Back in the MB fold - 2017 E220d SE Estate Premium Plus - Some questions!

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FlyBoyRez

New Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2021
Messages
29
Location
Derby
Car
E320 CDi
Hello all,

It's been a while so I'm like a newbie again. Previosuly I've had a 2000 A170Cdi, then a 2004 E320Cdi Estate (S211) and now after 6 years abroad I've just bought a 2017 E220d SE Premium Plus. Got a few questions for the hive mind about the new car.

1. The car is missing a jack and a wheel nut wrench. I'm assuming they should be there but the previous driver (car was leased) has taken them?
2. Where the folding plastic basket should be (under the boot floor on the right) there seems to be a large foam device instead... and it doesn't come out. Not a problem, I can put the basket on the left if I have to (when I get one!) but it's a bit odd. Is this right?
3. The tailgate release button in the drivers door... opens only? or should it also close as well?
4. Auto Stop/start isn't working, the logo appears in the display screen between the speedo and rev counter when I stop but it is amber and has a line through it. Research says various factors could be at issue here but likely to be a bad auxilliary battery?
5. Is there meant to be some form of hill hold? it is auto so perhaps not a thing?
6. The car came wirth a single key, presumably this is an MB dealer job to get the second key due to a need for coding it to the car? Any ideas on cost?

I've also decoded the VIN to see what the car is supposed to have and have a few questions about this as well

7. code 235 Active park assist - presumably this is just the reversing camera and the ultrasound sensors all over the car. I'm aware of posher systems with full top down view and remote parking, assume this isn't them
8. code 258 COLLIS.WARN. SYS. W/ ACTIVE BRAKE INTERV. FCW STOP - Not planning to try this out any time soon but having recently driven a specced up Skoda Octavia estate with a large plastic panel in the grill that seemed to have all sorts of sensors for keeping me in my lane and actively hammering on the brakes, I can't see a similar system on my car.... I think on the W213 the grille star is filled in with shiny plastic and that's the sensor? if so I'm wondering what the above option is and how it works?
9. code 3A1 ASSEMBLY, ACTUATORS (THREE WHEELS) - No clue what this, any thoughts?
10. code 502 3 YEARS OF MAP UPDATES FREE OF CHARGE - well I'm outside of the three years, any thoughts on how to get further map updates?

Finally, my research has lead me to glean the following about the Premium and Premium Plus specs, just checking to see what else is meant to be included in these spec levels?
Premium - Sunroof, memory front seats
Premium Plus - as above but with Burmester Sound System

Thanks in advance!
 

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Update - With regard to the parking assistance... A further look at the VIN specs shows I have option code P44 Parking Package, which as I understand it covers:
360° camera
Four networked cameras in front grille, wing mirror and boot.
Information from PARKTRONIC on vehicle contours shown,
and rear guidelines included

Selecting reverse only gives me the rear view camera and a top down graphic with sensor alerts in boxes... can't see how to get the fancy stuff up! 🤣
 
I can answer some but not all your queries:)

1 Missing jack and wheel brace. Do you have a full sized spare wheel? If not, there should be a can of gunk to inflate a punctured tyre. If there is, and you bought the car from a main dealer, ask if they will replace the tools that are missing. If not, eBay is your friend.

2 No idea.
3 The button on the door only opens the tailgate as far as I know.
4 A few conditions need to be met before stop/start activates. Engine up to temperature is one but if the aux battery is low voltage it won't work. Check you have at least 12.4v. 12.6v is fully charged.
5. Could be the aux battery low voltage?
6. Main dealer is around £270 for a new key. You'll need your V5 and ID to order one.
7 Active Park Assist is explained in this video
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8. I have that, and a warning beep and flashing red light on the cluster reminds you you are too close or approaching too fast to a car ahead. It's supposed to apply the brakes for you but I'm not that brave to test it out.
9 No idea.
10. Unfortunately Mercedes won't update the map for free after the 3 yr interval. It cost me £99 for the latest map to be added at the dealer when I had it serviced.

Hope that helps with some of your questions.
 
Update - With regard to the parking assistance... A further look at the VIN specs shows I have option code P44 Parking Package, which as I understand it covers:
360° camera
Four networked cameras in front grille, wing mirror and boot.
Information from PARKTRONIC on vehicle contours shown,
and rear guidelines included

Selecting reverse only gives me the rear view camera and a top down graphic with sensor alerts in boxes... can't see how to get the fancy stuff up! 🤣
It could be the case you car doesn't have it. I just checked my spec sheet and listed is:
- P47 Parking Package with 360-degree camera
- 235 Parking Pilot

When you put the car into reverse all the available camera modes should be on the left and you can toggle through them using the scroll wheel by default and they should give you the different modes.

Check to see if you have two cameras on your door mirrors one under each mirror as that is part of the 360 degree camera option.

In terms of point 2 - yes there usually is a basket there but it could be the case the previous owner didn't put it back in. The foam can be used as extra storage. If you did ever want to put a spare wheel in there I know on older mercs you could buy the correct foam insert which houses a spare wheel but as mentioned by others nowadays every manufacturer gives tyre weld which costs a few quid. Look at run flats if you are worried about punctures.

Hope that helps.
 
3. On our 2017 C Class estate I can close the tailgate by pulling and holding the switch on the drivers door. If you let go the door stops. So hold onto the switch until the door is fully closed.

5. Being an Auto it should have the ‘hold’ function. Whilst at a standstill with foot on the brake. Push down sharply (as if braking) then release. A rectangular white box should appear in the dash with ‘HOLD’

To pull away simply touch the accelerator.
 
Awesome responses chaps! Been out this morning practicing with the Park Assist, no 360 more for me since no cameras under the mirror.

Collision warning system works (!) and so does hill hold… the whole electronic handbrake is rather clever!
Will be contacting the vendor about the aux battery under the warranty, bought it two days ago!
Many thanks!!
Rez
 
Awesome responses chaps! Been out this morning practicing with the Park Assist, no 360 more for me since no cameras under the mirror.

Collision warning system works (!) and so does hill hold… the whole electronic handbrake is rather clever!
Will be contacting the vendor about the aux battery under the warranty, bought it two days ago!
Many thanks!!
Rez
Have you tried the tailgate closure?
 
1. I believe that cars that are not delivered from the factory with a spare wheel (very common these days) - be it a full spare or space saver - will only have the tyre inflator and gunk (TIREFIT kit), and no wheel brace or jack. Cars delivered with runflats won't even have the inflator. So if your cars does not have runflats and the inflator kit is missing, you should ask the dealer to provide it. If you wish, you can buy a spare wheel and a brace and jack kit.

4. The most common cause for Start/Stop not working is a discharged or faulty battery. This can be either the main battery, or the auxiliary battery (which in your car may actually be a capacitor). Try charging the battery overnight using a tickle charger, or take the car for a long motorway drive. And also check the battery voltage with the engine switched-off, it should be 12.7v when fully charged. If the battery is fully charged and Start/Stop still isn't working, then most likely the auxiliary battery (or capacitor) will need to be replaced, but have the main battery checked by an auto electrician first using a load tester (or modern digitalalternative), because sometimes the issue is actually with the mainbatteryand not the auxiliary one. That said, Start/Stop also depends on other variables (see the owners manual for details), so make sure you drive the car in different conditions before condemning it.

5. If you continue and press hard on the brake pedal after normal braking, it will go into HOLD mode. Once you see the HOLD message on your dash, you can let go of the brake pedal. The car will be braked and won't creep even though it's still in D. The brake HOLD will automatically disengage when you touch the accelerator pedal.
 
The car is missing a jack and a wheel nut wrench. I'm assuming they should be there but the previous driver (car was leased) has taken them? THERE IS NO JACK/WHEEL WRENCH
2. Where the folding plastic basket should be (under the boot floor on the right) there seems to be a large foam device instead... and it doesn't come out. Not a problem, I can put the basket on the left if I have to (when I get one!) but it's a bit odd. Is this right?SHOULD BE UNDER THE BOOT FLOOR RIGHT HAND SIDE
3. The tailgate release button in the drivers door... opens only? or should it also close as well? PULL UP TO OPEN AND PUSH DOWN (HOLD IT DOWN) TO CLOSE
4. Auto Stop/start isn't working, the logo appears in the display screen between the speedo and rev counter when I stop but it is amber and has a line through it. Research says various factors could be at issue here but likely to be a bad auxilliary battery? LIKELY BATTERY NEEDS CHARGING FROM DRIVING (THEY ARE VERY SENSITIVE)
5. Is there meant to be some form of hill hold? it is auto so perhaps not a thing? YES - PUSH THE FOOTBREAK TO THE FLOOR WHEN STOPPED AND THE WORD HOLD WILL APPEAR IN THE DASHBOARD, YOU CAN THEN TAKE YOUR FOOT OF THE PEDAL AND THE ENGINE WILL STOP. TOUCH THE THROTTLE TO START MOTION
6. The car came wirth a single key, presumably this is an MB dealer job to get the second key due to a need for coding it to the car? Any ideas on cost? YES - GET THE 2ND KEY

I've also decoded the VIN to see what the car is supposed to have and have a few questions about this as well

7. code 235 Active park assist - presumably this is just the reversing camera and the ultrasound sensors all over the car. I'm aware of posher systems with full top down view and remote parking, assume this isn't them SELF PARKING - STANDARD FIT ON UK CARS
8. code 258 COLLIS.WARN. SYS. W/ ACTIVE BRAKE INTERV. FCW STOP - Not planning to try this out any time soon but having recently driven a specced up Skoda Octavia estate with a large plastic panel in the grill that seemed to have all sorts of sensors for keeping me in my lane and actively hammering on the brakes, I can't see a similar system on my car.... I think on the W213 the grille star is filled in with shiny plastic and that's the sensor? if so I'm wondering what the above option is and how it works? INTELLIGENT CRUISE CONTROL - WILL STOP THE CAR IN TRAFFIC AND START IT AGAIN
9. code 3A1 ASSEMBLY, ACTUATORS (THREE WHEELS) - No clue what this, any thoughts?
10. code 502 3 YEARS OF MAP UPDATES FREE OF CHARGE - well I'm outside of the three years, any thoughts on how to get further map updates?
 
As others have said it's likely the 12v battery is a little too low for the stop start to work. My A Class did the same thing when I first picked it up. After around 20 miles the battery sufficiently charged up for the stop start to work again.
 
1. I believe that cars that are not delivered from the factory with a spare wheel (very common these days) - be it a full spare or space saver - will only have the tyre inflator and gunk (TIREFIT kit), and no wheel brace or jack. Cars delivered with runflats won't even have the inflator. So if your cars does not have runflats and the inflator kit is missing, you should ask the dealer to provide it. If you wish, you can buy a spare wheel and a brace and jack kit.

4. The most common cause for Start/Stop not working is a discharged or faulty battery. This can be either the main battery, or the auxiliary battery (which in your car may actually be a capacitor). Try charging the battery overnight using a tickle charger, or take the car for a long motorway drive. And also check the battery voltage with the engine switched-off, it should be 12.7v when fully charged. If the battery is fully charged and Start/Stop still isn't working, then most likely the auxiliary battery (or capacitor) will need to be replaced, but have the main battery checked by an auto electrician first using a load tester (or modern digitalalternative), because sometimes the issue is actually with the mainbatteryand not the auxiliary one. That said, Start/Stop also depends on other variables (see the owners manual for details), so make sure you drive the car in different conditions before condemning it.

5. If you continue and press hard on the brake pedal after normal braking, it will go into HOLD mode. Once you see the HOLD message on your dash, you can let go of the brake pedal. The car will be braked and won't creep even though it's still in D. The brake HOLD will automatically disengage when you touch the accelerator pedal.
Thanks! I’ve bought an extending wheel brace so I will be able to get the wheels off when needed!

I’ve been in touch with the dealer and it’s going in for potentially a new battery to get the stop/start working.
And finally the hard press on the brake worked a treat!
 
Once again huge thanks chaps for all your support chaps!

Thankfully the car has got just the stop start issue and a recently discovered high pitched squeal from the offside rear wheel. Comes on after around 10minutes of driving, goes away if I apply the brakes (even gently) or if the road is a gentle left or right hand sweep. As soon as I am driving in a straight line the sound comes back.

wheel bearing or brake?
 
Once again huge thanks chaps for all your support chaps!

Thankfully the car has got just the stop start issue and a recently discovered high pitched squeal from the offside rear wheel. Comes on after around 10minutes of driving, goes away if I apply the brakes (even gently) or if the road is a gentle left or right hand sweep. As soon as I am driving in a straight line the sound comes back.

wheel bearing or brake?

Calipers slightly binding, or bent dust shield, or a stone trapped behind the dust shield, would be my guesses.
 
Update on the Stop/Start... it took two new batteries and a software update to get it there but finally, Stop Start works! :)

Thanks all!
 

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