Adjusting parking brakes on a '91 124 (estate)

[Will]

Hi everyone,

Following on from this thread:

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/general-discussion/72387-300te-124-1-year-mot-time.html

I need to service/adjust the parking brake on my 124 estate.

I'm assuming that they'll need adjusting, but am I likely to need new shoes or anything like that? Basically, there's quite a bit of slack in the system (parking brake pedal clicks down a fair old way) and they're only just biting - quite weak. Stretched cables? Worn shoes? What normally goes?

I'll have a look when I've finished work (or tomorrow if it's too late/raining) but I thought it'd be good to know if there's anything I might need before I start

I'll try and post a couple of photos up and a quick 'how to' guide for others later on if I can remember!

Will

 

[talbir]

Hi Will

You should be able to see worn shoes from the rear side of the hub, but removal of wheel, caliper and hub will reveal all.

Replacement of shoes is very straightforward although you need a bespoke tool to insert the shoe mechanism springs, can be done without but very fiddly.

Bu I'd start with simply trying to adjust the slack as it may resolve without replacement of shoes....remove one bolt on the wheel, jack up wheel, ensure out of gear and handbrake off, then turn wheel slowly with torch shining on hole, until you see a cog...with a long slim flat face screwdriver, flick the cog until rotation of wheel by hand gets less 'free' but not binding. Then apply park brake to see if there is less slack and good appllication. I usually find that with handbrake on, footbrake released,gearbox in 'D' or 'R' and throttle upto 1.3k revs, car should not budge.

An easier way is to check the 13mm bolt in centre of car underneath from where cables diverge to the rear wheels....tightening that bolt has the same effect of tightening shoes at cogs, although i prefer to have room for tightening at that point and ensure things are tight at the shoe cogs.

talbir

 

[Sp!ke]

Following on from Talbirs sound advice, my W124 is on the original handbrake shoes @ 200,000 miles and mines a manual box which means the handbrake does actually get used. They shouldnt wear much at all if the handbrake is used correctly.

 

[Will]

Cheers,

I'll have a look when I'm back home and see how I get on. Hopefully it'll just need adjusting up and it'll get me another ticket for the next 12 months

To be honest, the slightly weak parking brake hasn't really been an issue over the last year (especially being that it's an auto and just sits outside on a flat surface normally).

Will

 

[Donbronski]

Hi,

When adjusting the parking brake, (when off) the parking brake lever must be full against the stop plate - then the shoes should be adjusted up.

If you only adjust up the cable you will lose swing of the parking brake lever

Take Care

 

[Will]

Well I got home from work, and managed to dodge the pouring rain for a few minutes.

Removed one wheel bolt from each wheel, and jacked it up so both wheels were in the air.

Broke my torch (!) so had to use a different light. Rotated the wheels around and couldn't see the adjuster. I decided it would be quicker to remove one of the wheels (O/S/R) to enable me to see in better.

Finally found the adjuster and tried moving it. It moved one way, but was already firmly against it's end of travel it seems going the other way.

So - removed the caliper and disc to get a look inside. It looks as though the shoes have had it. They're all crumbling and worn, so I assume it's time for some new ones. Discs and pads are like new though, so that's a result

Only thing that I was unsure about was if they had been correctly fitted before? Basically the adjuster was pushed up against a spring inside, doesn't seem right to me. Photos not brilliant but maybe someone can advise?

So it looks like a trip to get some new shoes tomorrow then.

Will

 

[Donbronski]

The spring holds the adjustment, should sit between the notches on the adjuster so it don't wonder out of adjustment.

 

[Will]

Ah - of course, that makes perfect sense.

To be honest, the pouring rain was quite a distraction - I didn't look at it all too closely. Was just relieved when the disc finally came off and the shoes looked crumbly, so decided that I'd do it in the morning.

New set of shoes and then hopefully I can then adjust it back up to spec.

Any tips or things to be aware of when fitting the new ones?

Thanks,

Will

 

[Donbronski]

Wire brush the back plate & add small amounts of copper ease on the points where the shoes rest against the back plate.

Other than that make sure your cable is right back then adjust your shoes up.

Have fun.

Ken

 

[Will]

Well I went down to MB today and picked up a new set of shoes.

Comes as a kit with all the nice bits and pieces - all new springs, new adjuster, disc retaining bolt, new caliper bolts etc. Only £20, bargain

So, back home, jacked it up again, wheel/caliper/disc off. Old springs and shoes removed.

Started to reassemble the new bits and it's begun to pour down with rain again

Anyway, I'm having trouble getting the larger return spring fitted (the one near where the cable sits). Very strong spring for it's size, extremely difficult to stretch it out and then try and locate it at the same time. In fact, difficult to stretch it out at all!

I'm sure there must be a tool that can be used, a hook with a decent handle etc. But bearing in mind I don't have one, anyone got any other ideas?

Was hoping to have finished it off by now, but the troublesome spring + rain haven't been all that helpful.

I'm trying to think of what I can use to make a 'hook' type tool out of! If not, I'm wondering if it'd be easier to try and get the shoes in with the spring in first?! Then refit the adjuster and spring at the other side.

Will

 

[BlackC55]

Mb do a special tool for this. I have the part number at work. I will look monday if you want.

It is a handle with a hook and is excellent.

 

[Donbronski]

I use pin nose mole grips for thoughs springs (not the proper way, i know but works well)

I'd locate one end of the spring in then grip the spring "JUST ENOUGH" on the stem part then lever it across with my thumbs.

 

[Will]

All sorted now - thanks guys.

In the end, after nearly punching myself in the head a couple of times trying to use pliers etc (!), I managed to get the spring in by improvising.

Used a strong, small shafted screwdriver and basically lifted the end of the spring from undeneath with the end of the screwdriver slotted through through the locating hole where the spring normally sits.

Levering carefully with the end of the screwdriver poked through where I wanted the end of the spring to sit, I raised the screwdriver to tension the spring and let it slide down towards where it should sit.

Once the spring was nearly in place, I pushed it from the front and it popped in

All back together and adjusted up, works a treat.

Old shoes really were knackered, they'd worn down to the metal!

If the MB tool is cheap, I'll order one for the next time I need to do shoes - It'd make life so much easier.

Will