280CE Coupe now moving

[Philip1]

Finally managed to put my 280CE coupe on the road.

.



The brakes don't seem to have much bite but I've never driven one of these before.
The main water ingress was through the door to body rubber connecting ducts which
I have temporally sealed but will have to be replaced if they are available!!

I'm using 95RON unleaded fuel at present . I think I read somewhere that the
M110 engine had hardened valve seats and was OK with this. Please tell me if I'm wrong.

Lots of work still to do. The D jetronic still running fast at idle when hot but I am unable to
find any air leak, poor power under load. Think I'll just have to work my way through all
the tests on fuel pressure vacuum and electrics and hope I find something.

Very pleased with the way she is now looking but a lot of polishing still to do.

 

[slade1]

MB cars since the 1950s have been able to run on unleaded petrol.

 

[grober]

Finally managed to put my 280CE coupe on the road.

.View attachment 116292

View attachment 116293

The brakes don't seem to have much bite but I've never driven one of these before.
The main water ingress was through the door to body rubber connecting ducts which
I have temporally sealed but will have to be replaced if they are available!!

I'm using 95RON unleaded fuel at present . I think I read somewhere that the
M110 engine had hardened valve seats and was OK with this. Please tell me if I'm wrong.

Lots of work still to do. The D jetronic still running fast at idle when hot but I am unable to
find any air leak, poor power under load. Think I'll just have to work my way through all
the tests on fuel pressure vacuum and electrics and hope I find something.

Very pleased with the way she is now looking but a lot of polishing still to do.

Wouter's page : Bosch D-Jetronic MAY offer some clues?

Testing Trigger Points - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Starting a new thread, and quoting part of another one: From Schroeter: I've got good spark. Seems to want to start for 1 second, then no kicking.

www.peachparts.com

best most comprehensive site

D-Jetronic from A to Z for all manufacturers

D-Jetronic article series by Dr-DJet

jetronic.org

 

[Philip1]

MB cars since the 1950s have been able to run on unleaded petrol.

Thanks Slade1, that's reassuring to hear that. I wasn't 100%.

 

[Philip1]

Wouter's page : Bosch D-Jetronic MAY offer some clues?

Testing Trigger Points - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Starting a new thread, and quoting part of another one: From Schroeter: I've got good spark. Seems to want to start for 1 second, then no kicking.

www.peachparts.com

best most comprehensive site

D-Jetronic from A to Z for all manufacturers

D-Jetronic article series by Dr-DJet

jetronic.org

Thanks Graeme,
Plenty there for me to try and get my head round.

 

[Martin 1]

Looks absolutely stunning ! The medal is in the post

 

[Philip1]

Looks absolutely stunning ! The medal is in the post

Thanks Martin 1
That's very kind of you to say. But there is quite a bit of marking in the paint that I'm going to try and get out.

 

[alabbasi]

Pretty car, DB 906 silver blue right? The high idle is likely the idle air valve which can stick. All cars with alloy heads have hardened valve seats and just about every post war Mercedes used alloy heads.

I should get cracking on mine

 

[Martin 1]

Don't say the words "head" and "cracking" in the same sentence

 

[Philip1]

Pretty car, DB 906 silver blue right? The high idle is likely the idle air valve which can stick. All cars with alloy heads have hardened valve seats and just about every post war Mercedes used alloy heads.

I should get cracking on mine

Thanks for your reply, its DB 387 metallic blue. I've had a quick look at the idle air valve, pulled the valve feed pipe off the top of the air filter and plugged it. this reduced the speed slightly. I suppose I should disconnect it at the end it connects to the manifold and seal it to isolate the whole valve circuit. I also disconnected and plugged the feed to the pneumatic latches and plugged. Its still too fast when hot. Hope I don't have to remove the idle valve, it looks a swine for access.

 

[alabbasi]

Is your idle screw backed out all the way?
Have you checked the ignition timing?

If you plug the idle air valve , your car will run like crap when cold.

 

[Philip1]

Thanks Al, this is all very helpful as D jetronic is new to me. With a cold engine and the idle air plugged it runs quite well just a little slow. This makes me think air is getting in somewhere else.

I've made an assumption that when the car was driven into the garage 20+ years ago all the settings were correct. Its looking like that was incorrect.

I've just tried the the idle screw and it turns 5.5 turns to the stop and slows the engine considerably so that's a good start I'll try and find a correct adjustment later. Very little restance to turning so may have moved with vibration. Seems like the valve feed pipe may also be leaking. I'll try and work out later if the valve is sticking.

Plenty for me to look at for the moment.
Thanks again for putting me on the right track.

 

[Philip1]

Had a look at the distributor this week, found that the vacuum retarder, and mechanical advance had all seized. Was hoping this was the cause of the fast idle when hot. Serviced the distributor and all working correctly now, reset timing with vacuum disconnected and at max advance to 32° BTDC. This is the best setting info I can find.
Engine now runs fine cold but speeding up as it warms. Will have to bypass the idle air valve and see if that's the problem.

Still unable to find door to body rubber connecting ducts at a sensible price. Can anyone help with a source for these at a reasonable price.

While working on the distributor discovered the trigger points and checked these. They are giving good connection closed and both contacts are opening for about 200° not sure if this angle is correct, but seem to be functioning correctly.

 

[Flyinspanner]

Try ”Woolies” for car trim, think they carry lots of seals etc.

 

[grober]

Had a look at the distributor this week, found that the vacuum retarder, and mechanical advance had all seized. Was hoping this was the cause of the fast idle when hot. Serviced the distributor and all working correctly now, reset timing with vacuum disconnected and at max advance to 32° BTDC. This is the best setting info I can find.
Engine now runs fine cold but speeding up as it warms. Will have to bypass the idle air valve and see if that's the problem.

Still unable to find door to body rubber connecting ducts at a sensible price. Can anyone help with a source for these at a reasonable price.

While working on the distributor discovered the trigger points and checked these. They are giving good connection closed and both contacts are opening for about 200° not sure if this angle is correct, but seem to be functioning correctly.

D-Jetronic chapter 7: Trigger contacts / points

Chapter 7 of D-Jetronic article series by Dr-DJet describes ttrigger contacts. Trigger contacts (TC) are a wear and tear part and need maintenance and replaceme

jetronic.org

Pulse generator contacts

Pulse generator contacts

jetronic.org

 

[grober]

D-Jetronic chapter 7: Trigger contacts / points

Chapter 7 of D-Jetronic article series by Dr-DJet describes ttrigger contacts. Trigger contacts (TC) are a wear and tear part and need maintenance and replaceme

jetronic.org

Pulse generator contacts

Pulse generator contacts

jetronic.org

A DWELL METER MEASURES HOW LONG ANY POINTS ARE CLOSED--in a 2 lobed trigger point distributor each point contact made [earthed] fires 3 cylinder injectors of a 6 cylinder engine -2 lots of 3=6

 

[Martin 1]

There are Jaguar door/body ducts, front and back that can be fitted, and they're fairly cheap.

 

[grober]

dwell meter circuit

kd7rem's Dwell Meter

 

[Philip1]

A DWELL METER MEASURES HOW LONG ANY POINTS ARE CLOSED--in a 2 lobed trigger point distributor each point contact made [earthed] fires 3 cylinder injectors of a 6 cylinder engine -2 lots of 3=6

Thanks Graeme,
I used an ohmmeter on the trigger contact terminals and rotated the shaft. It was approx 150°-160° dwell on each contact. I think I read in one of your posts that new contacts give about 110° dwell so mine are looking worn but still seem to work OK.
Had a look at kd7rem's dwell meter. Think that may be a bit beyond me.
Still trying to work out how the injectors fire at 120° intervals from the trigger contacts signal every 360° of engine rotation. Perhaps this will all make sense when I've spent a little more time reading.
Thanks again Phil.

 

[Philip1]

Try ”Woolies” for car trim, think they carry lots of seals etc.

Thanks for this, had a quick look at their site and they look promising. Will be contacting them.