Any experiences with SWAG brand ATF

[haider254]

Hi,

Long time reader, first time poster!

I'm going to do my first ATF change on my 2005 w203 (facelift, WDB2032081F650135).

I bought everything needed from Germany because the prices were great compared to local retailers.

I bought a relatively cheap ATF by SWAG, I have used some of their parts before and have been satisfied, but now that the big day is getting closer I'm starting to hesitate pouring anything that isn't explicitly cited by MB as being worthy so I'm after a second, third and so forth opinion. Below is a link to the product page as well as an image from their product catalogue.

From what I understand from WIS, the 236.10 standard is what is expected (aswell as a few others), and according to the product sheet this fills said standard. But what concerns me is the lack of brand recognition with the manufacturer and lack of google hits from anywhere other than russia.

Link to product page

Thanks in advance!

 

[haider254]

Well, looks like I've found the answer to my question. Guess I'll be putting that atf for sale online and hope someone buys it. I'll head to my local OE dealer who sells FUCHS at a decent price... For fuchs sake...

I did a bit of research online and found what seems like a genuine ATF expert over at MBworld who was involved in a 236.14 approved ATFs development, to quote him:

Please people. On no account use non approved fluids in these transmissions. One size fit's all does not work in modern transmissions. The Frictional properties of the Valvoline fluid are wrong just as a start.

Benz spends a fortune on it's approval process to protect it's product & it's customers. The oil industry likewise spends a lot of money meeting Benz specifications. There is a very good reason that so few fluids are approved.

There is also a good reason that the Benz fluid costs more. It uses better components in the blend. That does not mean that you have to pay $20+ per quart but Shell & Fuchs pricing is reasonable.

With a transmission rebuild costing upward of $8000 today to do it properly - do not mess with non approved fluids!

Please note that Benz changed the 722.6 recommendation in 2008. This is not new! The 722.6 transmission is still used in some diesel models although being phased out. It is filled with 236.14 fluid ex factory.

The thread is definately worth a read and very educational for anyone interested in ATF or the 722.6 tranny (i know, i know) in general...

722.6 ATF - MBWorld.org Forums

 

[gurpz]

SWAG is from the same makers as Febi and part of the Bilstein group:

bilstein group // Your partner for the Independent Aftermarket // SWAG 

SWAG is more popular is certain markets where Febi may not be distributed as much

Although not heard of in the UK much it is top quality stuff just like Febi is.

 

[Harley Man]

I think the general view is to use the genuine MB ATF, after all oil, filter, bolts comes to about £130, and a gearbox rebuild is £2K

 

[ray_hennig]

..... top quality stuff just like Febi is.

Febi CAN be of good quality but also can contain parts of dubious origin. Boxes have been known to say "German" or Germany" to imply German -made parts when the actual part may be from anywhere.

I'm not saying all is bad but I never buy Febi.

For those who may not know, Febi Bilstein (part of the "Bilstein Group") is nothing to do with the Bilstein (part of Thyssen Krupp) damper people.

RayH

 

[haider254]

Regarding the ATF, after reading the thread over at the other forum, I've come to the conclusion that I don't want to put anything other than stuff accepted by mercedes, there are a few different brands but I'm going to with Fuchs, I've got some time before I do the change so I'm going to see if I can find a Mobil or Shell alternative for cheaper. The "expert" over at the other forum has me convinced that an "all around" is not acceptable for the 722.6 gearbox. Febi has a .14 accepted atf and may well be the same fluid but I wont be taking that risk.

I had no idea that swag and febi are part of the same group, it's good to hear because I have had some concerns about the quality of non-critical parts by swag.

I had read elsewhere that febi tends to box lower the quality parts made elsewhere. That's a real shame, I wouldn't dare install any critical components made by them. I always wondered how a company that has such a good reputation for making great shocks could be so sneaky with other components... Whoops, wrong company.

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[merc85]

Febi CAN be of good quality but also can contain parts of dubious origin. Boxes have been known to say "German" or Germany" to imply German -made parts when the actual part may be from anywhere.

I'm not saying all is bad but I never buy Febi.

For those who may not know, Febi Bilstein (part of the "Bilstein Group") is nothing to do with the Bilstein (part of Thyssen Krupp) damper people.

RayH

Out of interest do you use Supermarket fuel??

 

[ray_hennig]

Out of interest do you use Supermarket fuel??

Yes, 95 octane from wherever - Auchan, Super U or Tesco when in the UK. I very seldom use 'branded' fuels simply because of price. I got the car from MB with 130k kms in 1997 and all seems well now with 400 k kms.

I also use 5W/40 synthetic oil, usually marked 'for diesels'. Why? Because MB put 5W/40 synthetic in it when they used to service it and, latterly, I heard that oil for diesels had more cleaning agents that might help hydraulic tappets.

I've no reason to regret the oil and fuel choices I've made.

I have Fuchs auto transmission fluid for a recent top-up 50 k kms after an MB filter and fluid change.

Regarding after-market parts, the only concession I've made was installing a Bilstein B12 spring/damper kit when the original dampers were getting old. I don't regret that but would go back to original Sportline in preference.

I do have a Lemfoerder tie rod that will be installed to replace an original (1/4 century old!) with a split gaiter. I wonder if that'll last as long?

RayH

 

[markjay]

Yes, 95 octane from wherever - Auchan, Super U or Tesco when in the UK. I very seldom use 'branded' fuels simply because of price. I got the car from MB with 130k kms in 1997 and all seems well now with 400 k kms.

I also use 5W/40 synthetic oil, usually marked 'for diesels'. Why? Because MB put 5W/40 synthetic in it when they used to service it and, latterly, I heard that oil for diesels had more cleaning agents that might help hydraulic tappets.

I've no reason to regret the oil and fuel choices I've made.

I have Fuchs auto transmission fluid for a recent top-up 50 k kms after an MB filter and fluid change.

Regarding after-market parts, the only concession I've made was installing a Bilstein B12 spring/damper kit when the original dampers were getting old. I don't regret that but would go back to original Sportline in preference.

I do have a Lemfoerder tie rod that will be installed to replace an original (1/4 century old!) with a split gaiter. I wonder if that'll last as long?

RayH

I take it you car is not DPF-equipped?

 

[ray_hennig]

I take it you car is not DPF-equipped?

Eh? Don't think so. What is DPF?

R

 

[markjay]

Diesel Particulate Filter.

Mandatroy requirement for all Euro 5 (and upward) Diesel engines. Though some Euto 4 engines already had DPF fitted.

DPF-equipped engines require Low-Ash engine oil (to prevent DPF clogging).

What model year is your car?

 

[markjay]

Most cars got DPF fitted from around late 2000', although it was a mandatory legal requirement only from 2011 onwards.

 

[ray_hennig]

Diesel Particulate Filter.

Ah. Don't think I'd have one of those with a petrol engine!

RayH

 

[haider254]

Thought I'd do an update post-flush. Ended up not using the swag fluid, decided to use a 236.14 spec fluid as per mercedes instructions and doing a complete flush. I ended up buying 20 litres of Fuchs titan fluid for 116 euros, the price per liter made it well worth it. I also have enough to do a drain and fill next year.

The procedure wasn't without complications though, I had initially planned on using the radiator method but on my w203 there was no way to disconnect at the radiator end of the cooling line, there were crimped hydraulic hoses intead of a nut fitting. I ended up undoing the left hand banjo bolt and fitting a piece of silicone tubing into it. That worked nicely because the hose I had was just tight enough to hold the pressure. If I would have known I would have machined out an m14 bolt to use as an adapter but of course I did the flush on a bank holiday.

Another issue I ran into was the draining being really slow with the transmission on P or N, ended up flushing 3 litres at a time with D and. I don't know if that caused some contamination inside the transmission but I ended up using 14 litres of fluid and getting pink fluid on my dipstick in the end. And during the last few seconds of draining I had clean fluid flowing out.

Also, it being - 20c outside and +4 degrees in the garage there was no way of getting the temp of the fluid up to 80. So I simply made and educated guess, where the temp of the fluid was around 40 degrees I figured the correct level would be around 1cm above the higher 20 degree fill line.

Overall it worked out nicely and the transmission works so much better now. Definitely recommend doing it to anyone, remember, these boxes are definitely not sealed for life, I wish I took some pics of the state of the bottom of the oil pan. I feel so bad that I didn't do this 3 years and 30000km ago when I first bought the car. Anyone who thinks otherwise should really look into the workings of a torque converter to realise the role the atf plays in the transmission of power inside of it.

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