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grober
MB Master
Sounds about right since quite a few operations are involved and should be performed under scrupulously clean conditions.
1. Check fluid temperature and warm appropriately- check existing level is OK.
2. Drain fluid from box AND torque converter if it has a drain plug. Remove oil pan and remove old filter.
3. Install new filter clean mating surfaces and pan and replace gearbox pan with new gasket .
4. Torque up pan bolts with torque wrench and check the 2 drain plugs are tight with new washers.
5.Measure the volume of fluid drained. Source replacement fluid and check it meets the recommended specification for the car.
6. Fill the gearbox thro the dipstick via filter funnel with the correct volume of replacement fluid [ should be the same volume as that removed] may be less than the published capacity due to residual old fluid in the box.
7. Warm up, check level on dipstick[ use workshop level tool if car hasn't got its own dipstick] and perform a short road test to check gearbox action is OK and there are no leaks.
p.s. some gearboxes don't have a torque converter drain plug and must be drained via one of the supply lines to the fluid heat exchanger at the front of the car meaning the procedure is slightly different. Ollie has posted a detailed how to here. http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/howto/88450-how-change-automatic-gerbox-oil-flush-722-6-box.html
ps you can obviously shorten the time considerably if only a "part change" is performed with no filter renewal or torque converter drain. This only half renews the fluid and not really recommended. Some unscrupulous garages inaccurately term this a "gearbox fluid change" but this should only take a fraction of the time since a lot less labour/time is involved.
1. Check fluid temperature and warm appropriately- check existing level is OK.
2. Drain fluid from box AND torque converter if it has a drain plug. Remove oil pan and remove old filter.
3. Install new filter clean mating surfaces and pan and replace gearbox pan with new gasket .
4. Torque up pan bolts with torque wrench and check the 2 drain plugs are tight with new washers.
5.Measure the volume of fluid drained. Source replacement fluid and check it meets the recommended specification for the car.
6. Fill the gearbox thro the dipstick via filter funnel with the correct volume of replacement fluid [ should be the same volume as that removed] may be less than the published capacity due to residual old fluid in the box.
7. Warm up, check level on dipstick[ use workshop level tool if car hasn't got its own dipstick] and perform a short road test to check gearbox action is OK and there are no leaks.
p.s. some gearboxes don't have a torque converter drain plug and must be drained via one of the supply lines to the fluid heat exchanger at the front of the car meaning the procedure is slightly different. Ollie has posted a detailed how to here. http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/howto/88450-how-change-automatic-gerbox-oil-flush-722-6-box.html
ps you can obviously shorten the time considerably if only a "part change" is performed with no filter renewal or torque converter drain. This only half renews the fluid and not really recommended. Some unscrupulous garages inaccurately term this a "gearbox fluid change" but this should only take a fraction of the time since a lot less labour/time is involved.
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