6.2 - Which Oil?

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Alex225

MB Enthusiast
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CLS63 AMG
I am looking to put my CLS63 (2007) into storage as it's simply not getting used at the moment and I could do with the space. I have found a local car storage facility so all good.

Before it goes in, I'd like to get an oil service carried out just for peace of mind so I was planning to order some oil online.

I usually buy from Opie Oils but they're suggestions of oils are all 5w 40 but having a scout around on here there have been other suggestions.

Could anyone advise what oil would be recommended or anywhere online I can order from.
 
Lots of people don't think to do this, but it's good practice because engine oil ends up carrying the corrosive byproducts of the combustion process so changing the oil before long periods of non-use reduces the chances of internal engine corrosion. Well done for thinking of it. Just make sure that the engine is fully up to operating temperature the last time it's run before storage so that the corrosive condensates from combustion evaporate off.

And as you're putting it into storage, I wouldn't be too concerned as to whether it was a 5w 40 or 5w 30 oil that you put in as when you recommission it you'll be changing the oil again, right?
 
Well the way I look at it, it's an expensive car to me and one worth keeping mint. Ok, so I wouldn't have a specialist stamp/receipt but would have proof it's had an oil change regardless of mileage, plus why be a cheapskate and just keep the oil in there! For the sake of a £100 or so, I may as well have that peace of mind to know it's got new oil in it.

I would be aiming to change the oil once the car is back on the road anyway and getting a full service carried out anyway. What would you recommend as the normal oil for that M156? I don't mind buying either just want it to be the MB spec it should have. :)

The place I planning to use for storage will be transporting the car anyway so technically it won't need to be driven but they can arrange the MOT for when it's ready to be used (and taken for a service!) :)
 
Leaving oil in that is due to be drained soon is, as per st13phil's assertion, a bad idea. But the fresh oil will be alkaline (also corrosive) from new to compensate for the increasing acidity in service. Around half way through the oil's service life, it should be neutral. If that's where it is at by any chance, I'd be inclined to leave it in (after parking up hot).
If you do use fresh oil then there's really no need to change it to recommission. If that is on the cards though, you could consider a non engine oil fortified with corrosion inhibitors (eg compressor/hydraulic/turbine oil) and let the engine do little more than idle to let it circulate. I have an R1 engine here set aside with an oil designed for the back end of tractors in it. Put there to permit compression testing, left there for its anti corrosion additives and that it doesn't have to juggle the alkaline/acidic balance. Its tackiness should let it adhere to all surfaces.
It will never be run with that oil though, other than possibly a once only fire up when finally installed in whatever it winds up in.
 
Thanks for the info, I wouldn't have known that. It's hard to say in terms of the oil that's currently in the car as I've done next to no miles since the last service, based on what you said Bellow it's probably in the alkaline stage anyway.

To give you an idea it's only done about 50 miles since the last oil change over a year ago.
 
Thanks for the info, I wouldn't have known that. It's hard to say in terms of the oil that's currently in the car as I've done next to no miles since the last service, based on what you said Bellow it's probably in the alkaline stage anyway.

To give you an idea it's only done about 50 miles since the last oil change over a year ago.

Just leave it in. There's nothing to be gained by changing it. The only caveat is that if it's been doing lots of cold starts but never getting fully warm, then as per st13phil's suggestion, getting it hot enough (oil lags behind water temp - whatever miles it takes to bring water to full temp, reckon on the same again for the oil, and more if you think it has had 50 miles of cold starts) before it's final shutdown. This is also good for the exhaust system.
Generally, lubricants (stored correctly) will outlast their containers.
 
In terms of engine starts, probably a handful of times really. I was just mindful of the age of the oil although I do appreciate synthetic oils do last longer.
 
Mineral oils were millions of years in the making....
Just get it as hot as possible (a 30 mile run if you can will just about suffice) before final shutdown and park it up. It'll be fine.

The only other consideration if it's to be laid up for a long time (years) is turning the engine over (but not starting) occasionally. Via a socket on the nose of the crank if there's access, or with fuelling disabled (pump fuse pulled) and starter motor used. If the latter and the car has a manual transmission, have the engine turning with a gear engaged and the clutch pedal depressed. A seized clutch can be a PITA to rectify.
If the above does reflect the duration of it's lay up, then other factors eg tyres, seals drying out, etc, become higher priorities.
 
That is a very good point!

I may struggle with the full warm up, purely as the car is SORN and has no MOT. The best I could probably do is run the car for a length of time albeit without it moving. Reality is that the car is going to remain fairly static until it's transported basically.
 
i would be more concerned about just about every other fluid in the car rather than the engine oil (fuel/brake fluid/coolant/washer bottle/batteries etc). Also the tyres and every 'rubber' joint and suspension part left static.

Cars need to be driven or completely put in preservation state.
 
All the other fluids will be checked that's not a problem.

In terms of being 'completely put in preservation' how do you mean? Genuine question. :)
 
Off the top of my head, easily 12 months.

I have unintentionally done the same with other cars I own albeit under car covers and they've been fine but the CLS I am being that bit more mindful of.
 
The link above by Amgeed is the oil you need.
 
Brilliant, thanks AMGeed! :)

Also thanks to everyone for all the replies on here.
 
Cracking engine the 6.2. I purchased my 6.2 just of late and had and oil change just for piece of mind. Went with the recommended grade of 0w40 mobile 1 . But like others have said there are other grades suitable. Shame to have to put it away for a long period you will mis it imagine. Good luck with what ever you decide. Not to many of us 6.2 folk on here :thumb:
 
Cracking engine the 6.2. I purchased my 6.2 just of late and had and oil change just for piece of mind. Went with the recommended grade of 0w40 mobile 1 . But like others have said there are other grades suitable. Shame to have to put it away for a long period you will mis it imagine. Good luck with what ever you decide. Not to many of us 6.2 folk on here :thumb:

Amg now recommend 5/40 it was changed quite some time ago from 0/40.
 

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