Hello
There has been alot of talk about what is the best route to go down, when it comes to long term protection. whether its a brand new car or your pride and joy that you just want to keep the best condition possible. Now natural canauba waxes and sealants are great. selants are brilliant for there durability and ease of use and will give upto around 6 months protection on a daily driver. Waxes can be just as good but can be quite alot more in terms of prices. This is due to the price of carnauba and its natural extracts which are perfect for automobile paint. But if you want something that lasts it can cost quite a bit. Alot of my customers with there supercars will always choosen natural waxes as too perfect paint, they do look alot better in warm and depth then what a sealant can attract. But then these cars are use for sunny days and weekends, so is well worth the extra cash when involved in full paint correction and restoration. But what about the guys that love there cars but are used on a daily basis. These need something with the best durability and finish that will stay there for thousands of miles. Well now these protections are now widely accessible and come in the form of quartz composite laquer's.
Quartz composite laquer is a product that actually swaps part of its molecular structure with the molecules on the paints surface. By doing this, it actually becomes the active surface of your vehicle, therefore stronger then the 'physical bond' you recieve from... a polymer sealant. Along with this you get a crystalline film bonding to the surface, which will help light swirls and marring, and a biomimetic surface that mimics the repellency a lotus plant has against water.
This is your perfect answer for a car to stay perfect for thousands of miles and actually do what they say on the tin. But after alot of experience with these products it is a 'must' to have the paint perfect, or at least at a level you are very happy with. I say this, because as soon as these products are graced upon your paint, they are very hard to remove in the first year. So if applied to a serface with swirls marks, holograms etc, these defects will be staying and will not be removed eaily with a quartz laquer attached to them. This is why its a great time to put these protections to action on a new car. After alot of experience, no new car is perfect but 9/10 they will only need to be corrected with a single stage correction process which is easier then your 3-4 stage correction processes. But this does not rule out all the guys with older cars then have seen the miles and are looking a little tired.
That is why I have decided to show you a 2006 Audi S4 that I recently detailed. I know this is not a mercedes but i think after this write up it will help you guys decide on the best way around this process, if its worth while, and how much work really goes into applying these products the right way. Below is the car in question on arrival. The guy had heard and seen G-techniq products in action from myself before and was completely amazed. He knew this was the only road to go down on his daily driver that he had newly purchased. But he knew the car was covered in swirls, holograms and rds's from the previous owner. I would just like to make it clear that the new owner has always keeped his cars in top shape so to him swirls and holograms etc were highly eye catching to him, and had to be removed. As with all quartz laquer details, I always tell my clienst its pointless to apply to car that needs paint correction as seems a waste of money for the client. After a meeting he decided he wanted the entire car brought back to what it was like from the showrrom and further if possible. This is the car on delivery prior to a mini restoration detail:
This was the only wheel that was not in need of a refurb, so will be fully removed and given a full wheels off detail including G-techniq C5 quarts laquer.
Heavy milky oxidation to all brushed alluminium from TFR used at your local eastern europeon hand car wash:
Exhaust looking pretty tired:
and onto the heavy swirls and rds's:
As the wheels were being removed for refurb, I went straight onto cleaning the door and boot shuts. I hadnt used this shampoo before so thought I would give it a whirl! This was mixed in a bucket and surfex was sprayed into the shuts. This was left for 3 minutes, aggitated with a swissvax detailing brush and then rinsed with ph neutral water in a watering can. I always used rinsing water in a watering can for shuts as its easy to control flow rate. Therefore not spraying water all in the interior:
Once completed, the petrol cap was treated in the same manor:
Then the grille:
and then lower grille:
Once this was completed the car was given a thorough snowfoam.
The car was then rinsed, washed using the two bucket method including the removal of algia on the roof. Once washed the car was brought in, dried with a 70/30 towel and warm air blower to ensure a completely dry car. The car was then placed on axel stands and wheels were removed for refurb. As said one wheel was fine so the rest were sent of to my trusted friends at lepsons. You would think it would be difficult to colour match the 3 refurbed wheels to the wheel that didnt need refurbing. But after some tlc on the original wheel you will see later that its pretty much impossible to notice
The paint and windows were then clayed with dodo juice gentle grey and megs last touch. The car was then given a full ipa wipedown to remove all silicone from the paint to ensure a true finish. Now ready full paint correction:
Now it was time to remove all those defects from the paint, ready for the G-techiq quartz laquer's. At this stage I would like to say that this was the hardest laquer I have ever work on. All paints change in levels of soft, hard, sticky etc. But even makes and models can change between themselves. Audi is know to be hard like mercedes and bmw, but this audi was like concrete. The machine stage alone took 22 hours in labour:0 This was the bonnet before:
a rubbish 50/50 from the bonnet:
Bonnet after:
Drivers front wing before:
Drivers front wing after:
Passenger front wing corrected:
Front bumper corrected. The marks around the halogen to the right are not in the bumper. They are the reflection of the halogen light housing
Part two, just coming.....
There has been alot of talk about what is the best route to go down, when it comes to long term protection. whether its a brand new car or your pride and joy that you just want to keep the best condition possible. Now natural canauba waxes and sealants are great. selants are brilliant for there durability and ease of use and will give upto around 6 months protection on a daily driver. Waxes can be just as good but can be quite alot more in terms of prices. This is due to the price of carnauba and its natural extracts which are perfect for automobile paint. But if you want something that lasts it can cost quite a bit. Alot of my customers with there supercars will always choosen natural waxes as too perfect paint, they do look alot better in warm and depth then what a sealant can attract. But then these cars are use for sunny days and weekends, so is well worth the extra cash when involved in full paint correction and restoration. But what about the guys that love there cars but are used on a daily basis. These need something with the best durability and finish that will stay there for thousands of miles. Well now these protections are now widely accessible and come in the form of quartz composite laquer's.
Quartz composite laquer is a product that actually swaps part of its molecular structure with the molecules on the paints surface. By doing this, it actually becomes the active surface of your vehicle, therefore stronger then the 'physical bond' you recieve from... a polymer sealant. Along with this you get a crystalline film bonding to the surface, which will help light swirls and marring, and a biomimetic surface that mimics the repellency a lotus plant has against water.
This is your perfect answer for a car to stay perfect for thousands of miles and actually do what they say on the tin. But after alot of experience with these products it is a 'must' to have the paint perfect, or at least at a level you are very happy with. I say this, because as soon as these products are graced upon your paint, they are very hard to remove in the first year. So if applied to a serface with swirls marks, holograms etc, these defects will be staying and will not be removed eaily with a quartz laquer attached to them. This is why its a great time to put these protections to action on a new car. After alot of experience, no new car is perfect but 9/10 they will only need to be corrected with a single stage correction process which is easier then your 3-4 stage correction processes. But this does not rule out all the guys with older cars then have seen the miles and are looking a little tired.
That is why I have decided to show you a 2006 Audi S4 that I recently detailed. I know this is not a mercedes but i think after this write up it will help you guys decide on the best way around this process, if its worth while, and how much work really goes into applying these products the right way. Below is the car in question on arrival. The guy had heard and seen G-techniq products in action from myself before and was completely amazed. He knew this was the only road to go down on his daily driver that he had newly purchased. But he knew the car was covered in swirls, holograms and rds's from the previous owner. I would just like to make it clear that the new owner has always keeped his cars in top shape so to him swirls and holograms etc were highly eye catching to him, and had to be removed. As with all quartz laquer details, I always tell my clienst its pointless to apply to car that needs paint correction as seems a waste of money for the client. After a meeting he decided he wanted the entire car brought back to what it was like from the showrrom and further if possible. This is the car on delivery prior to a mini restoration detail:
This was the only wheel that was not in need of a refurb, so will be fully removed and given a full wheels off detail including G-techniq C5 quarts laquer.
Heavy milky oxidation to all brushed alluminium from TFR used at your local eastern europeon hand car wash:
Exhaust looking pretty tired:
and onto the heavy swirls and rds's:
As the wheels were being removed for refurb, I went straight onto cleaning the door and boot shuts. I hadnt used this shampoo before so thought I would give it a whirl! This was mixed in a bucket and surfex was sprayed into the shuts. This was left for 3 minutes, aggitated with a swissvax detailing brush and then rinsed with ph neutral water in a watering can. I always used rinsing water in a watering can for shuts as its easy to control flow rate. Therefore not spraying water all in the interior:
Once completed, the petrol cap was treated in the same manor:
Then the grille:
and then lower grille:
Once this was completed the car was given a thorough snowfoam.
The car was then rinsed, washed using the two bucket method including the removal of algia on the roof. Once washed the car was brought in, dried with a 70/30 towel and warm air blower to ensure a completely dry car. The car was then placed on axel stands and wheels were removed for refurb. As said one wheel was fine so the rest were sent of to my trusted friends at lepsons. You would think it would be difficult to colour match the 3 refurbed wheels to the wheel that didnt need refurbing. But after some tlc on the original wheel you will see later that its pretty much impossible to notice
The paint and windows were then clayed with dodo juice gentle grey and megs last touch. The car was then given a full ipa wipedown to remove all silicone from the paint to ensure a true finish. Now ready full paint correction:
Now it was time to remove all those defects from the paint, ready for the G-techiq quartz laquer's. At this stage I would like to say that this was the hardest laquer I have ever work on. All paints change in levels of soft, hard, sticky etc. But even makes and models can change between themselves. Audi is know to be hard like mercedes and bmw, but this audi was like concrete. The machine stage alone took 22 hours in labour:0 This was the bonnet before:
a rubbish 50/50 from the bonnet:
Bonnet after:
Drivers front wing before:
Drivers front wing after:
Passenger front wing corrected:
Front bumper corrected. The marks around the halogen to the right are not in the bumper. They are the reflection of the halogen light housing
Part two, just coming.....
