A different approach to rusty arches-Advice

Discussion in 'Bodywork' started by reflexboy, Aug 7, 2011.

  1. reflexboy

    reflexboy Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    The time has come to sort out my arches on the SL. I have read with interest Malcolm's post on 'the other side' about Hammeriting the arches and using the Mini gutter trim to protect them once treated. I bought various types of this guter trim and feel it may not stay on very well. I also want a slightly wider protection than the width this will provide.

    SO-
    I am thinking of rubbing down the rusty areas, treating with Bilt Hamber Deox Gel, then zinc coating with BH Electrox. After that I want to apply some stone chip coating giving the rubberised orange peel finish before finally coating with top coat and clear laquer.

    Questions are:

    1/ Can I spray Electrox straight onto the clean, bare metal that I have used the Deox Gel on and the areas that still have paint on on the arch lip?

    2/ Once the Elecrox is on, do I then spray on stonechip paint or do I need to prime over the Electrox first?

    3/ Once the stonechip is on, can I go ahead and topcoat, or does this need a primer first?

    Once the stonechip, topcoat, clearcoat etc are done I will treat the non visable parts of the arches with Waxoyl. (with liner removed)

    Any hints, tips and advice greatly appreaciated. Thanks-Jim
     
  2. martyz

    martyz Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    respectfully suggest you cut the rust out. weld in new metal or complete arch prime. paint
    and clearcoat for a proper job,by all means Waxoyl non visible areas as its good stuff!

    regards martin
     
  3. KillerHERTZ

    KillerHERTZ Administrator Staff Member

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    I would avoid using TV's method personally.

    Remove the wing from the car and angle-grid it out.
     
  4. OP
    OP
    reflexboy

    reflexboy Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Karl-I can't remove the wing as it's the rear and it's not bolted. The rust is very minor and I think only on the surface. One question: once the affected areas are rubbed down and the rust removed, do I just spray the hammerite over it would it be better to use a primer first?
     
  5. Druk

    Druk Administrator Staff Member

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    POR15 is infinitely better than Hammerite. And forget the Mini plastic wheeltrim. Trap more mud and dirt and really encourage the rust? I think not. Much better access to the inside of the arches can be got by removing the tank bulkhead wall. A bit of a faff of a job but worth it.

    POR-15 products from Holden Vintage & Classic
     
  6. 312 Sprinter

    312 Sprinter Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Personally I wouldn't touch POR with the proverbial barge pole on any outside surface of a car. The most I'd use it for is painting a surface rusty suspension arm.

    In essence rust prevention is really simple; all you need to do is stop moisture and oxygen from sound steel and it won't corrode.

    I'd clean back to bare metal. Bilt Hamber Deox Gel is good. Then prime with good quality epoxy primer. On the inside where it doesn't show use a zinc rich primer.

    Coat the inside of the arch with Bilt Hamber Dynax cavity wax.
     
  7. NW_Merc

    NW_Merc Banned

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    If its only a small spot of rust use a dremel to grind out all the rusty metal. For a larger area use an angle grinder. I will be using Karl's method to sort out my passenger side front wing, I've also go the advantage of my car being white so not that difficult to colour match.
     
  8. DSM10000

    DSM10000 MB Club Veteran

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    I started on my W203 rear arches yesterday..

    There was just minor surface pitting but a couple of larger patches and also two behind the off side damper where the paint had flaked off either side.

    I took off the wheel arch liners (very easy, five 10mm nuts and 2 clips but the clips can stay as there is room top bend it all back if careful.) I then hosed out the inner arch areas that were full of old mud etc then rubbed down any rusty areas with 80 grade abrasive then moved to 120, 800 and 1200 to flatten it all down, then applied Ku-rust to all bare metal and and also inside the arch lips and finally used Bilt Hamber Dynax cavity wax inside the arches themselves and then sprayed it in the door cavities, boot lid and bonnet.

    A bit messy as a lot of it runs out but I got fluid running out of all the door bottom drain holes so hopefully a good internal covering resulted from this.. I am going to apply, by roller some Hammerite anti-rust primer then grey primer and topcoat when I get time but will also give another quick coat of Ku-rust first.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2011
  9. mikebeturbo1

    mikebeturbo1 New Member

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    Hi dsm10000
    What year is your w203 ?,mines an 03 and starting to go rusty on the n/s/r arch , wich I was shocked a such a young car:confused:
    Cheers
    Mike
     
  10. DSM10000

    DSM10000 MB Club Veteran

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    Mike:

    Firstly welcome.

    Mine is a 2003 model as well. Both rear arches had rust but not that extensive so hopefully caught in time,
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2011
  11. eundaddy

    eundaddy Member

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    i believe druk is right, i've used por15 on 90's hondas and they work great.
     

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