Before wiring in the new LED DRLs, I tested them, purely because its a little tricky to feed the wires without cutting any panels or grills or wires on the kit. These lights apparently sense an increased voltage from the alternator, and switch on the LEDs when the engine is running. My problem is, if I switch on the engine, yes they come on. And yes very nice bright lights. BUT 8 secsonds later they switch off, stay off for 1 or 2 seconds, and then switch on again (like a long blink) and stay on until the engine is switched off. I have seen about 12 utube videos, where the light just go on and off, as they should i.e. No blink. I have just last week had a new 95AH 850A cc genuine MB battery fitted by Merc and the car has no fault codes on STAR. They say my alternator is perfect, generating 14.2V at tickover and 14.4V at 900 RPM. My earth drain is beteen 0.030A to 0.00A , which they say is excellent as I have a Tracker fitted. The question is do I fit them, or get Amazon to replace them? I have phoned Philips technical department 3 times since Tuesday; they are utterly hopeless and employ the dreaded Call Centre approach. You get a non technical guy, who you have to repeat the product name 3 times to, and then he has to look up everything. They keep promising that their technical expert will write to me. Initially I thought these units were definitely faulty, but ai have seen one video online and the guy has the same problem as me. Other than his blink off is a little quicker, Sadly its in Russian, so I haven't a clue whether he is happy, or has even noticed the issue? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=F9a5AOvz5Ts Can you help me on this point? Namely the instructions say connect the negative wire to the battery Terminal. I have connected one of these to the brass Vehicle earth point, and one to the Battery negative terminal ( had to do this, to make it reach without cutting the wires) I intend to use the Vehicle earth point, because MB told me to ignore my CTEK chargers instructions and connect the negative to the Vehilce earth point. Because if you dont, "the Battery Control Module" can get confused. Hence I applied the same principle. In my test I also had to deviate slightly, because if I cut the wires Philips say my warranty is over. Below is Philips instructions and my deviation is denoted in [ .. ]. Do you think this could make a difference? Wiring ... Red Wire to Battery Positive Terminal [ per instructions ] Black Wire to Battery Negative Terminal [ per instructions ] Blue wire to Battery Negative or Earth Point [sort of per instructions, but in my case to the Vehicle Earth Point ]. ..... note on Start Stop Cars this goes to the Ign. acc + Orange Wire to Sidelight Positive Wire [ not connected ], as I dont like using those crimplocks on the MB wiring harness. IMO not connecting it just means the LEDs won't swith off if the lights are put on. If I put my sidelights on, the LEDs stayed on as planned for. I read a rumour, that these kits sense changes in battery voltage, not the general consensus of "a relay switches them on when the voltage is more than 13.2V" naturally in the absence of Philips Technical helping me I dont know. But I did monitor the Voltage on the battery with the LEDs disconnected, strainght after starting the car. I just windered if the BCM dropped the voltsge after 8 seconds. Grasping at straws here. Results:- Before starting the car 12.7V Straight after starting car 12.00V It then rises quicky 12.1, 12.2, 12.3 until 13.2 V in 8 seconds ( strange coincidence) One or two seconds later its at 14.2V. ( note these readings were from Battery Positive to Vehicle earth point.) Do you think there is something in the cars BCM that drops the voltage after 8 secs and then recovers to 14.4V after 9 seconds? had the lights not come on for 10 seconds i.e. Until this LED Kit saw a constant voltage > 13.2V ... I could have understood that. But why the on/off cycle.? Finally would you just fit them ? Or get a replacement set.?