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ASR Light on

he's damn right that its very complicated!!

Anyway, i have tonight dissasembled the electronic throttle and have replaced the wiring loom to it as it looked very old and in places the rubber sleeve was non existent...

Also sprayed good dose of electrical cleaner around the board inside but nothing seemed obviously dry or rusty..

Time will tell but im not holding much hope...
 
There is no info in WIS on the electronic throttle, the only thing mentioned is the switch that can cause the car to stall.

Anyway I am now reading it all
 
Well I have read it all the way through, and I will do the same tomorrow night.

what I am thinking of is monitoring points where say you could hook up a meter and note the change when the lamp comes on, it looks harder than a 230 to sort out


I did know a guy in Essex who is breaking up a 126 early one, I will PM him and see if he is still breaking it
 
I think that you/we are getting side tracked, the throttle is OK and working as it should be, as any fault in the ASR will give the same throttle effect.

I searched every forum last night including the German 126 forum, the worst part is that not much of the 124/6 info was transferred from microfiche over to WIS
 
I think that you/we are getting side tracked, the throttle is OK and working as it should be, as any fault in the ASR will give the same throttle effect.
=

That was my assumption too... the light did not come on for the 5 mile trip home yesterday but that doesnt mean anything... wil find out more tomorrow..
 
i think we still have a problem but its not coming on as often last couple of days...

yesterday i did 25 miles and then it came on in the last 30 yards of my trip... on the way back it was fine... today it hasnt come on either...

im thinking if its not the accumulator then its a loose connection somewhere...
 
In all my years of electronics I have never heard of or seen a semiconductor that can behave like this, Micro switches, pressure switches yes, though micro switches have a good life span they too can miss on closing, it often depends on the load, a switch that drives any form of coil- relay etc will always have a back EMF that eats away the contact surface and can open and close many times without a problem, then miss a close. They do not clean very well
 
hmm ok so my cleaning and re wiring was probably a waste of time, but that takes us back to square one... i think ive got to take the plastic lining off and have a look at this darn accumulator thing...
 
For the minute I just stick up little things in general with these things.

With a lamp you can have a bad contact that will cause the lamp to flicker, go off or whatever, your circuit is latching, that is, a bad joint or switch will put the fault on, but the same bad whatever cannot right your fault as you must power down to re set it. So it gets harder.

Is there any way that you cold raise a rear wheel or both, and run the car giving all of the connectors and switches a few clouts to see if you can get the fault up on the dash
 
yes i wouldnt be bothered but i like using the cruise!

i can do that, but i think id be plucking at straws... next step is to look at the accumulator, at least get the cover off and see if i can see brake fluid..
 
just to update, i almost drove 280 miles this weekend without the light coming on! it was fantastic having the cruise working up the M1... the light then poked its nose in about 10 miles from home on return journey...

still have not had time to look under the wheel arch..
 
I have had an intermittent ABS/ASR problem since I bought the car 3 years ago. I changed the brake switch but this did not cure the problem.

Yesterday I took it into my Indie and asked them to take a look. They have said it's a faulty ABS pump so it looks like I'm off down the breakers. I can't justify spending nearly £2k on a part for a car which is only worth 3 or 4 grand :(

Incidentally, Any prizes for guessing how much it would cost to build a car from scratch purely from spare parts.
 
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I have had an intermittent ABS/ASR problem since I bought the car 3 years ago. I changed the brake switch but this did not cure the problem.

Yesterday I took it into my Indie and asked them to take a look. They have said it's a faulty ABS pump so it looks like I'm off down the breakers. I can't justify spending nearly £2k on a part for a car which is only worth 3 or 4 grand :(

Incidentally, Any prizes for guessing how much it would cost to build a car from scratch purely from spare parts.

Are they sure of their findings, the codes can be read out on your car, also ARS runs in ABS, obviously your ABS is running as you would have failed the MOT without it
 
The car was put on the HHT so I assume they have the correct error code.

The fault is intermittent so I was lucky when I had the last MOT done as it didn't show up. Sometime the car will go for days without it coming on, other times it will be on all day long.

I was hoping that turning off the ASR would also turn off the ABS but this is not the case. The ASR switch doesn't work if the ABS is not working.

I may just take the dash bulb out for the MOT.
 
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mate, on your car its more likely to be the relay, i think a lot of the relays are the same so try swapping the ABS one with another for now.... notorious on ML's...
 
I may just take the dash bulb out for the MOT.


You did not say that the ABS was not working

If you take the bulb out it will not help for the MOT All garages have a chart for the time for the ABS lamp to go out, so you will have to leave the lamp and fit a timer that turns it off in X secs
 
mate, on your car its more likely to be the relay, i think a lot of the relays are the same so try swapping the ABS one with another for now.... notorious on ML's...


Thanks jaymanek. You don't happen to know where the relays are situated on a W202 do you?
 
My apologies for hijacking this thread.

I went to see an autoelectrician last week. He reckons it may well be the ABS modulator which is at fault. This is fixed to the side of the ABS pump. If this is the cause he is hopeful that it can be taken out and repaired for about a hundred quid or so. Better than a new modulator or pump which could cost a fortune.

It is apparently a reasonably common fault and also occurs on Volvos which use the same unit.

I'll keep you posted.
 

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