OP
OP
conor1n
Active Member
Yea that would be super if you could, thanks. Mind PM'ing me your email/phone number. I can give my address and sort out other details.
Thanks a lot.
Auto electric supplier for alternator refurb parts?
- Thread starter conor1n
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Yea that would be super if you could, thanks. Mind PM'ing me your email/phone number. I can give my address and sort out other details.
Thanks a lot.
Last edited:
Ted
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Re bench testing.
The alternator will need to be clamped TIGHTly. The amount of power needed to drive it while it is generating electricity is considerably more than ‘freewheeling’
I would expect to see a large stud which you took a thick cable off. Prolly red. This is the main output and will need a thick cable connected to a battery positive to test.
another thick cable needs to be connected between battery negative and the alternator body. Jump leads will be good as long as you are 100% confident they will not fall off.
If the alternator is machine sensed, there will be a small spade terminal or post - prolly had a thin blue wire connected to it. You will need to connect one side of a 2.5-5 watt bulb to the positive side of the battery (or the main positive terminal) and this terminal. Hope that makes sense. This replicates the charge warning light and is essential to provide initial excitation of the field coils. Without it there will either be no charge or the alternator will spin up to a high speed, then suddenly start charging and may spin itself out of your clamp due to the sudden torque reaction as it starts charging.
Can’t stress too highly that you need to be very careful if you are going to try and bench test it.
Good look in getting it sorted.
Edit: do NOT use a pc power supply to test!!
Re bench testing.
The alternator will need to be clamped TIGHTly. The amount of power needed to drive it while it is generating electricity is considerably more than ‘freewheeling’
I would expect to see a large stud which you took a thick cable off. Prolly red. This is the main output and will need a thick cable connected to a battery positive to test.
another thick cable needs to be connected between battery negative and the alternator body. Jump leads will be good as long as you are 100% confident they will not fall off.
If the alternator is machine sensed, there will be a small spade terminal or post - prolly had a thin blue wire connected to it. You will need to connect one side of a 2.5-5 watt bulb to the positive side of the battery (or the main positive terminal) and this terminal. Hope that makes sense. This replicates the charge warning light and is essential to provide initial excitation of the field coils. Without it there will either be no charge or the alternator will spin up to a high speed, then suddenly start charging and may spin itself out of your clamp due to the sudden torque reaction as it starts charging.
Can’t stress too highly that you need to be very careful if you are going to try and bench test it.
Good look in getting it sorted.
Edit: do NOT use a pc power supply to test!!
Last edited:
