Anyone in the Birmingham area that can diagnose my front suspension?

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Tradtx

Active Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2018
Messages
242
Location
England
Car
E320 cdi (2008)
I recently replaced my steering rack and I've since changed the thrust/castor atm and lower ball joints in the hope of eliminating knock. It's still there and could be either the camber arms, the joints on em or the links, maybe even the front arb bushes. Don't even want to go there with top mounts. All these components were changed 20,000 miles ago with lemforder, just seems a bit early to be having such noises again and I'm done chasing the problem after having forked out for a rack, ball joints and caster arms. Need help. One characteristic seems to be a little kind of creek under breaking which is separate to the occasional knock.
 
Mercland, Nuneaton or MSL , Birmingham
 
The small joints that press into the camber arms that carry the anti-roll bar drop links are notoriously hard to diagnose. You can peen the back of the joint with a ball pein hammer to tighten them. The noise will go for a few weeks if it’s them. Balljoints on the outer end of the upper wishbone can be squeaky too.
 
I recently replaced my steering rack and I've since changed the thrust/castor atm and lower ball joints in the hope of eliminating knock. It's still there and could be either the camber arms, the joints on em or the links, maybe even the front arb bushes. Don't even want to go there with top mounts. All these components were changed 20,000 miles ago with lemforder, just seems a bit early to be having such noises again and I'm done chasing the problem after having forked out for a rack, ball joints and caster arms. Need help. One characteristic seems to be a little kind of creek under breaking which is separate to the occasional knock.
The same slight creek is there when pulling off under load as well.
 
anti rollbar droplinks are a common cause of suspension knocks. When replacing your suspension components did you perform the final torque of said components fastenings with the car sitting on its suspension- failure to do this can pre- load suspension bushes causing premature failure?
 
The small joints that press into the camber arms that carry the anti-roll bar drop links are notoriously hard to diagnose. You can peen the back of the joint with a ball pein hammer to tighten them. The noise will go for a few weeks if it’s them. Balljoints on the outer end of the upper wishbone can be squeaky too.
Ok. What do you mean by peen sorry. Have you got a lil video demonstrating ? Links and inner joints were next on my list but i want to get it right as it could be the arb bushes, top mounts or upper ball joints all of which have been replaced 20,000 miles ago. Given the accompanied knock even at light loads and low speeds I'm assuming it's the arb that's flinging about now. Talk about hard to diagnose, 3 people have seen this car as well as an mot inspection, they're so solid even when failed it's hard to pick things up.
 
Ok. What do you mean by peen sorry. Have you got a lil video demonstrating ? Links and inner joints were next on my list but i want to get it right as it could be the arb bushes, top mounts or upper ball joints all of which have been replaced 20,000 miles ago. Given the accompanied knock even at light loads and low speeds I'm assuming it's the arb that's flinging about now. Talk about hard to diagnose, 3 people have seen this car as well as an mot inspection, they're so solid even when failed it's hard to pick things up.

I don't have a video, sorry. You hit the circle on the back of the joint repeatedly with the ball part of the hammer until it is slightly dished inwards. It forces the nylon cup within the joint tighter on the steel ball within, removing small amount of play. The play can allow a knocking noise which can be heard in the car, but the play is very difficult to detect by hand at the joint.
 
I say very difficult. It's impossible to feel, because the anti-roll bar loads the joint.
 
anti rollbar droplinks are a common cause of suspension knocks. When replacing your suspension components did you perform the final torque of said components fastenings with the car sitting on its suspension- failure to do this can pre- load suspension bushes causing

I don't have a video, sorry. You hit the circle on the back of the joint repeatedly with the ball part of the hammer until it is slightly dished inwards. It forces the nylon cup within the joint tighter on the steel ball within, removing small amount of play. The play can allow a knocking noise which can be heard in the car, but the play is very difficult to detect by hand at the joint.
Perfect, you're a star. Thank you.
 
I recently replaced my steering rack and I've since changed the thrust/castor atm and lower ball joints in the hope of eliminating knock. It's still there and could be either the camber arms, the joints on em or the links, maybe even the front arb bushes. Don't even want to go there with top mounts. All these components were changed 20,000 miles ago with lemforder, just seems a bit early to be having such noises again and I'm done chasing the problem after having forked out for a rack, ball joints and caster arms. Need help. One characteristic seems to be a little kind of creek under breaking which is separate to the occasional knock.
Andy Gayle in Oldbury is your man. He corrected a severe suspension issue on my old C36 after I got sideswiped, can highly recommend him.
 
WDM on Chester Road Aldridge

By the Old Irish Harp, Proper MB Specialist

Phone first due to Corona Virus protection
 

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