am i going mad ?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

jonnyboy

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 27, 2005
Messages
2,564
Location
Camberley, Surrey
Car
1991 sl300-24 project,s124 280,w115 no interior, w108 project no engine
Used this weekend b4 my operation to swap engines in the sl. It's a 300-24valve. The replacement was a 300-24 out of a 124.
Turned out to be a PITA as the p/s pump/alternator bracketry etc all different. Had to swap sumps as when we'd put the replacement engine in my garage ages ago we holed the sump :(
Sump replaced, and we put the t/converter off the SL engine onto thenew engine. Turned it over as normal to get to the t/converter bolts. So I know it isn't seized.

Gearbox fitted and I noticed I need to change the crank pulley. Can't get it off (although I have sourced a longer power bar for later in the week). Since the engine has been turned the right way up, the gearbox fitted, and various ancilliaries changed, the engine is stuck/seized solid, and I mean solid. It won't move at all in either direction. I have moved the gear selector mechanism through all of its range to no avail.

What the hell? What on earth could have caused it? I think I am going mental.

Totally p'd off, and to cap it all I sat on my keys, the garage door motor was going hell for leather with the door on the door tops and has snapped all the dor mechanism plastics (car undamaged thank God) and of course the manufacturer went bust last year.
 
I don't think I can offer you any help but I can at least say you have my sympathy... it seems things aren't exactly going to plan for you at the moment. I hope life improves for you real soon.

Regards,
 
Has the engine"hydrauliced" e.g. engine oil filled a cylinder. As you know you can't compress a liquid. [ you made some mention of the engine being the wrong way up??] Solution would be to remove all the spark plugs to relieve the pressure in any of the cylinders. I saw an ISUZU 4x4 diesel engine wrecked this way after an attempted engine start following a roll over. Bent conrod!"
 
Last edited:
I wondered about hydraulicking. Wil whip all the plugs out to check. Am sure most of the oil was out though.
Torque converter is the one off the original engine - this is how I know it was previously ok as we turned the engine over to get to the torque converter fixings.
 
I wonder if the flywheels are different....hmmm
 
I wondered about hydraulicking.

That was my first thought also, but surely it would turn in the opposite direction.
Sounds like something in the vicinity of the flywheel. What did you have it locked with to attempt the pulley nut removal?
 
That was my first thought also, but surely it would turn in the opposite direction.
Sounds like something in the vicinity of the flywheel. What did you have it locked with to attempt the pulley nut removal?

The more I think about it, and after a conversatin with our friend Druk I suspect it is that i fitted the gearbox to the torque-converter'd engine, not the torque-converter'd gearbox to the engine :( and chances are the flanges in the t/c arent lined up with the input shaft on the gearbox. I was absolutely knackered at the time, not that is any excuse at all.
What I can't understand is how I managed to get the bellhousing tight and flush with the engine. I wonder what the hell I have damaged. Need to get the garage door fixed so I can ease the 129 out far enough to drop the engine and box to separate them. Spares on their way.
Now, how do you lock the engine to get the crank pulley off? I don't want to rely on the bad fitment as it will only make things worse. The reason I need to get the pulley off is that one of the timing cover bolts which held the 124 alternator bracket needs to be removed as it fouls the pulley - I have cut it twice now with a hacksaw but it is still too long to come out, and anyway it needs a bolt put back in.

Grrr
 
Now, how do you lock the engine to get the crank pulley off?

The length of flatbar we talked about John. Doesn't need to go right across, just from one bolthole in the driveplate to one bolthole on the bellhousing. Even a short length of 1/4" chain would do.
 
Old rough and ready way used to be jamming something in the starter ring gear. The Druk method sounds better though, given you can access the face rather than just the edge of the flywheel. No point in risking a broken tooth.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom