Dieselman
Banned
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2003
- Messages
- 34,199
- Car
- Peugeot 403 Convertible
Over the last two afternoons I've completed a couple of jobs I have been meaning to do for a while.
Job number one was to change the differential driveshaft seals as the o/s one was slightly wet (not enough to call leaking but I hate oil leaks), job number two was to change the power steering fluid.
I actually started the diff seals job about two months ago but was defeated due to not having a short extension bar for the socket to undo the driveshaft flange bolts. Due to poor access on the n/s because of the exhaust you need a 3" extension to get in there whilst still presenting the socket straight onto the bolts. Not having this to hand nearly stripped the head of one of the bolts so I gave up until I had the right extension.
The job isn't difficult just time consuming. Start by undoing the drive shaft flanges then the prop shaft flex disk, then place a jack under the diff and undo the forward support bolt and the two rear ones.
Place the differential on a bench and remove the backplate bolts and knock off the backplate.
At this point I was surprised how much black dirt there was inside the differential, especially as I had changed the oil at the first attempt to remove it. The new oil came out very dark so I have cleaned out the casing and refilled with new oil.
The backplates are gasketless with the old style fully machined ones using blue Hylomar as a seal and the later unmachined ones using Loctite for the seal.
To remove the drive flanges you need to remove two circlips on the inner ends then withdraw the flanges. A bent allen key and pliers pulled with a strong grip worked here.
Prise out the old seals and press in new ones. Unscrew the breather and flush clean.
I refilled the oil with synthetic hypoid oil, whilst the differential was on the bench as it can be poured in the breather hole and is easier to check the level properly.
I didn't do the pinnion seal as that has been done previously and was not wet, and can be done on the car.
Job number two, changing the PS fluid was a lot easier.
Remove the undertrays and crack free the two unions just above the crossmember on the n/s of the car. The bolts are 19mm on the high pressure pipe and 22mm on the low pressure return. Make sure you counterhold the unions with a 14mm spanner.
With the oil leaking out turn the steering from lock to lock to empty the rack.
Once all the oil has gone tighten up the unions and refil the reservoir.
Start the engine and keep turning lock to lock to purge air, keep refilling the reservoir.
I can detect a slight reduction in hydraulic drag in the steering as well as prolonging the life of the steering components and differential.
Neither item is covered at any service but is well worth doing. I recommend them to be done at 60k miles.
Both jobs are within the reach of a competant DIYer.
Sorry no pics, I just wanted to get the jobs done.
Job number one was to change the differential driveshaft seals as the o/s one was slightly wet (not enough to call leaking but I hate oil leaks), job number two was to change the power steering fluid.
I actually started the diff seals job about two months ago but was defeated due to not having a short extension bar for the socket to undo the driveshaft flange bolts. Due to poor access on the n/s because of the exhaust you need a 3" extension to get in there whilst still presenting the socket straight onto the bolts. Not having this to hand nearly stripped the head of one of the bolts so I gave up until I had the right extension.
The job isn't difficult just time consuming. Start by undoing the drive shaft flanges then the prop shaft flex disk, then place a jack under the diff and undo the forward support bolt and the two rear ones.
Place the differential on a bench and remove the backplate bolts and knock off the backplate.
At this point I was surprised how much black dirt there was inside the differential, especially as I had changed the oil at the first attempt to remove it. The new oil came out very dark so I have cleaned out the casing and refilled with new oil.
The backplates are gasketless with the old style fully machined ones using blue Hylomar as a seal and the later unmachined ones using Loctite for the seal.
To remove the drive flanges you need to remove two circlips on the inner ends then withdraw the flanges. A bent allen key and pliers pulled with a strong grip worked here.
Prise out the old seals and press in new ones. Unscrew the breather and flush clean.
I refilled the oil with synthetic hypoid oil, whilst the differential was on the bench as it can be poured in the breather hole and is easier to check the level properly.
I didn't do the pinnion seal as that has been done previously and was not wet, and can be done on the car.
Job number two, changing the PS fluid was a lot easier.
Remove the undertrays and crack free the two unions just above the crossmember on the n/s of the car. The bolts are 19mm on the high pressure pipe and 22mm on the low pressure return. Make sure you counterhold the unions with a 14mm spanner.
With the oil leaking out turn the steering from lock to lock to empty the rack.
Once all the oil has gone tighten up the unions and refil the reservoir.
Start the engine and keep turning lock to lock to purge air, keep refilling the reservoir.
I can detect a slight reduction in hydraulic drag in the steering as well as prolonging the life of the steering components and differential.
Neither item is covered at any service but is well worth doing. I recommend them to be done at 60k miles.
Both jobs are within the reach of a competant DIYer.
Sorry no pics, I just wanted to get the jobs done.
