Another start-stop question

[jimmy220d]

Hi

Bought a 2017 E-Class Estate 220d this month. Really love it.

As it's under a 90 day dealer warranty I want to check everything is OK before it expires. Loads of toys to check!

Only one thing: the start-stop has never worked. The button in the centre console is green, but when I stop the yellow strike-through appears on the dash - not operating.

Now, I realise there are "criteria to be met" before it kicks in but does anyone know what they are? I found this list: Mercedes-Benz but it doesn't give figures, eg the temperatures at which it wouldn't trigger.

Also, I saw some other threads refer to an "ECO light staying yellow", and it not working unless it's green. Where is that ECO light? I'm not sure where to look for it.

I had the same issue in my previous car (Jaguar XF) which was cured by replacing the main battery.

Yeah, I know SS is a pain and many would love it disabled but I suppose I'm more worried about this meaning my battery health is poor.

Did 2 x 75 mile journeys at the weekend and not working even after a good run.

Can anyone offer some advice?

Cheers

Jim.

 

[barian]

Hi

Bought a 2017 E-Class Estate 220d this month. Really love it.

As it's under a 90 day dealer warranty I want to check everything is OK before it expires. Loads of toys to check!

Only one thing: the start-stop has never worked. The button in the centre console is green, but when I stop the yellow strike-through appears on the dash - not operating.

Now, I realise there are "criteria to be met" before it kicks in but does anyone know what they are? I found this list: Mercedes-Benz but it doesn't give figures, eg the temperatures at which it wouldn't trigger.

Also, I saw some other threads refer to an "ECO light staying yellow", and it not working unless it's green. Where is that ECO light? I'm not sure where to look for it.

I had the same issue in my previous car (Jaguar XF) which was cured by replacing the main battery.

Yeah, I know SS is a pain and many would love it disabled but I suppose I'm more worried about this meaning my battery health is poor.

Did 2 x 75 mile journeys at the weekend and not working even after a good run.

Can anyone offer some advice?

Cheers

Jim.

I think the "ECO light staying yellow" is an alternative display on some models. If the console button is green (i.e system on) and the yellow strike through is appearing even after a long drive there is definitely something wrong, I would say. Most likely culprits are the main or auxilliary battery (although I think the latter may actually be a capacitor). Back to the supplying dealer would be my advice.

 

[BTB 500]

Yep it will need a new battery.

On our C Class the Mercedes Me phone app gives the battery status under 'service'. This always showed 'partially charged' when we got the car, even after a long motorway run. Everything worked fine apart from the stop/start - this was fixed by a new main battery (under warranty), and the phone app has shown 'fully charged' ever since.

 

[Smiley]

fyi I think you will find under English law that the dealer has a responsibility to fix faults for a period of 6 months; not 90 days.

 

[Gazwould]

Consumer Rights Act 2015 .

 

[Petrol Pete]

There is a chance the battery is not covered by the warranty as it might be classed as a 'consumable' in the small print, depending on its age.

I hope thats not the case. The only way to find out is to take the car back to the seller and ask them.

Best of luck .

 

[Smart320]

But the battery should have been in good working order at time of sale In order for all functions to be working on the car ! Go back to the dealer and tell him you want it working

 

[MikeInWimbledon]

It's probably a low battery charge AND the dealer should fix it.

BUT please don't jump into replacing the battery "because the charge is low."

The five year old battery is "probably" low because the thing has been left unattended for months, and/or has only done short runs in your ownership.

A few hours on a battery charger, or preferably a proper battery conditioner, like a CTEK, would clear such a problem. A car enthusiast friend or neighbour will probably have one.

I labour the point because although the dealer may take the car in and "fix" the problem - possibly by driving the car fifty miles and so charging the car up - such a fix would only be temporary.

.

 

[Benz17]

I also have the same problem on my W213, unfortunately hasn’t been driven on a regular basis, but does start first time, as op, stop/start doesn’t function, and showing partial charged on MM.

Mike in your opinion would the battery charger option fix this, rather then buying a new battery.

 

[BTB 500]

I think the issue with stop/start is that the battery can be left standing with only a partial charge if you do a few short runs and then don't drive the car for any reason. This isn't good for a car battery - they're designed to be fully recharged straight away. We bought our W205 at 16 months old ... it was an MB demonstrator with only 5800 miles on it (due to Covid), and the battery was already degraded enough that it wouldn't take a 100% full charge. As mentioned start/stop won't activate unless everything is just right, and very slightly low battery voltage will definitely stop it kicking in ... even if there's no other sign of a problem with the car.

 

[BTB 500]

The five year old battery is "probably" low because the thing has been left unattended for months, and/or has only done short runs in your ownership.

A few hours on a battery charger, or preferably a proper battery conditioner, like a CTEK, would clear such a problem..

It *might* clear the problem but the OP mentioned stop/start still not working after two 75 mile runs (either of which should have fully charged a healthy battery), so I suspect not. Better to get the battery replaced under warranty if that's possible.

 

[MikeInWimbledon]

It *might* clear the problem but the OP mentioned stop/start still not working after two 75 mile runs (either of which should have fully charged a healthy battery), so I suspect not. Better to get the battery replaced under warranty if that's possible.

As I said, get it fixed by the dealer .... and replaced under warranty, if that's possible. My point was that if the dealer starts saying "sorry, it's a consumable, before throwing away a five year old battery, trying charging, or preferably reconditioning the thing.

It seems the battery has been near flat since it came off the dealer lot. Given that it's winter, even 150 daylight miles wouldn't be enough to fully recharge the battery.

Keep Greta happy, and save some money.

 

[MikeInWimbledon]

I also have the same problem on my W213, unfortunately hasn’t been driven on a regular basis, but does start first time, as op, stop/start doesn’t function, and showing partial charged on MM. Mike in your opinion would the battery charger option fix this, rather then buying a new battery.

I would say that a battery charger, and preferably a CTEK battery conditioner, would fix this. Again, borrow one from a practical / car enthusiast friend, if you know one. Fully appreciate that not every Londoner has off-street parking (cough: EV's) to charge electrics, but again, a helpful friend or relative can lend a parking space for a few hours.

I haven't replaced a battery for a couple of decades and I've been running at least a V8 and one or two convertibles for 16 years (300,000 miles) now. Vehicles being typically 10-20 years old, and routinely left unused for a couple of months at a time. That's included R230's which are appalling for gradual power leakage. Although the cars usually have their original battery, I've bought a few "Deceased spec" cars which have just had their batteries replaced just before I bought them, as a result of being left unused by the previous (deceased) owner.

There are lots of video reviews of CTEK's around. Walk into any big car collection, classic car dealer, or "low mileage" modern luxury car (Ferrari etc) and you'll see CTEK's in use.

 

[Deleted member 126251]

Hi

Bought a 2017 E-Class Estate 220d this month. Really love it.

As it's under a 90 day dealer warranty I want to check everything is OK before it expires. Loads of toys to check!

Only one thing: the start-stop has never worked. The button in the centre console is green, but when I stop the yellow strike-through appears on the dash - not operating.

Now, I realise there are "criteria to be met" before it kicks in but does anyone know what they are? I found this list: Mercedes-Benz but it doesn't give figures, eg the temperatures at which it wouldn't trigger.

Also, I saw some other threads refer to an "ECO light staying yellow", and it not working unless it's green. Where is that ECO light? I'm not sure where to look for it.

I had the same issue in my previous car (Jaguar XF) which was cured by replacing the main battery.

Yeah, I know SS is a pain and many would love it disabled but I suppose I'm more worried about this meaning my battery health is poor.

Did 2 x 75 mile journeys at the weekend and not working even after a good run.

Can anyone offer some advice?

Cheers

Jim.

ECO button staying green means that it had been switched on / enabled. In my car a green or yellow indicator on the instrument panel shows if ECO is active or not. If I’ve not had a long drive for some time - it will take an hour or more of driving to get the green ECO displaying again. As your car has stood at a dealer............

 

[BTB 500]

I would say that a battery charger, and preferably a CTEK battery conditioner, would fix this. Again, borrow one from a practical / car enthusiast friend, if you know one. Fully appreciate that not every Londoner has off-street parking (cough: EV's) to charge electrics, but again, a helpful friend or relative can lend a parking space for a few hours.

I haven't replaced a battery for a couple of decades and I've been running at least a V8 and one or two convertibles for 16 years (300,000 miles) now. Vehicles being typically 10-20 years old, and routinely left unused for a couple of months at a time. That's included R230's which are appalling for gradual power leakage. Although the cars usually have their original battery, I've bought a few "Deceased spec" cars which have just had their batteries replaced just before I bought them, as a result of being left unused by the previous (deceased) owner.

There are lots of video reviews of CTEK's around. Walk into any big car collection, classic car dealer, or "low mileage" modern luxury car (Ferrari etc) and you'll see CTEK's in use.

Although Cteks etc. can theoretically 'recover' a damaged battery I think it's quite rare for this to be successful, and they are more normally used as maintenance chargers to keep batteries topped up and prevent the damage from occurring in the first place. But they are useful things to have and certainly worth a try if you would be paying for a replacement battery yourself!

 

[Gazwould]

Be wise and purchase a proven Smart charger for a third of the price that has a display so will tell you usefull information like the starting and resulting voltage of the battery .

 

[MikeInWimbledon]

Google is always useful.

Here’s one site that explains the separate elements of reconditioning, charging and maintenance. “Other sites, and other battery conditioners are available.”

But do get the dealer to fix your battery for you, and do borrow one from a friend, if you can, before parting with your own cash to buy one.

CTEK Recond Mode: Ultimate Guide (To Recondition Batteries) - Car Battery Geek

 

[Deleted member 126251]

Although Cteks etc. can theoretically 'recover' a damaged battery I think it's quite rare for this to be successful, and they are more normally used as maintenance chargers to keep batteries topped up and prevent the damage from occurring in the first place. But they are useful things to have and certainly worth a try if you would be paying for a replacement battery yourself!

I’m not sure I agree with you on the CTEK - mine is about 14 years old and has helped maintain, recharge and repair all sorts of neglected & abused batteries (mine and friends). We did a lot of off-grid, bush camping in the 8 years we lived in Australia and our campers / off road caravans all had batteries in them plus I had an auxillary battery (in addition to the 2 massive cranking batteries) installed in my Landcruiser 200 Series. All lovingly cared for by the CTEK. I once managed to drive for 3 night / 4 days with a mudclogged alternator (not working) by charging the batteries at night with my CTEK & Honda generator. Sold the car 4 years later with the original batteries.

 

[BTB 500]

I’m not sure I agree with you on the CTEK - mine is about 14 years old and has helped maintain, recharge and repair all sorts of neglected & abused batteries (mine and friends). We did a lot of off-grid, bush camping in the 8 years we lived in Australia and our campers / off road caravans all had batteries in them plus I had an auxillary battery (in addition to the 2 massive cranking batteries) installed in my Landcruiser 200 Series. All lovingly cared for by the CTEK. I once managed to drive for 3 night / 4 days with a mudclogged alternator (not working) by charging the batteries at night with my CTEK & Honda generator. Sold the car 4 years later with the original batteries.

I don't have a CTEK, but I do have a NOCO Genius which is very similar ... side-by-side comparison here:

NOCO Genius 5 UK vs. CTEK MXS5.0 - Car Battery Geek

The 2 behemoths of the car battery charger world: NOCO Genius 5 UK vs. CTEK MXS5.0, which is the best? We go all in for this comparison!

carbatterygeek.co.uk

I've tried to use that a couple of times to repair over-discharged deep cycle / leisure batteries without any success (it has a specific 'force mode' that will put an initial charge into even a completely flat battery, which many smart chargers refuse to do). But I'm sure others will have had more luck. That aside it's a great little charger and I use it to periodically maintain the various spare lead/acid batteries I have. My AccuMate is an older & simpler design that's mainly intended for permanent connection (long-term maintenance). That works well on the SL, which is only used in good weather (the battery in that is 18 years old now). As an aside both chargers come with wall-mount brackets, which I like personally.

 

[Benz17]

I would say that a battery charger, and preferably a CTEK battery conditioner, would fix this. Again, borrow one from a practical / car enthusiast friend, if you know one. Fully appreciate that not every Londoner has off-street parking (cough: EV's) to charge electrics, but again, a helpful friend or relative can lend a parking space for a few hours.

I haven't replaced a battery for a couple of decades and I've been running at least a V8 and one or two convertibles for 16 years (300,000 miles) now. Vehicles being typically 10-20 years old, and routinely left unused for a couple of months at a time. That's included R230's which are appalling for gradual power leakage. Although the cars usually have their original battery, I've bought a few "Deceased spec" cars which have just had their batteries replaced just before I bought them, as a result of being left unused by the previous (deceased) owner.

There are lots of video reviews of CTEK's around. Walk into any big car collection, classic car dealer, or "low mileage" modern luxury car (Ferrari etc) and you'll see CTEK's in use.

Thanks for the advice, I have a garage round the corner from me, who I am very friendly with, and does my Mot’s, so will take it round there tomorrow, for him to put it on his charger, ( I guess it doesn’t have to be ctek charger ), hopefully the battery can be recovered, if not at least I have tried. As I said the car does start first time, how long before the battery will give up, I always thought a weak battery, means difficulty in starting.

My previous w211 registered 2007, sold in late 2019, had the original battery, and I frequently went abroad for 3 weeks in December/January, and it never gave me problems with starting.