280E w124 head gasket

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Merc Boi

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Feb 20, 2008
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3
im going to do the head gasket on my dads 280e

anything to watch out for?

ive sourced a headset but no head bolts included

when doing this, do the head bolts need renewing? or can i use the old ones

any special tools required? locking pins or tensioner tools?

any info would be great :)
 
think you need to renew the bolts.. have you thought about changing chain and tensioner whilst you are there?
 
i did think about this, the cars done well over 100k so thought the chain may have been done before, will german and swedish do the headbolts/chain/tensioner kit? do you know where i can source the torque wrench settings aswell?

thanks for quick reply
 
I have had experiance with non gen head gasket sets and don't find them that good and you don't want to be doing the job twice!!

I always stick to MB for such parts. I believe Mr Walker had trouble with a non gen one before.
 
Yep,

Get a price on a genuine head gasket from MB before you look elsewhere, might surprise you how reasonable some of the parts are :)

You can measure the bolts for stretch and then decide on whether to replace/reuse, ideally new bolts - only a couple of quid each.

Definately change the chain/tensioner if it's old/worn.

Someone with WIS or similar should have the torque spec for your car :)

Good luck,

Will
 
I always stick to MB for such parts. I believe Mr Walker had trouble with a non gen one before.
Dead right there Oliver. An 8 hour job took 16 hours. Get an Mb Gasket set. Well worth the cost.

Torque settings

55Ft Lbs, then 90 degrees, allow to settle for 20 mins then a further 90 degrees. Do not forget to oil the head bolts at the collar, but not the threads. Run a tap down the head to block holes to clean them out. You will need a breaker bar, torque wrench and a spline set to remove / refit the head. 27mm socket for the crankshaft and timing chain tensioner. At 100k it will be worth changing the chain. When removing the head, leave the exhaust manifold attached, its easier. Caution, the head although made of aluminium, is heavy. get some help to lift it off. The inlet manifold undo the bolts and pull off the head, no lose of vac line positions that way. Take care undoing the loom as being oldish it may crack. When removing the cams undo the bolts a 1/4 turn each starting from the centre and working outwards. If you don't you are in danger of snapping a cam. When you have the head off replace the valve stem oil seals too.
 
MB parts every time,false economy otherwise. You will need an engineering "flat edge" to check if the head is true and hasn't warped slightly. Might need to to planed. Once its off take it to an engine machine shop to get it checked. They should do it for nothing on the promise of a machining job if its required.
 
is there a MB place online i can get quotes and order the parts from and get deleivered?
 
Dead right there Oliver. An 8 hour job took 16 hours. Get an Mb Gasket set. Well worth the cost.

Torque settings

55Ft Lbs, then 90 degrees, allow to settle for 20 mins then a further 90 degrees. Do not forget to oil the head bolts at the collar, but not the threads. Run a tap down the head to block holes to clean them out. You will need a breaker bar, torque wrench and a spline set to remove / refit the head. 27mm socket for the crankshaft and timing chain tensioner. At 100k it will be worth changing the chain. When removing the head, leave the exhaust manifold attached, its easier. Caution, the head although made of aluminium, is heavy. get some help to lift it off. The inlet manifold undo the bolts and pull off the head, no lose of vac line positions that way. Take care undoing the loom as being oldish it may crack. When removing the cams undo the bolts a 1/4 turn each starting from the centre and working outwards. If you don't you are in danger of snapping a cam. When you have the head off replace the valve stem oil seals too.

Sorry Ian its 55NM not Ft Lbs.
 
I am such a geek.

I need to get out more.
 

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