722.9 conductor plate removal and refit.

[e280x]

After a while of suffering the car going in to lump mode every few months I've finally taken out the conductor plate to send it off for repair.
I saw on here once all the torque specs for putting it all back together
-Torque for the solenoid brackets,
-Bolting the conductor plate on to the valve body,
-Bolting both on to the underside of the transmission.

I cant seem to find this thread now, does any one know where it is?

Also, what is the reason for having the car in Neutral and not Park when doing this work?

Many thanks

 

[AntMB]

What are the symptoms of a problem with the conductor plate?

 

[e280x]

Car would go in to like a limp mode. It would rev and not change gear, when you selected another gear the whole car would judder. Turn it of and back on again and everything would be fine.

 

[zipdip]

I cannot find it either,I only have one Torque written down thats the valve body to the gearbox and that is 7nm,not much help.

 

[bob6600]

Bolt, Solenoid valve to shift plate = 8Nm
Bolt, electrohydraulic controller unit to transmission housing = Stage 1 Nm 4, stage 2 90deg
Solenoid brackets (leaf springs) to transmission housing =5Nm

 

[e280x]

Bolt, Solenoid valve to shift plate = 8Nm
Bolt, electrohydraulic controller unit to transmission housing = Stage 1 Nm 4, stage 2 90deg
Solenoid brackets (leaf springs) to transmission housing =5Nm

Thanks fella, That's a big help.

 

[ManofKent]

Did you find out why you put it in neutral not park for this work?

 

[e280x]

No definitive answer as yet, I did find that putting the conductor plate and valve body back in was near impossible because the gear selector pin in side the gearbox was in the way, I have no idea how it came out because the gear wasn’t changed.
I put it in to N got the plate and conductor plate in and put it back in P again.
If any one knows the real reason please do let me know.