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I`ve a glow warm Betacom and having a bit of a problem with the central heating
The boiler works fine on the water side of it but no heating.There is a light that stays on and the manual says it`s a fault with the CH sensor but that`s when the light flashes not stay on all the time

Any help
 
I`ve a glow warm Betacom and having a bit of a problem with the central heating
The boiler works fine on the water side of it but no heating.There is a light that stays on and the manual says it`s a fault with the CH sensor but that`s when the light flashes not stay on all the time

Any help

It's f***ed ;).

Seriously, there are a few CH engineers on here. I know generics but this is too specific for me, sorry
 
hi
had same thing with mine son boiler found it was diverter vavle disconnect harness plug and try it got mine from ebay v cheap
 
hi
had same thing with mine son boiler found it was diverter vavle disconnect harness plug and try it got mine from ebay v cheap

Well:As usual sods law,all those Gas safe friends I have I could not get anyone on the phone today :(
I`ll see how I get on tomorrow,how`s business BTW?
 
Sorry didn't notice your post till now.
The boiler is of the same stable to the Heatline compact boilers.
The usual fault with these is that the diverter valve leaks onto a motor.
This blows the fuses on the pcb.
With yours still working I would check to see if you have any water dripping from inside the boiler case. Just to rule this out.
The next check is with the CH return pipe.
If you look under the boiler it's one of the big pipes the feeds the central heating but the one you want has a filter on it.
You can turn ALL the taps off to isolate the boiler and open the filter up to see if it is blocked. You will get some water out of the boiler when you do this so I hope you can accomodate a bucket or two of water leaking from the system.
If it is blocked the boiler will fire up but will overheat because the flow is ristricted.
If this is ok then it may be a temp sensor but you would still get some heat in the system before it shuts down
don't forget to isolate all the valves and turn the boiler off before checking
 
Thank you very much Steven and just went and checked and yes there is a bit water under the boiler

Ok,now you`re stuck with me Lol.When you say Leaking diverter valve,where does it leak and what causes to do so.Is there anything I can do to stop it?
Also,what fuses are used on the pcb board?
 
http://www.heatline.co.uk/assets/boilers/products/manuals/Capriz%2025%20&%20Capriz%2028.pdf

Couple of other things.
Is the boiler still under warranty? (less than 2 years old)
You say the light is solid. This would be the case if the boiler was still warm from heating hot water DHW.
The fault lights require the boiler to think there is a problem.
If you feel confident in opening up the boiler to check the motor is switching between DHW & CH.
Also check the operation of the clock and position of the switch with CH & DHW or just DHW only.
Really simple things but I turned mine onto just hot water the other night as I were too idle to go and turn the thermostat down.
Again check your thermostat is calling for heat.
The link to the boiler I have included should be similar to yours so will give you a better heads up than the Glowworm info.
If all the basic things are checked and it still won't work then you know you are going to need a engineer to call

Regards

Steve
 
http://www.heatline.co.uk/assets/boilers/products/manuals/Capriz 25 & Capriz 28.pdf

Couple of other things.
Is the boiler still under warranty? (less than 2 years old)
You say the light is solid. This would be the case if the boiler was still warm from heating hot water DHW.
The fault lights require the boiler to think there is a problem.
If you feel confident in opening up the boiler to check the motor is switching between DHW & CH.
Also check the operation of the clock and position of the switch with CH & DHW or just DHW only.
Really simple things but I turned mine onto just hot water the other night as I were too idle to go and turn the thermostat down.
Again check your thermostat is calling for heat.
The link to the boiler I have included should be similar to yours so will give you a better heads up than the Glowworm info.
If all the basic things are checked and it still won't work then you know you are going to need a engineer to call

Regards

Steve
 
Sorry posting you while you posted me.
I would check what I hav just said before opening the boiler up
You will need a torx driver to get into the case.
Only do this if you are comfotable in doing so and you have isolated the boiler.
there are two screws underneath the case.
with these removed the fromt should lift off
if you pull the control box down you will see a black round motor on the left.
This is attached to the diverter valve and it pushes a plunger in the vale to switch between CH and DHW.
If this is leaking you will need a washer kit to refurb the valve.
This may however not be the cause of the problem because if the drips get into the motor is usually blewn the fuses on the board and everything stops.
If you twist the motor so the connector plug is at the top this will stop water leaking into the plug and fusing the board.
The motor is held onto the diverter valve by a metal C clip so it shouldnt pull off
 
Steve:One more thing,what fuses are on the pcb?The only reason I ask is because I`m going to have a look tomorrow evening so I might get some fuses with me

Thank you
 
They are special 2amp fast blow fuses. I had a bit of trouble getting some quickly and ended up buying a pack of 10 for about £6.
There are 2 on the pcb.
The pdf should give details on how to get to the board.
Have you checked the clock and the Room thermostat if you have one?
 
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on the front of the boiler you have a time clock.
It is set to tell the boiler when you want the central heating on
It needs to be fuctioning or set to on for the central heating to work.
I have a programmable room thermostat downstairs. This too tells the boiler to switch the central heating on. So my timer on the boiler is set to permanently on so the programmer can control the boiler.
If your clock or stat is not working the boiler won't know when you want the heating on.
 
on the front of the boiler you have a time clock.
It is set to tell the boiler when you want the central heating on
It needs to be fuctioning or set to on for the central heating to work.
I have a programmable room thermostat downstairs. This too tells the boiler to switch the central heating on. So my timer on the boiler is set to permanently on so the programmer can control the boiler.
If your clock or stat is not working the boiler won't know when you want the heating on.

I don`t leave it on timer as the little switch to change from timer to on all the time is so tiny it feels like is going to break
At moment is on constantly and the thermostat is on maximum
 
If the clocks running its back to where we were.
It just seem strainge that one side works but not the other?
The first port of call should be to test the clock. It may not be running.
If it is still going round than its working
I belive the boiler will only run in CH if the clock has power.

Are you planning to open her up during the day or evening?
 
Are you planning to open her up during the day or evening?

Evening more like it :thumb: having said that I might have to leave a bit early as my son is not so well so I need the house warm
 
I would start with the clock.
If the clock proves to be faulty the you would be better bypassing it and fitting a programmable stat as they cost over £100
Then check the operation of the motor by turning a hot tap on. the motor should push the pin into the valve. It can be felt working but better seen off the boiler.
The motor can be pulled off the valve when you lever the c clip out of the way. With a pair of long nose pliers you can check the needle in the diverter valve moves back and forth.
It's sprung loaded so it should push back out when you release it.
if it is leaking you will need a service kit. Cheap off ebay.
I ran mine for about 3 months before I fitted the new washers. I just kept the motor dry as it was only dripping once in a while.
If it isn't this then you might be better calling an expert.
My knowledge is a mixture of selling them and owning one
 
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Well:As usual sods law,all those Gas safe friends I have I could not get anyone on the phone today :(
I`ll see how I get on tomorrow,how`s business BTW?
did u get it sort it, business is ok but not v busy how it your end ?
 

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