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Autobox Cable adjustment. W124 E300D 24V

TVRTASMIN

Active Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2006
Messages
128
Location
Steeton
Car
W124 300TD. W124 E300D. Rover P4 110. Rover P6 3.9. Various TVR's Two Ducati's.
I would be grateful of a step by step guide to adjusting the cable and linkages on my '95 E300D.

I've changed the autobox filter and oil but still find the gearbox doesn't change up until you reach about 3,000 rpm.
The cable/linkage set up is slightly different to my '90 300TD estate, which i have a workshop manual for.

I've tried putting a couple of turns out on the red cable going to the gearbox but i think i am missing something else.



Thanks
Ian
 
I would be grateful of a step by step guide to adjusting the cable and linkages on my '95 E300D.

I've changed the autobox filter and oil but still find the gearbox doesn't change up until you reach about 3,000 rpm.
The cable/linkage set up is slightly different to my '90 300TD estate, which i have a workshop manual for.

I've tried putting a couple of turns out on the red cable going to the gearbox but i think i am missing something else.



Thanks
Ian

Just showing my ignorance here - were deisel 300E 24 valves too?
 
You may have a slight vacuum leak .

Remember diesels do not make vacuum and have to have a seperate vacuum pump and associated tubing. Check the tubing is intack and no leaks.
 
Thanks fot that, i was thinking about connecting up a vacuum guage but do not have any figures to ain at.

I would like to start off by getting the red cable adjusted properly first as i have been trying adjusting this to no avail.
I als failed to make a note of where i started from with the adjuster thread.:(
 
I've changed the autobox filter and oil but still find the gearbox doesn't change up until you reach about 3,000 rpm
Sounds about right to me. The Multivalves like to rev

I think a W124 should kick down when the pedal is 60-70% of the way to the floor. That stops you having to mash the throttle to get it to kick down and lets you play tunes with the engine. But I'm always prepared to alter that depending on how the car feels

Some Multivalves make jerky changes if they rev too high before upshifting because it drops you from the top of the torque curve to the bottom and the car seems to die on its feet. There's not a great deal you can do about that. The petrol cars are better in this regard

The cable/linkage set up is slightly different to my '90 300TD estate, which i have a workshop manual for.
The engine / box is a very different setup in every way

I'd check the accelerator pedal is OK, not bent or twisted, then slacken off the kickdown cable & adjust the throttle cable. Make sure the pedal hits the floor & clicvks the kickdown switch. Make sure that, at this point, you have 100% "throttle opening" underbonnet

Once the throttle cable is 100% I'd nip up the kickdown cable till the shifts feel right

If the kickdown cable interacts with the throttle cable & starts raising the idle speed then the problem's with the throttle cable setup

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
Last edited:
Thanks Nick, i knew you would be along sooner or later.;)

Being used to driving a 1990, 297,000 mile 300TD every day, i have gotten used to sloth like performance. This older car changes up a lot sooner.

What happens when you adjust the red gearbox cable i.e taking all the slack out plus a bit more?

I'd also like to know where the sliding shaft on the linkage should be.
The Haynes manual only describes the procedure for the pre 24V.
 
The extraordinary thing about the Multivalves is that a good one will pull 5000 + rpm. No-load rev limit is 5250, IIRC, and when they MOT test them they make an amazing whooshing noise

I had mine at 4750 in third today in an overtaking manoeuvre and they pull pretty hard when they rev that high

WRT adjustments if it seems wrong it probably is. If in doubt go back to the beginning and start again. I normally get mine done when the car is serviced / prepped but have been known to tweak the odd one...

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 

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