Danny DeVito
Active Member
On the gable wall of my bungalow, would the cavity be closed at the top ? Or might i be able to look into the cavity if i remove some tiles ? House built in 88
Another Building Question
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brucemillar
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It should have some form of cavity closer. This is now plastic strip with a foam cavity insert. Or it may have a wall plate. Unlikely to be open.
Get up and have a fumble about. Borrow or rent a fiber camera.
Get up and have a fumble about. Borrow or rent a fiber camera.
whitters
Member
If you want to look into the cavity on the gable for what ever reason i wouldnt want to disturb the roof so cut an hole in the internal skin located within the roof space. Easy to repair and no chance of ingress.
Ted
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They were flogging these at £59.99, but seem to have gone back up.
http://www.ebuyer.com/344756-wired-inspection-camera-gl8823
http://www.ebuyer.com/344756-wired-inspection-camera-gl8823
whitters
Member
Why do you need to look into the cavity?
Might be able to help further.
Might be able to help further.
OP
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Danny DeVito
Active Member
The internal wall is concrete and a low pitch, the bit i wanted to see into is right at the corner so no chance of an internal exam.
I had a thread posted about a cold spot http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/ot-off-topic-forums/144175-good-forum.html
Guys came and drilled the wall and found beads inside but i dont think they drilled close enough to the corner. I thought maybe i could remove roof tiles and look into the corner to see whats causing the cold bridge.
brucemillar
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Danny
You could just drill into it from the inside or maybe remove a block or brick on the inside. Looking down into the cavity is likely to require a fiber optic camera. Either way it sounds like you need to make a hole before the damp beats you too it.
If it is solely damp you are looking at then you could simply meter the inside wall that will show you if you have damp in the wall. It will unfortunately not tell where it comes from unless it is still localised enough so that you can see and damp and dry on the same wall with a meter.
You could just drill into it from the inside or maybe remove a block or brick on the inside. Looking down into the cavity is likely to require a fiber optic camera. Either way it sounds like you need to make a hole before the damp beats you too it.
If it is solely damp you are looking at then you could simply meter the inside wall that will show you if you have damp in the wall. It will unfortunately not tell where it comes from unless it is still localised enough so that you can see and damp and dry on the same wall with a meter.
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Danny DeVito
Active Member
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Danny DeVito
Active Member
Both blue walls were injected with beads. The attic should have a piece of solid kingspan insulation and then earthwool on top. Though its possible that the knigspan stuff didnt quite get into the corner due to support timbers. I will have to pull it all out and make sure of that first.
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Danny DeVito
Active Member
I got my hygrometer from hongkong today it shows 69% humidity and 19c in my bedroom. Much the same since about 4 pm today. 69 seems a bit high.
balge
Active Member
Seems high to me too, 45 - 55% relative humidity is optimum for comfort - you need to know what the rest of the house is like to compare, and improve the heating or ventilation wherever the dampest/coldest places are?
Bungalows can be notorious for damp showing high up. First port of call is to check the loft insulation isn't tight to the eaves of the roof stopping any air flows.
While you up there getting covered in fibre glass, you may be able to check if the cavity been closed, if no joy internally, due to it being a single storey, not much drama putting a ladder up and checking from the outside.
Check if the soffet is vented as well....
While you up there getting covered in fibre glass, you may be able to check if the cavity been closed, if no joy internally, due to it being a single storey, not much drama putting a ladder up and checking from the outside.
Check if the soffet is vented as well....
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Danny DeVito
Active Member
Insulation is not very tight to the eaves but they did fit 10 roof vents to compensate anyway
lxi
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this looks like a cheap price - Endoscope Camera with USB Connection at Westfalia Mail Order - UK - needs to be connected to a laptop to see the image, but for that money ....
Are the roof vents situated in the soffit board or have they built them in the wall? If they are in the soffit, all you need is a piece of cardboard or ply fixed between the roof trusses at eves level to provide continuous air flow into the loft. When this is done, stuff the insulation into the eves and this should help with the problem. Make sure you do not block off ant airflow into the loft or you may cure one problem but be faced with a more serious problem in a few years of wet rot.
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Danny DeVito
Active Member
Air vents are fitted into the roof now, 5 each side. They remove a tile and cut the felt underneath. The vent sticks up then replacing the removed tile. First visit they put them too low, now they have moved them up it seems to be helping a bit. the mold is not returning very fast except where it has penetrated the surface. Humidity is generally about 65-75 % Still very high. With all windows wide open it dropped to 55% at 17c. This was on a very VERy windy day. I havent looked into the cold spot yet
Pitts Pilot
Active Member
Can you post a photo of:
1. The outside of the wall,
2. An up to date photo internally,
3. And the best photo you can get in the loft (above the damp wall).
I might be able to help
Robert
Chartered Surveyor
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Danny DeVito
Active Member
Getting back to the cold spot, its still there so the attic vents have now good ventilation going on but this has not had any effect on the cold spot. First pic shows the huge air vent which is clear. The window is open daily also. The left wall is the gable. The last pic its the right corner.
