A10D21 aircon code?

[ChrisHGTV]

Hi all

Does anyone know what this code means or how I can explore further - what I need to look for?

The aircon works but on a long drive seems to occasionally then blow warm for a bit.

The code is described as “The Power Supply is too low. The signal amplitude is less than the minimum amplitude”

Could it be the clutch slipping or something?

Many thanks!

 

[slade1]

Just take the car to aircon outfit, new gas required?

 

[ChrisHGTV]

Just take the car to aircon outfit, new gas required?

I could try an aircon place. I topped up the gas earlier this year but will check it. The aircon does work and blows cold most of the time, it’s weird it just seems to be on longer trips when it starts to work intermittently. And I can’t seem to find what this fault code might relate to.

 

[slade1]

When you get the aircon fixed use it all the time hopefully no more problems.
Aircon on my 05 CLK has never been repaired/re-gas.
I think I will get tested next year as I think the performance has dropped off a bit.

 

[ChrisHGTV]

When you get the aircon fixed use it all the time hopefully no more problems.
Aircon on my 05 CLK has never been repaired/re-gas.
I think I will get tested next year as I think the performance has dropped off a bit.

It is left on - i just set the climate to auto and leave it to do it's thing! Its worked fone for years but something's no quite right....cheers

 

[badgx]

@ChrisHGTV, did you get to the route cause? I now have the same code on mine. My A/C was regased at a local MOT garage and working last year.

Today got a code A10D21?

 

[ChrisHGTV]

@ChrisHGTV, did you get to the route cause? I now have the same code on mine. My A/C was regased at a local MOT garage and working last year.

Today got a code A10D21?

I did yes. I ended up replacing the aircon panel in the dash. I got a replacement off eBay. It was about £60 from memory. Quite easy to fit. I found a video on you tube. Mines a 2011 S212, not sure if yours would be different. But replacing the panel fixed the issue and it now blows icy cold consistently.

 

[badgx]

I did yes. I ended up replacing the aircon panel in the dash. I got a replacement off eBay. It was about £60 from memory. Quite easy to fit. I found a video on you tube. Mines a 2011 S212, not sure if yours would be different. But replacing the panel fixed the issue and it now blows icy cold consistently.

Glad to hear it's been sorted. Mines 2014, i will look on ebay too. I found some limited info on the Internet, it's also pointing towards control panel.

The advice was to check fuse 12 in the engine compartment and also check pin 14 and pin 16 at the rear of the aircon control panel for power and ground. I'm just going to pick one up from ebay and try.

I'll report back, once I find a control panel

Below is the info I found with regards to fuse 12, and also the advice regarding pin 14 and 16 .

 

[ChrisHGTV]

Glad to hear it's been sorted. Mines 2014, i will look on ebay too. I found some limited info on the Internet, it's also pointing towards control panel.

The advice was to check fuse 12 in the engine compartment and also check pin 14 and pin 16 at the rear of the aircon control panel for power and ground. I'm just going to pick one up from ebay and try.

I'll report back, once I find a control panel

Below is the info I found with regards to fuse 12, and also the advice regarding pin 14 and 16 .

View attachment 172953

Perfect! Yes I’m sure I found the same post about checking those fuses and pins. I remember checking the pins (it was difficult to get the probe tip to make contact) but can’t remember what reading I got. My issue was intermittent. In any case a new panel cured it! I also swapped over the piano black surround from the old to new. A bit fiddly but possible. The replacement panel I bought had a scratch. Good luck!

 

[Petrol Pete]

By 'Aircon panel' you guys are talking about this part ?

Not actual panel , generic photo here.

 

[badgx]

By 'Aircon panel' you guys are talking about this part ?

Not actual panel , generic photo here.

View attachment 172957

That's the one Pete. The E class ones are slightly different in design though

 

[ChrisHGTV]

This vid shows how to remove it on the 212. I swapped over the panel surround on mine so I kept my original one. I remember it was a real faff unless you have 6 hands! There are little clips you need to release all the way round but when you move to unclip the next one, one of the others clips back in. In the end I used slithers of matchsticks to wedge them open. Reinstalling was easy!

Removing climate panel

 

[Jobsworth]

Panel failure is thankfully rare, but it does occasionally happen. I have done only two in living memory, one in a W164 ML and one in a W212 E class. In both cases there was no supply to the compressor. All other checks came back fine, so it ended up being replacement panel. Like I say, it’s pretty rare.

 

[badgx]

I've ordered a panel from ebay, same sticker number from another w212 E63. Worth a try as I already checked fuse 12 and also 16. Couldn't find any relay for the A/C.

I also couldn't really check the pin at the rear of the control panel as they were un-numbered.

Panel should be on its way, wasn't too expensive, fingers crossed I report back once installed. Video was helpful, the screw holding the panel to the dash were torx head type

 

[badgx]

Okay just an update. The swap hasn't cured the problem. I've re plugged the iCarsoft and drilled into a few menus. I'm getting refrigerant pressure of 0.10 bar and zero current at the compressor.

The MOT garage who did the aircon recharge last MOT said there were no leaks showing up on their machine and when they charged it, it was blowing ice cold. There must be a leak then somewhere?

Would I be correct in saying if there was a leak somewhere, 9 out of 10, it would be leaking from the condenser as this is the weakest part and prone to impact etc.

My car has only covered 28k miles since new, and is used sparingly, still smells like a new car too.

Shall I change the condenser panel and then take it to a specialist for recharge with dye or shall I take direct for recharge and dye without changing the condenser?

 

[badgx]

Anyone got access to schematics of the aircon system for W212 M157 by any chance? Thanks in advance.

 

[Jobsworth]

Right, now you are showing no pressure in the system. That will probably be why it isn’t working. It could be a leak, or it could be a problem with the pressure sensor thats mounted low down below the condenser/radiator pack. Do change quite a few of them. It’s not best practice, but if you just very briefly press down on the low pressure filling port you will know if it has any pressure in there. 0.1 bar will be hardly anything. It should have at least 3 bar with the engine off. That’s pretty obvious when you press the valve. If it’s got pressure and the sensor says 0.1 bar, the sensor is bad. If it has no pressure you have a leak. Be aware, you shouldn’t knowingly vent an AC system to atmosphere. As a professional I have to draw your attention to that fact.

 

[badgx]

Right, now you are showing no pressure in the system. That will probably be why it isn’t working. It could be a leak, or it could be a problem with the pressure sensor thats mounted low down below the condenser/radiator pack. Do change quite a few of them. It’s not best practice, but if you just very briefly press down on the low pressure filling port you will know if it has any pressure in there. 0.1 bar will be hardly anything. It should have at least 3 bar with the engine off. That’s pretty obvious when you press the valve. If it’s got pressure and the sensor says 0.1 bar, the sensor is bad. If it has no pressure you have a leak. Be aware, you shouldn’t knowingly vent an AC system to atmosphere. As a professional I have to draw your attention to that fact.

Thank you Sir report back

 

[Jobsworth]

Christ Addis, the suspense is killing me here!

 

[badgx]

Bare with me friend, arriving home in the next hour. Got my fingers crossed, hoping it's that pressure switch.

Last night, I was thinking about how to by-pass the pressure switch for testing purposes. I guess if it's faulty, it'll will require re-gass after the switch is replaced?

Do you know if it's a 3 pin or 4 pin pressure switch? Am I correct in thinking the signal feed shouldn't be more than 5 volts?