• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

Airmatic rise time

mr. shr

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 22, 2004
Messages
1,881
How long should it take for the airmatic system to raise the car? (W220)

Takes at least 5 mins on mine (maybe longer) and been told my pump is on its way out.
 
Takes about 5 seconds on my w211 - don't know if it is a different system or not.

Takes about 10 seconds to lower.

Does sound that something may be either leaking or not pumping? When it goes up- does it stay up?
 
Does sound that something may be either leaking or not pumping? When it goes up- does it stay up?

Think so. Not sure really as I've hardly used it. It doesn't really raise it that much thought, does it?
 
Nope, to test it - go from lowest setting directly to 'raised' setting

Mine takes about 8 seconds or so..
 
How long should it take for the airmatic system to raise the car? (W220)

Takes at least 5 mins on mine (maybe longer) and been told my pump is on its way out.

I've just had the pump replaced. Whilst the airmatic was rising and falling at the right speed it sounded like an angle grinder whilst doing it. It's party trick was running for 15 minutes after the car had stopped which was particularly appreciated by the neighbours at midnight the other day.
 
My Sclass takes about 5 seconds from switch activation to full height.
 
My Sclass takes about 5 seconds from switch activation to full height.

You're joking right?

If your car goes up that quickly then I defo need to get mine sorted.
(I assume when the screen no longer says 'Airmatic, Vehicle Rising' means that the car has reached full height?)

So other than the pump, what else should I be concerned about? How can I tell if the struts are damaged?
 
No - when it no longer says car rising it does not mean it has reached full height - mine takes a couple of seconds after this.
 
OK just had a quick go. Started car up and then hit the airmatic button.

Car rose in about 20 seconds or so.
Pump sounded a bit rattly but you can see that the car is raised.

I switched the car off with it still raised. Is it ok to do this or should I have lowered it before switching off?
I was thinking that if I look at the car in the morning:
still raised = no leaks
lowered = leaks

(Or does the car just discharge the air when switched off anyway?)
 
I think from memory that the car will not stay up unless its running... but cant be sure...

I was at auction today and there were two S500's, neither of their pumps were working properly... must be a common issue...
 
I was at auction today and there were two S500's, neither of their pumps were working properly... must be a common issue...

I believe the W220's are known for it.

Just had a quick look at the car and it's still raised. Was about an hour and a half ago that I raised it. If there were leaks, I would think the car would have lowered by now?
 
Had a look this morning and the car was still raised. So that means no leaks, right?

Started the car up and the little light in the Airmatic button came on. Does this suggest that struts are good and that sensors are correctly telling system that car is raised?

I've just had the pump replaced. Whilst the airmatic was rising and falling at the right speed it sounded like an angle grinder whilst doing it. It's party trick was running for 15 minutes after the car had stopped which was particularly appreciated by the neighbours at midnight the other day.

Now that you have a new pump is there any difference? (other than the noise it used to make)

People are talking of rise times of 5-10 secs. Is that when the car is in motion?

Last night, with the car parked up on the driveway it took about 30 secs to rise. But the other day whilst driving, it took ages to go up. I'm talking many many minutes.

Is the rise time whilst in motion the same as when stationary on your cars?
 
Normally a leak would take a few days to be noticable. If a leak is present its either a strut or the valve block. Ive never timed mine, but Ill have a look im sure its not as fast as 5sec.
 
Normally a leak would take a few days to be noticable. If a leak is present its either a strut or the valve block. Ive never timed mine, but Ill have a look im sure its not as fast as 5sec.

I'm sure I read that you've had big problems with your airmatic in the past.

A stealer has told me that the pump is on its way out. They say that the original pumps are mounted with metal rivets and they start to rust, causing a break in the seal and hence a leak.

Apparently the replacement pumps use plastic rivets and so they don't rust. Will cost about 350 all in to replace.
 
I'm sure I read that you've had big problems with your airmatic in the past.

A stealer has told me that the pump is on its way out. They say that the original pumps are mounted with metal rivets and they start to rust, causing a break in the seal and hence a leak.

Apparently the replacement pumps use plastic rivets and so they don't rust. Will cost about 350 all in to replace.

Ive had lots of problem with the car, the suspension issues were more to do with ball joints and bushes. Get it to a dealer and providing your car has a full history it might be worth asking them about a goodwill claim, it seems the w220 suffers from this and they might make a contribution.
 
Ive had lots of problem with the car, the suspension issues were more to do with ball joints and bushes. Get it to a dealer and providing your car has a full history it might be worth asking them about a goodwill claim, it seems the w220 suffers from this and they might make a contribution.

Stealer has already advised that pump is on its way out, but no mention of a good will gesture.
TBH, I'm happy to pay the 350 (believe it or not) but only if the airmatic is tip top afterwards.
I don't want to spend this money only to find out later that I need new struts etc. etc. and the original pump was fine afterall.

Think I'll give em a call and just get it booked in. Defo needs something doing, so might as well hand it over to them!!!
 
It is fine to leave the car raised for an indefinite period. I suggest you raise the car on a flat surface and take accurate measurements - the best would be to actually place objects (e.g. a cardboard box) next to each wheel and mark on the object the exact position of the wheelarch brow. I suggest this approach because it is not possible to take accurate measuments simply using a tape measure.

Leave the car for a minimum of a day but preferably longer. Observe any drop at any of the four corners. A drop indicates a leaky strut or valve block.

If there is no drop, use the objects to check that the car is being raised and lowered correctly on Sport II setting through to "raised". Each corner should drop 15mm for Sport II and rise 25mm for "raised" - though check your handbook for your figures.

Really, it should take no more than 30 seconds to go from Sport II to raised.

I did successfully recondition my BMW air pump - they are easy to take apart. I just drilled out the rivets and replaced with self-tapping screws. A motor engineer will be able to re-wire or re-bush it for less than £150 so there is a saving to be made by re-furbishing it yourself.

Philip
 
It is fine to leave the car raised for an indefinite period. I suggest you raise the car on a flat surface and take accurate measurements - the best would be to actually place objects (e.g. a cardboard box) next to each wheel and mark on the object the exact position of the wheelarch brow. I suggest this approach because it is not possible to take accurate measuments simply using a tape measure.

Leave the car for a minimum of a day but preferably longer. Observe any drop at any of the four corners. A drop indicates a leaky strut or valve block.

If there is no drop, use the objects to check that the car is being raised and lowered correctly on Sport II setting through to "raised". Each corner should drop 15mm for Sport II and rise 25mm for "raised" - though check your handbook for your figures.

Really, it should take no more than 30 seconds to go from Sport II to raised.

I did successfully recondition my BMW air pump - they are easy to take apart. I just drilled out the rivets and replaced with self-tapping screws. A motor engineer will be able to re-wire or re-bush it for less than £150 so there is a saving to be made by re-furbishing it yourself.

Philip

Thanks for that Philip, but I'm getting confused here.
I need to have another read of the manual. I thought the sport suspension button was completely separate to the airmatic system? My undersanding was that the button to the left of the airmatic is the ABC button (Is it Adaptive Body Control??) My thoughts were that is doesn't affect the height of the car, just the stiffness of the struts (regardless of airmatic setting).

I'm clearly missing something here and need to have a good look at the manual again. (BTW my ABC only has one LED in the button, not two like some models might)
 
Sorry, I should have said: I have an E Class. In the E, the sport II setting drops the car by 15mm even at rest. The "raise" button lifts the car by 25mm.

If the S-Class system is different, just check the handbook and make sure your car lifts and drops as it is supposed to.

I am guessing that the pump is a pretty standard design across all the cas - including BMW. Certainly, my MB pump looksvery similar to the BMW pump in my E39.

The lift and drop times are also fairly similar between the two makes so I don't see why the S-class shouldn't riase and drop just like an E Class or a BMW 5 Series.
 
Sorry, I should have said: I have an E Class. In the E, the sport II setting drops the car by 15mm even at rest. The "raise" button lifts the car by 25mm.

If the S-Class system is different, just check the handbook and make sure your car lifts and drops as it is supposed to.

I am guessing that the pump is a pretty standard design across all the cas - including BMW. Certainly, my MB pump looksvery similar to the BMW pump in my E39.

The lift and drop times are also fairly similar between the two makes so I don't see why the S-class shouldn't riase and drop just like an E Class or a BMW 5 Series.


Thanks for that.
I'll have a look at the book tonight.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom