280TE 1982 Servicing

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paddingtonfire

Active Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Messages
62
Location
London / East Anglia
Car
1992 W124 300TD Estate & 1982 W123 280TE
Evening All,

I've just got hold of a nice one owner 280TE, and want to service it for a bit of piece of mind, and I wondered if the forum could confirm/deny a few questions please.

First question is regarding oil choice. I know it's a huge subject, but the service record says Castrol GTX pretty much from new, but looking at their site it seems they don't do the old fashioned multigrade anymore. Can anyone give me a decent alternative?

I want to change both the diff and gearbox oils. Again, I can't find much info on it, but can I have a suggestion please, along with any tips on doing the job?

Is there any way of flushing the rear suspension system, as my oil looks a bit black (at least it's there lol).

Power steering fluid - worth changing or just topping up?

What spark plug gap?

What points gap?

And last (for now), in order to access the N/S headlamp washer motor (seized), do I have to remove the lamp and washer bottle?

Thanks ever so much, first of a few posts I suspect....

Mike
 
Hi , Halfords are still listing Castrol GTX 15W40 on their website , although I tend to buy it from my local Tesco as they are cheaper . Also , there used to be a 'high mileage' version of that oil which I used in my older cars , but I haven't seen it in a while :(

The diff will have a drain plug and fill plug - once you clean around these it should be easy enough to change .

Automatic gearbox oil changes have been covered elsewhere on the forum - there is a 'sticky' somewhere by one of the expereinced guys showing how to do it , illustrated with photos - the job is pretty similar on most of the cars .

The power steering fluid is just ATF , unless your steering box is leaking ( should be obvious ) I would just top up .

The SLS uses ZHM mineral oil ( expensive ) - I would drain the reservoir and replenish with fresh fluid , letting it work round the system , and repeat a few times until the fluid looks clear - I don't think there is a drain point as such . The pipes do rot at the back end ( usually above the rear suspension ) so check you aren't going to have to change pipework anyway before you start this .

From memory , the HWW motor is attached to the underside of the headlamp , you have to take the lamp unit out to work on it - not so difficult . You might try lying under the car and see if you can access it from below , but will probably need eye protection .

I no longer have a 280 ( have had W114 280E , W123 280E/CE/TE , W116 280SE and W126 280SE at different times ) so no longer have a handbook to look up and most of the above is hazy recollection :)

I just checked and Haynes still list a manual for the W123 280 - their manual ref 0677 - which you should be able to order in .

Their manual will list fluid specs and things like plug and points gaps . Ignition leads on the M110 were always a weak point with them burning and grounding against the cam covers , especially in the narrow gap where they go from the dizzy cap up and over inlet side cam cover , also important that all the little plastic clips are present and cables routed neatly to avoid misfiring .

These are nice cars - enjoy ! Mine was a late ( B reg ) 280TE in Champagne Gold , and I miss it .
 
I would use 20/50 classic oil from Halfords. Have used it on old BMWs (E3 and E23) for years. Have no problems and it's cheap.
 
I used Duckhams 20/50 in my older Mercs , until they stopped making it , then switched to GTX .
 
First question is regarding oil choice.

You want a 10w/40 semi synthetic oil. I use shell helix but any of the decent brands will be fine. Usually cheapest in Costco, Euro Car Parts or other such places.

I want to change both the diff and gearbox oils. Again, I can't find much info on it, but can I have a suggestion please, along with any tips on doing the job?

The diff takes SAE 90 fluid but not readily available. 80/90 is available off the shelf... Just let the fluid drain and then refill.... Its handy to have a pump to refill the fluid.. I use one of those suction type things... looks like a large bicycle pump.

I now buy the correct fluid from Mercedes. I dont have the part number to hand but the parts department can look it up easily from your chassis.

Is there any way of flushing the rear suspension system, as my oil looks a bit black (at least it's there lol).

Yes very easy. Buy some ZHM fluid from either Euro Car Parts, GSF etc. You need 4-5 litres....
Undo all the connections and empty the reservoir and clean it out including the filter. The stuff in the bottom is usually rancid.
Then connect all back apart from the return pipe (top pipe). fill the reservior to top and start car... very quickly fluid will pour out of the return so you need to either have made a hose extension or somehow have a catch can for it. Some cars you can fit a container in there... some you cant.

As its coming through you need to keep topping up the new fluid and stop when the old fluid is coming out nice and clean.

Well worth it.

Power steering fluid - worth changing or just topping up?

Yes well worth doing this.. Similar to above... Suck all old fluid out, then disconnect return and similar process to above... It takes Dexron 2 ATF.

What spark plug gap?

0.8mm


What points gap?

No points to worry about, electronic ignition.

Other things that these need usually are:

- Distributor car & rotor arm.
- ATF transmission fluid flush. Do not forget the torque convertor has a drain plug as it holds most of the fluid.
- Coolant Change
- Fuel Filter... This job can turn into a nightmare if fittings are rust and seized.. If you plan on doing this ill go into more detail.
- Fan Belts
- Brake Fluid Change
 
Gents thanks very much for your detailed replies. I've invested in a manual and will use that along with your info.

I spent Saturday acquainting myself with the engine bay and beginning to get some service bits. When I picked the car up the only thing that worried me was the low engine oil level, so I added some Shell multigrade 15w30 for the time being. That seemed odd, because the rest of the car was so nicely looked after. For now I'm regarding it as an oversight. I'm getting good oil pressure at all times other than tickover, and when hot the pressure drops to just above 1 bar.

I've got a load of a Mercedes ZHM oil left over from when the system b*****ed up on the W124 estate, so I will definitely do that, thanks for the info.

I use SAE90 on the old fire engines, so if that's what it needs I've got it.

The gearbox level appears ok, but for completeness I'll change it. A question though... Does this box generally pull away in 1st, and are the changes a bit jerkier than I'm used to on the W124, and the W124 it pulls away in second unless I ask it to (try) and pull away a bit quicker. Thoughts anyone?

I had the air filter and assembly off to look underneath at the carb etc... Looked quite clean, but did squirt some cleaner through it as I'd had some flat spots directly after start up. I want to change the fuel filter, but (embarrassingly) I couldn't see it... Is it that cruddy a job?

The tappets definitely need an adjust, there's a video on YouTube about that - doesn't look too arduous - any tips at all?
 

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Hi , most of my 280's used a bit of oil , not a problem as long as you keep an eye on it .

Yes , the boxes normally start in second , unless you select 'L' ( low ) from standstill , or use kickdown .

Incidentally , I work for SFRS , based at the old Strathclyde HQ in Hamilton , and sometimes work with our preservation group who have a nice collection of preserved appliances too :)
 
Nice one, I've got a pre war Metz, Magirus and a post war AEC ET, keeps me busy... I must visit there sometime and the Edinburgh one.

I've started another thread regarding the 'box, I'm more of a crash box bloke so these auto's are a bit new to me... Hoping for some replies!

Mike
 
Let me know if you're coming up and I'll put you in touch with the guys so that you can see the places not normally accessible to the public .

Since we're now all one big , happy family , our museum in Greenock , and the one in Edinburgh all come under the same umbrella :)
 
Jay, thanks for the info things are poodling along nicely. I've got a transmission oil filter and gasket to change, but having had a poke around underneath - where is the torque converter drain? When I was in the shop the guy in there said he had a '2 bolt' or a '3 bolt' filter. I've got a three. Before I immobilise the car and drain the gearbox and torque converter, can anyone say which one I should have? (1982 280TE can supply numbers if necessary).

I've got some straight EP90 to treat the diff with, it's a GL5 spec pretty basic stuff, just checking this is ok?

Ta,

Mike
 
There will usually be a plug on the torque converter but you may have to rotate the crankshaft nut on the front of the engine, using a mirror underneath the converter to see it as you turn the engine over. I think it will be an allen key that you need to remove it.
Sorry not sure about the filter....
 
SL300-24 said:
There will usually be a plug on the torque converter but you may have to rotate the crankshaft nut on the front of the engine, using a mirror underneath the converter to see it as you turn the engine over. I think it will be an allen key that you need to remove it. Sorry not sure about the filter....

Yes you can normally rotate the torque converter by using a large flat screwdriver on flywheel teeth through the casing.

As for the filter I always use genuine mb which will be right first time! If there is a choice buy both and send wrong one back as you don't want to be stuck.. On those it's very easy to over tighten the sump bolts, the setting is only 8nm so be careful...

Diff oil I use sae90. I've been buying genuine mb stuff recently as getting difficult to find the correct spec aftermarket..
 
Evening All,

Still batting on with bits and pieces, but I'm still a little stuck on a couple of things.

First my gearbox. When I go to pull away the car wants to be in second gear, but as soon as I put my foot on the accelerator however lightly she kicks down into first. The oil level is a little high, but in my browsing I notice there are adjustments I can make to things like the downshift rod and selector linkage, but the instructions aren't that clear. Has anyone any idea if this may help?

Second is my headlamp washer motor. I've replaced it, but it won't power up. Looking at the wiring diagram (280TE from chassis end 007 619, item 52), it seems it's spliced off the loom for the headlamp wiper motor. I'm no electrician, but does anyone have any info that might help please?

Ta,

Mike
 
Slacken off the cable / linkage. Just go a few turns and test and repeat until it feels good.
 
Thanks - Can I just double check do you mean the accelerator linkage or the gear stick one?

One thing I've noticed is there's a fair bit of play on the accelerator cable and then takes up and does what it's supposed to. To me it doesn't seem right but I don't know enough about these yet to know what's the correct set up. Anyone?

Cheers,

Mike
 
Thanks - Can I just double check do you mean the accelerator linkage or the gear stick one?

One thing I've noticed is there's a fair bit of play on the accelerator cable and then takes up and does what it's supposed to. To me it doesn't seem right but I don't know enough about these yet to know what's the correct set up. Anyone?

Cheers,

Mike

Hi there,

First post for me. I'm looking for a 280TE. Do you still have yours?

Kruger 07780851135
 
OP hasn't been here for 3 and a half years, so you may not get a response.
 

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