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mikec32

Active Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2011
Messages
897
Car
Mercedes C32 AMG
Hi Guys
There has been quite a bit of bad press in the detailing section, so I hope no one sees me putting this detail up as bad taste. As I have stated before I only put my details up for the passion I have for my job as well as be as informal as possible about what I have done. This way members on here may be able to benefit from information that might help them. As well as keep their cars in top shape in the future. Also I post work here because a lot of my friends are on this site and like I have said before, I see mbclub as my ‘home’ site.
This detail was this week’s job for me and what a job it was. When the client contacted me I came and viewed the car prior to booking. He told me that the paint was looking very dull and that when he washed it you could see a lot of swirl marks etc. The sun wasn’t out that day so around the car I went with the sun gun and pdg. Paint levels were healthy as of any standard paint on Audi’s and under the sun gun the car was covered from head to foot in swirls. Now this job I know from experience, could have been completed in 3 days but I booked it over 5 days as I had to be on another job in the late afternoons of this week.
Well Monday came and it was time to start this R8 and bring it back to its former glory (or as near too) as this was not a restoration correction. This was the car on arrival.
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To start with, was the wheel and arches. The arches and tyres were sprayed with Megs all purpose cleaner and agitated with appropriate brushes. The wheels were sprayed with bilberry wheel cleaner, left to dwell for 30 seconds and agitated with wheel woollies. The wheels, tyres and arches were then thoroughly rinsed with the jest washer. After this the wheels still had quite a bit of heavy baked on brake dust and contaminants. So out with the iron x to sort that problem out once and for all. This product is fantastic and can’t praise it enough on removing metal fillings and heavy contaminants.

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After the wheels, the car was given thorough snow foam through the lance and left to dwell for 5 minutes to loosen the heavy grime. This is a much safer method then just rinsing and then straight onto washing. By removing the heavy contaminants you will put less marring into the paintwork. Also try to snow foam not in direct sunlight. If you do and don’t end up claying you will find the degreasers will bake onto the lacquer and can be very ugly indeed! The car was then washed using the 2bm and dodo juice supernatural shampoo. I luurrve Dodo Juice shampoos and though born to be mild is the best on the market (imho) supernatural is great to use if your washing in direct sun. I find this is because supernatural doesn’t produce lots of foam and unnecessary detergents that aren’t needed and just add to suds that going to bake onto the paintwork. The top half of the car was washed using a wookie mitt and the lower half was washed with a waschpudel. This way you’re never cross contaminating your mitts and when it comes to cleaning your next car the top half mitt will have last week’s grit in it!!You have been warned!!
Once given a thorough was I began to see the horror story that lay before me. The car had typical signs of a life in an automatic car wash. The front half of the car was covered in tightly clustered swirls made up of rds, trails and heavy swirls and as you made your way to the back, lots of swirls made up of a lot of deep scratches and rds’s. I knew then this was going to be fun as like all VAG paint is quite hard indeed. This is where this detail becomes relevant as the finish on this Audi will be very similar to what you find on your Mercedes Benz.
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So into the garage and was time to dry! The car was first dried with an ultra plush drying towel and then all gaps, shuts badges, grilles, arches, tyres and wheels were dried with a warm air blower. If you can afford one I highly recommend it, as it will remove all water from all gaps leaving nothing in its wake.
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Once dried the car was clayed with dodo juice gentle grey and Meg’s quick detailer. They do make aggressive clay called ‘purposeful purple’ but this would only be needed on a car or vehicle that had some heavy contaminants such as algae.
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The car was the given a thorough ipa wipe down to remove clay sling and any oils and silicones that may be in the paint so that I can see what this cars true finish was. Here are a couple of pictures after this step.
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Now it was time to start paint correcting! Due to the nature of paint hardness and level of defects, mixed up with what the client wanted to achieve. This car was most definitely going to need some serious compound, polishing and refining. Now I have always been an avid 3M polishing system user and have used it to great ability. But the turn of this year companies have taken a big leap in high end quality compounds and polishes. This has mainly been pioneered with Meg’s new microfiber system for the D.A. and for me; it’s got to be scholls concept range. The reasons being is that now both companies have built compounds and polishes that really have no silicone, create minimal dust and work under most temperatures. This means less IPA wipe downs in your sets, Porsche paints suddenly become less sticky due to minimal heat build up and my personal favourite.....I can still breathe at the end of the day instead of my lungs being covered in compound! The Scholl range really is amazing with phenomenal correcting rates in minimal time while still being on the safe side.
The car was compounded using a medium grade lake country wool pad (the white one) and Scholl S3 edition gold edition. The car was then polished (followed up) with Scholl s17+ on a yellow 3m polishing pad to remove any marks from the s3. But to be fair the S3 can be used as a once step compound! Yes that’s right a compound that doesn’t need refining. The main reason I followed up with s17+, was because the wool pad can leave some marks of its own such as holograms. Anyway here are some pictures of the correction stage.....
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A HD Video showing you a 50/50 of the bonnet after a ipa wipedown.
GemcleanDetail's Channel - YouTube


Bonnet after correction.

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Drivers front wing corrected.

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Front bumper corrected.

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Roof before correction.

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Drivers door pillar before correction.

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Pillar after correction.

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Drivers door after correction:

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Making sure all angles of the car are paint corrected.

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Drivers rear wing before correction. Remember this car is black. Thats how meny scratches there are on the rear wing. Unfortunately its hard to capture the true image on my compact.

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After correction:

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Boot lid 50/50

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Rear lenses before correction:

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Rear lenses after correction:

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The entire tailgate was by far, the worst area on the car. It was made up of nothing but deep scratches.

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Tailgate after correction:

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Once this labour of love was completed the car was taken outside for further snow foam and a thorough rinse to remove the light dusting of compound on the car. The car was then brought inside and completely dried using the warm air blower. This time I don’t need to involve a towel as the car has been polished so much 95% of the water just runs of the car. Once dried the car was the refined with a dual action polisher (Megs G220) and Chemical guy’s black light. This is a great glaze for black cars you guys which also has a sealant added in for a bit of protection. Great product for all you guys with black cars to use after every wash. Will help with holograms from the wash process and keep it glossy and protected.

Paintwork after refinement with Chemical Guys Black Light:

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Even a fruit fly came to gorge on the fruityness of Black light!

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The car was treated to its first layer of crystal rock and then left to cure over night.

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The next day the wheels were buffed down, and the werkstatts acrylic prime strong was applied as a pre wax cleaner for the wheels which is also a very good sealant. Then a single coat of swissvax autobahn was applied and left for 2 hours before removing residue. There are plenty of wheels sealants and waxes but for the most durable natural wheel wax, autobahn is by far the best. The car at this point was then given its second coat of crystal rock.

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The tyres were then treated to swissvax pneu as after a lot of testing over the years, this once most definitely last the longest. My work van matt tyre finish from the pneu has lasted 3 months now and that is used every day in all weather conditions.

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The glass was then gleaned with Meg’s glass cleaner on the inside and dodo juice supernatural glass polish on the outside. This at the moment is my most favourite glass polish as it leaves no smears or residue....as long as it’s applied properly.The glass was check through the sun gun for smears.

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So while the crystal rock was still curing nicely it was onto the finishing touches! All shuts and gaps were cleaned and polished with werkstatt, all plastic exterior trim was given a thorough IPA wipe down and the exhausts were polished with brilliant metal polish from the zeppelin range. The last coat of crystal rock was removed and then the car was taken outside for one hour to let the crystal rock set like concrete. Crystal rock is very expensive, very good, but needs to be applied the right way. Otherwise it will have the durability of turtle wax (not very long) you need between 12-24 hours between coats and then if the sun is out, let it bake in the sun. Do this and you really will get 12-14 months protection out of a natural wax with an awesome finish.

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Anyway this was also a good time to take final shots, so enjoy!!

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And just to finish it off, here is a HD video of the car in direct sunlight to get a true fill of its optimum finish.

Gemclean Detailing-26 Hour paint correction Detail-2008 Audi R8 - YouTube

This was no advertisement scheme to show who I am. Most people on here know who I am, and know I love showing what I do to cars. So I hope you enjoyed that long journey and I hope it help some of you on some products and at what stage to use them. Any questions as I am more then happy to give free, friendly advice on helping you look after your own cars.

Kind regards

Michael
 
Looks like a great job, but surprised you like the Pneu, I find although it leaves a great matt finish it only lasts a week or so on plastic.

S
 
How much does all that cost?

I keep seeing these detailing posts and no one ever seems to say what this kind of thing costs.

There's a weeks work there, so it must be the best part of £1000. In which case, would it not cost the same to be taken to a paintshop and be wet sanded or repolished?

Not a critism, genuine questions - I don't really "get" this detailling thing to be honest and I'm just curious if you'd get the same result by simply taking it to a bodyshop.
 
Very nice :)

How much does all that cost?

I keep seeing these detailing posts and no one ever seems to say what this kind of thing costs.

There's a weeks work there, so it must be the best part of £1000. In which case, would it not cost the same to be taken to a paintshop and be wet sanded or repolished?

Not a critism, genuine questions - I don't really "get" this detailling thing to be honest and I'm just curious if you'd get the same result by simply taking it to a bodyshop.


A bodyshop is what looks like made it a mess in the first place or a poor detailer. They can't replicate the same finish :thumb:
 
Looks like a great job, but surprised you like the Pneu, I find although it leaves a great matt finish it only lasts a week or so on plastic.

S


Hi there

PNEU is a tyre dressing and not a plastic restorer. I have only ever use it on tyres and out of about 10 I use I find this one works and lasts very well. Always make sure you degrease and scrub your tyre wall with a stiff brush. This will allow your tyre surface to be clean therefore allowing the dressing to attach itself much better. :thumb:
 
A bodyshop is what looks like made it a mess in the first place or a poor detailer. They can't replicate the same finish :thumb:

See it's this that puzzles me.

A detailer does a better job than a bodyshop?

Or are they simply doing different things altogether?

One of the other members on here took his brand new M3 to a bodyshop to be wet sanded and repolished. Is this not something a detailer can do or is it just a different way to do the same thing?
 
How much does all that cost?

I keep seeing these detailing posts and no one ever seems to say what this kind of thing costs.

There's a weeks work there, so it must be the best part of £1000. In which case, would it not cost the same to be taken to a paintshop and be wet sanded or repolished?

Not a critism, genuine questions - I don't really "get" this detailling thing to be honest and I'm just curious if you'd get the same result by simply taking it to a bodyshop.

Hello

The reason why we can not allow prices to be shown is because this would be shown as advertising. To wet sand a car to a detailers standard I believe you would be looking at around £4,000 mark. But is not an area I have ever covered as theres not a big enough market for it. But if this would be something your interested in, KDS in kent are the only guys to go to for wetsanding. They are the best! as for a body shop, the answer is simply no. The only bodyshops I have ever seen match my quality are KDS (as they spray as well as detail) and xquisite Automotive.

Kind regards

Mike
 
Really nice work,as an obvious perfectionist it must bug you that the brake discs rust in the
process.interesting post, thanks

Martyz
 
See it's this that puzzles me.

A detailer does a better job than a bodyshop?

Or are they simply doing different things altogether?

One of the other members on here took his brand new M3 to a bodyshop to be wet sanded and repolished. Is this not something a detailer can do or is it just a different way to do the same thing?


A normal paint shop(not all but most) where they just paint cars usually don't have the time to spend machine polishing the whole car, when they do it is rushed and makes buffer tails, those funny lines, what ever you want to call them in the paint. Just takes time and a little know how. I'm sure Detailed will explain more.

But yes a detailer would do a better job.
 
Really nice work,as an obvious perfectionist it must bug you that the brake discs rust in the
process.interesting post, thanks

Martyz

To put it plainly, yes, yes it does. But then if the owner colleted his car with no rust on the discs then i think he would be as little upset that I drove his car without permission.

So unfortunately it stays and if the cars completed over a few days the handbrakes left off.

Kind regards

Michael
 
excellent job, i have today done my first attempt at paint correction on a VW golf using meguiars 205 & 105 and am very happy with the results. What compounds would you decomend for doing the same job on a black CL55?

Thanks danny
 
Really nice work,as an obvious perfectionist it must bug you that the brake discs rust in the
process.interesting post, thanks

Martyz
 
excellent job, i have today done my first attempt at paint correction on a VW golf using meguiars 205 & 105 and am very happy with the results. What compounds would you decomend for doing the same job on a black CL55?

Thanks danny

Purchase the new scholl Concept range, which was what was used on this audi. Audi and Mercedes paint are very similar in hardness and these work wonders on VAG paint. Heres a link to a company that sells the three you would need in a nice combo pack!

Scholl Concepts Polish Sample Kit 250g - Elite Car Care

There 250 testers but you could paint correct about 4 to 5 cars with that amount. Plenty for you to get started and see iff you get on with them.:thumb:

Kind regards

Michael
 
Purchase the new scholl Concept range, which was what was used on this audi. Audi and Mercedes paint are very similar in hardness and these work wonders on VAG paint. Heres a link to a company that sells the three you would need in a nice combo pack!

Scholl Concepts Polish Sample Kit 250g - Elite Car Care

There 250 testers but you could paint correct about 4 to 5 cars with that amount. Plenty for you to get started and see iff you get on with them.:thumb:

Kind regards

Michael

Thanks Michael, much appreciated. :thumb:
 
Very nice post and fantastic results.

One question - the clay you showed in one of the photos was indicating a great deal of contamination that had been removed (TBH - I would been concerned if my clay got that bad, as you could be inflicting more damage to the paintwork by continuing to use it).

What are your thoughts on using products such as tardis to remove organic contaminants (tar + tree sap), and then using iron x / deironiser on the paintwork before clay?

I know you are correcting the paint after clay, so minor scratches are dealt with, but wouldn't using the above chemicals reduce your time and effort?
 
Very nice post and fantastic results.

One question - the clay you showed in one of the photos was indicating a great deal of contamination that had been removed (TBH - I would been concerned if my clay got that bad, as you could be inflicting more damage to the paintwork by continuing to use it).

What are your thoughts on using products such as tardis to remove organic contaminants (tar + tree sap), and then using iron x / deironiser on the paintwork before clay?

I know you are correcting the paint after clay, so minor scratches are dealt with, but wouldn't using the above chemicals reduce your time and effort?


Very nice post and fantastic results.

One question - the clay you showed in one of the photos was indicating a great deal of contamination that had been removed (TBH - I would been concerned if my clay got that bad, as you could be inflicting more damage to the paintwork by continuing to use it).

What are your thoughts on using products such as tardis to remove organic contaminants (tar + tree sap), and then using iron x / deironiser on the paintwork before clay?

I know you are correcting the paint after clay, so minor scratches are dealt with, but wouldn't using the above chemicals reduce your time and effort?

Hello

The clay would make no diffrence as it was folded over to a fresh side every panel on the car. This kept the clay clean to do it's job on the paint.

I use tardis and iron x and think they work very well. I use tardis on every job just after the wash process with a wet micro fibre. This will reduce marring when applying. Iron x I mainly use for really bad wheels. This is mainly because I clay cars after I have dried and iron x would use after claying. This way you will be able to pick up contaminants that the clay may of not picked up. So in a nut shell if I was to use iron x on paintwork 1: I need to apply on wet paintwork so would have the clay the car while it was wet from the washing process. 2:I would only use iron x if the paintwork was in a really bad state.


So as you can see I use both products on my details but not because it reduces my time and effort but because you need to use them as it's essential before machine polishing. If you didn't, these contaminants would get picked up by the machine pad and will start scratching clear coat as oppose to removing them.

Cheers Mike
 

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