blue) is normally free to rotate on the ball bearing 11- i. e. it is not coupled to the main pump shaft. When the solenoid is energised the armature 12 (blue) -a steel ring embeded in the fan body is locked to the main pump pulley flange 4 - the fan is thus driven by the water pump pulley.


You will have to get that 4th bolt out somehow to get the pulley off the shaft - you can try jamming an old screw driver into the head of the bolt to turn it. then you can replace the solenoid coil. You can test the solenoid by putting 12volts across it That should lock the fan to the fan pulley if its working. .If the solenoid is OK then it may be the switch on the cylinder head.
 
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thanks so much for the effort the diagram really helped. I still havent had the bolt out, seem like it has to be drilled therefore the rad removed and the antifreeze drained.

"The fan 10 (blue) is normally free to rotate on the ball bearing 11- i. e. it is not coupled to the main pump shaft. When the solenoid is energised the armature 12 (blue) -a steel ring embeded in the fan body is locked to the main pump pulley flange 4 - the fan is thus driven by the water pump pulley."

Exactly the fan rotates free on the ball bearing and where 12 is i cant see any catches? so it is engaged magnetically right? magnet drives it. if so that sorts the problem out so the solenoid bit i got has definetely failed!
thanks i will let you know when i do the job. I am thinking if i can weld another little bot on top of that one so i can take it out cheers so much again!
 
RIGHT here is what happened: I managed to change the part put back the belt but surprice car's fan still didnt rotate and the car still overheats in traffic seem like waste of time and money.. the old solenoid (the black bit)was cracked anyway but now i am thinking of fault with the cabling there or fault with the sensor that "tells" the magnetic coupling to engage the fan? any ideas please anyone? highly appreciated thanks
 
IIRC there is a water temperature sensor on the head at the front top corner, where the water hose exits.
 
IIRC there is a water temperature sensor on the head at the front top corner, where the water hose exits.
thanks i will look it up tomorrow i assume it is easily changeable, plug and play? tnx
 
ITEM 98
It's a switch, just short it out after checking the voltages on it.

Ok finally I got some time and bought the thermo-switch from GSF but now I dont know which one it is as on the top there are 3 sensors. One on the right has two rubber tubes which I have removed and unscrewed but it seems smaller than the one I got. There are two more but none of the two look like the one I bought ( i did specify what car and that has the electromagnetic coupling) and I can't show pictures unfortunately. Which one of the two it is , the one closer to the fan or the one that is almost half way underneath the airfilter box?
 
I think its the one nearest the front of the engine. It will have 1 2 or three pin connections.Take off the connector. The switch usually just earths the electromagnetic coupling via heat sensitive bimetal strip. If it has one pin the body of the switch acts as the earth. 2 pin switch has 12v from the coupling and earth supply pins. the 3pin switch is for cars with air conditioning. Its G in the diagram
 
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