7G-tronic problem - Help

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Hi everyone! Today I took the car (CL500 2004) to my local garage as the ABC (white warning) light had been popping on for a few days now. They did conduct a diagnosis and an error was found. A couple of hours later I returned to the garage and I was told that the front near side valve, below the strut, is leaking and this is causing the system to loose pressure. I've asked for a repair estimation but they couldn't say as they didn't know the part's price. I was then told that enough fluid to keep me going had been added to the system until I returned to have it fixed. On my way home, the car was fine but suddenly there was no torque to the wheels- no jerks, no jolts, nothing - high revs and no go I managed to limp home (2 miles drive) but when I moved gear to R, as i was parking, the car just "died" and it wouldn't start again. After 4 or 5 minutes, however, it did start and I had gears again. I haven't driven it since...Can someone offer some suggestion or comments?

Thank you
 
coolamg said:
Hi everyone! Today I took the car (CL500 2004) to my local garage as the ABC (white warning) light had been popping on for a few days now. They did conduct a diagnosis and an error was found. A couple of hours later I returned to the garage and I was told that the front near side valve, below the strut, is leaking and this is causing the system to loose pressure. I've asked for a repair estimation but they couldn't say as they didn't know the part's price. I was then told that enough fluid to keep me going had been added to the system until I returned to have it fixed. On my way home, the car was fine but suddenly there was no torque to the wheels- no jerks, no jolts, nothing - high revs and no go I managed to limp home (2 miles drive) but when I moved gear to R, as i was parking, the car just "died" and it wouldn't start again. After 4 or 5 minutes, however, it did start and I had gears again. I haven't driven it since...Can someone offer some suggestion or comments? Thank you

Take it to a specialist or main dealer. It needs proper diagnosis with a Star.

Parts prices are easy to get. Just call a main dealer.
 
Hi everyone.

To dig up an old thread, I'm tempted to look at/purchase an E-class estate 2002-2009 models.

However, a lot of the reasonably priced ones seem to have 7G-tronic gearboxes and I've been reading up a lot about the issues with the valve bodies.

I don't mind repairing vehicles myself, and it doesn't look as though a valve body is too diffiult to remove. The cost for new ones or having one repaired seems very expensive though (i presume because they have to be recoded).

Is it possible to buy them ready coded and just swop the units over?
 
As ever, there can be differing issues and hence resolutions.

My understanding is that the most common issue with the 7G box is the failure of the electrical control plate inside the gearbox, usually due to loss of contact with the input speed sensor.

There are 3 versions of the valve body and plate: VGS, VGS2 and VGS3. The WIS/EPC data card usually shows which version a particular car has. I think upto 2005 are VGS, 2006-7 are VGS2 and 2008 onwards are VGS3.

The 'plate' issue seems to affect VGS and VGS2 only, VGS3 seem clear (probably Siemens fixed them by then).

I understand plate failure in a VGS version requires a new valve body as well as a new plate, but failure in a VGS2 version just requires a new plate.

At some time in the mid 2000s, MB declared this plate to be 'theft relevant', requiring coding to the car on replacement. Certainly my 2006 CLK had be coded when it had its plate replaced last year. Although others on this forum mention coding is not required for earlier cars

The Bulgarian electronics firm mentioned in the posts above seem to be still around, and by repairing your own plate, thus avoiding coding to the car, is a lot cheaper than a new plate.

The 'jerky' changes are often cured by replacing the ATF fluid and ensuring the latest gearbox software updates have been applied.

Best recommendation then is to look for a 2008 onwards car and ask for the gearbox software to be updated as part of the purchasing negotiation.
 
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/205247-7g-valve-block-replaced.html

Just to add, no error codes for the first year?

Also Read post 35...
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engi...late-permanently-limp-mode-3.html#post2280377

One thing i will say is that if the later 7g plus is a better driver i do not know in what way as since i had mine done by Olly i don`t know it has gears as it is always in the correct one for the load and throttle position and can hardly detect a change what ever i do whether casually or really flat out motoring.

For those that say they had their box repaired and it is still the same just pay out the money and get it done at a proper indy...
 
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My 7G had its software updated last year when recoded for the new plate. As with KeithJG's box, it's now extremely smooth changing.
 
There is a very good company in wallasey called valve bodys uk and have a test rig to run up and test most auto valve bodys. Iv used them and can say they are very good and excellent value for money.
 
I get this same 2nd to 1st gear Jerk on the 2006 W211 7G.

...only when car is cold though. Once warm or peak temp smooth as silk.

Been trying to figure what this is for sometime now.

Software reset by MB
ATF change

..No joy!

Hello,
I wonder if you ever got to the end of this gear changing problem....
 
Well the threadstarter has got the dreaded 722.9 box problems,one of the posters has pointed out the Bulgarian company who can fix the speed plate,they use your own part and diagnose the problem and repair it,as it is your plate coded to your car it does not need star coding,they seem to return the speed plate in a week,we do have people in this country who can test and repair them there is one in Liverpool which has a good reputation,I am nearly at the point of using a local mechanic to send my plate to Bulgaria I have no fault codes but the car is not happy at 30 mph sometimes it is in 6th gear when the revs say it should be in 7th and of course the kick up the backside when cold and changing down from 2nd to first,I have lost patience with indys and main dealers the good old local mechanic can have the job,I have listened to all the B--s--t from the supposed top people.my s320 has 80,000 on the clock a complete joke.
 
I have the Rough shift from 1st to 2nd in my 2008 ML320cdi. I am not looking forward to spending another 3 grand on this car as its throwing good money after bad. Our family have bought MB cars for over 30 years now and its the same old thing, pay a fortune get nothing for a trade in and when a known Mercedes design fault like this valve body raises its ugly expensive head on a car with 100 000kms on it the "stealership" make sure they rip you off to the max. I put it to the arrogant ****holes at Mercedes benz, if you dont wear your problems and create a win win situation for your customers the 3 pointed star name you have won't sell your cars for much longer. I only wish I got rid of this car after spending 2k on a waterlogged rear SAM unit last month,another known exploited issue on the ML. I will be buying a Toyota Landcruiser the minute this POS is back to a sellable state.
 

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