A Class 190 L - W168

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iDigit

New Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2019
Messages
1
Location
Switzerland
Car
W168 - A Class 190 L
Hello,

I am not a mechanic. I have basic, rudimentary understanding. I drive a MB A-Class 190 L - W168. First put into circulation 22.04.2004. Current mileage 197 000 KM. Since 1999, I have driven various MB Class A ( A140, A160 ) and also a MB Vaneo 190. I feel the design of this car is pure genius - besides it is one of the only cars I have driven without suffering tremendous back ache.

I have a light on the dash that lights up from time to time - BAS ESP. It only comes on when I do "sudden" pull-away or "sudden" accelerations. When this happens, the revs are capped and speed is also capped to 50 km/h. I have to gear down to 3rd as the car wont accelerate in a higher gear. To reset this I have to pull over, switch off the ignition and restart. In normal circumstances this is more an annoyance than anything else but on overtaking slower vehicles this can be potentially dangerous as I have to immediately engage the clutch and slow to 50km/h, then slow down further to stop.

As mentioned before, I am not a mechanic. I want to fix this but do not know what I am up against. I cannot afford to take it to a repair shop because I never get a straight answer (not to mention all the "additional costs") and any MB dealership is going to want me to pay a packet to repair this (not to mention all the "additional costs"). This is simply way beyond my means. I want to know what is going on, and perhaps how to go about repairing this myself. A big ask in my opinion, but not being able to afford a professional repair, I need to find another solution as I cannot afford to buy another car. Besides, I really like this car. It has a low mileage for a vehicle that is almost 15 years old, the interior is immaculate, and the body work is in excellent condition. I firmly believe I can get another good 200 000 km out of this car.

I would love to be able to recondition the motor but am faced with the same problem mentioned before, and here in Switzerland, most garages will tell me to sell and get another car, so finding a repair shop that will recondition the vehicle will not only be difficult, but it will cost me a kidney or two.

I would appreciate any assistance in this matter.

Best regards

iDigit
 
It may be worthwhile to buy an OBD s an tool such as the icarsoft980
Or the icarsoft MB2, around £100/ €120. This can allow you to diagnose items via the onboard system.
(And reset fault codes which may be historical, to see if they re-occur)

You may have an issue with a wheel speed sensor, or corrosion on the disc that the sensor acts on. (So the signals do not match, and safety means power is reduced; which is reset when car gets switched off/on)
 
I have a light on the dash that lights up from time to time - BAS ESP. It only comes on when I do "sudden" pull-away or "sudden" accelerations. When this happens, the revs are capped and speed is also capped to 50 km/h. I have to gear down to 3rd as the car wont accelerate in a higher gear. To reset this I have to pull over, switch off the ignition and restart.

The above sounds like traction control (one part of the ABS, BAS, ESP, etc safety suite) kicking in - but it should immediately reset ie full power restored as soon as traction is regained (read: wheel at expected speed).

A faulty brake switch can disable the safety systems leaving the dash lights on (functioning brake lights not a test of switch functionality as switches frequently have doubled up contact sets).
Tyre mismatches (pressure and size) can cause unnecessary ESP, ABS, TC, etc interventions but will immediately clear. Corroded reluctor (ABS) rings can do the same.

I'd check the tyres first, then reluctor rings and brake switch (if easily accessed though I don't think it is the source of your problem). If nothing amiss there - some electronic glitch for which some code reading is probably required. If it is a CANbus car - any amount of odd things can occur from the most unlikely source eg, transmission malfunctioning when an incorrect tail lamp bulb is fitted or a correct one badly fitted.
 
The cheapest solution would be to buy one of the OBD2 Bluetooth scanners (look at Amazon or eBay) which paired with your phone and app would read the fault codes. In that way you will get an idea at least where is the fault and what might be causing it so you can start from there.
 
The cheap obd2 readers aren’t as good interrogating and getting the correct code as icarsoft units designed for MB, they often will give a ‘generic’ code, whereas the optimised units can narrow things down further. (Plus you have to be able to identify generic codes to MB specifics).
 
I'm a huge fan of these W168s having also owned 4 of the things.
The replies already put forward are basically what I would suggest also.
I hope you get it sorted, lovely cars. Our first one was a 190.
 
I'm a huge fan of these W168s having also owned 4 of the things.
The replies already put forward are basically what I would suggest also.
I hope you get it sorted, lovely cars. Our first one was a 190.
 
The cheap obd2 readers aren’t as good interrogating and getting the correct code as icarsoft units designed for MB, they often will give a ‘generic’ code, whereas the optimised units can narrow things down further. (Plus you have to be able to identify generic codes to MB specifics).
Agree with you but the OP is looking for cheap solution of his problem so splashing out 100+ CHF is probably something he want to avoid.
At least we can give him some options to chose from. :)
 
Intermittent unnecessary operation of safety systems (eg TC, ESP, etc) do not generate codes. Eg, there is no code for one tyre larger than another.
 

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