ball joint(?) replacement on W124

Discussion in 'Wheels, Tyres, Brakes & Suspension' started by tpv01, Nov 22, 2008.

  1. tpv01

    tpv01 Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    guys. my access to this forum has been limited of late but i have taken a picture of a joint that has the split boot in the first picture.

    [​IMG]

    the second picture is when the other end of the same rod goes. the aspect is with steering wheel on left lock and looking in from the rear of the wheel on the drivers side.

    [​IMG]

    can someone confirm what part this is and how i replace this joint??

    i could replace the boot but it has been in this state for a few thousand miles so i am assuming the joint is now screwed. How can i confirm the joint needs replacing?

    many thanks
     
  2. bigstuff

    bigstuff Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    its the rod track end a small job & not exsp to have done but you will need the tracking done after
     
  3. OP
    OP
    tpv01

    tpv01 Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    where can i buy this from? do i just walk in and ask for a track rod end and they will know what i am talking about?

    details on how to change it please.
     
  4. bigstuff

    bigstuff Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    just give the model year ect you can get one from mb or any motor factor like euro car parts they even send it to you if req
     
  5. c240yaz

    c240yaz Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    You cannot replace just the boot, New unit required, As others say, easy job. You may a need a ball joint splitter. Best that you do both O/S and N/S at the same time.

    Tracking does not need to be done immediatly, but do it soon afterwards.

    Give both, the lock nut on the rod end and the ball joint nut a spray with WD40 or other release oil before attepting to loosen. After loosening the ball joint nut, do not remove it fully, until you have freed off the ball joint from the hub end. Try and fit new rod end to the previous mark stop thread of the old rod end,
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2008
  6. lynall

    lynall Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    You can buy just the boot assuming there is no play in the joint itself i remember reading it in a classic car magazine, do a google.



    Lynall
     
  7. lynall

    lynall Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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  8. bigstuff

    bigstuff Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    i think if you go that far you are aswell to just do renew it
     
  9. grober

    grober MB Club Veteran

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    cost benefit analysis?

    On a cost benefit analysis renewing just the boot is false economy. Leaving aside the difficulty of achieving an efficient water/roadgrit tight seal to both ends of the boot the major effort involved is dismantling and remaking the joint. You may also find taking the joint apart results in the demise of the old joint because they can be quite difficult to free up. They are a relatively cheap part and any hint of wear is an MOT failure so simply not worth the risk. The only circumstance you would contemplate a boot repair is when its difficult to source the entire part (maybe this is why it appears in a classic car mag??) there's a small section on the track rod end here.http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/W124BallJoint
    but the article is mainly about the larger suspension ball joint which is not the joint you are concerned with.
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2008
  10. lynall

    lynall Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    You dont take the joint apart, you remove the nut clout the arm with a hammer the whole complete joint drops out, old boot off, new on, back in to arm tighten nut, done, no tracking needed:bannana: .

    Ps should also say most joints are impossible to take apart as they are sealed for life, but the boot can be replaced.




    Lynall
     
  11. lynall

    lynall Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Just reread your post and noticed the bit thats its been like that for a while so yes new joint needed, looks like you loosen the large nut on the arm if you look to the left of the nut you will see a split there will be one each side of the arm and as the nut is tightenend the arm grips the joint tighter, then once nut loose undo and remove the top nut hit the rusty end of the arm several times the joint will drop out then need to be unscrewed from the rod and the new joint fitted.
    But its prob all seized so will take some getting out may be better for a garage to do if you are not sure.



    Lynall
     
  12. daveuj

    daveuj Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Take to a garage get a quote for both sides plus tracking as you may get a good price at the moment.
    Have done some not hard but can get you in a mess if things don't go to plan, price the parts first so you have some thing to go at when you get a quote.
    How long to your MOT they will Quote for this as it will fail.
     
  13. OP
    OP
    tpv01

    tpv01 Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    thanks all. while to MOT (AUG) but it was picked up in that MOT as soon needing replacing as ripped boot but no play yet. May try garage but seems simple enough that i can do myself.

    BIGSTUFF, it is 1994 E300d multivalve. If you could advise on getting the part that would be great as i plan to do it in a couple of weekends time.

    what would be the reason to do both sides at the same time as only one side is ripped. i assume generally if the boot is still in one piece the joint will be ok. i cant see how there would be a time saving reason either???

    is the only hard point of the job if everything is siezed?
     
  14. 230K

    230K Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Hi

    The tie rod with both balljoints included for drivers side is A1243300803 and costs £28.43 from MB Inchape. The single balljoint that is gone is A003385110 costs £22.52. No brainer in my opinion just get the rod complete with both balljoints, remove the old one with a balljoint splitter or a carefully placed crack with a lump hammer on the side, adjust your new tie rod to the exact same length as the one you remove and fit it and tracking should be near enough just monitor tyre wear.

    230K
     
  15. daveuj

    daveuj Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Do both sides as this is good pratice you will only have to pay for tracking once eg: cost parts approx: £20/£30 each side tracking £20/£35 if the other side was to fail (same age boot)the second track will cost the same as a new part, plus it will feel better(this is part of your steering)
     
  16. tobyd@callnetuk

    tobyd@callnetuk Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Hi, I have a sqeak coming from the ball joint when i steer lock to lock and sometimes when the suspensions working (not all the time). I have sprayed some WD40 into the joint using the little red tube that comes with the can and pushing it into the plastic bush. This has stopped the squeak but I'm wondering whether the noise is a sign the thing needs replacing or if its just an age thing?
    Thanks Toby
     
  17. grober

    grober MB Club Veteran

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    You don't say whether its a suspension ball joint or a steering one. If it squeaks it means its- starting to wear/worn and should be renewed. These joints are encapsulated by a boot and are not designed to be lubricated . If you got a wd40 spray tube in then the boot seal must be slack and can let water/grit into the joint
     
  18. OP
    OP
    tpv01

    tpv01 Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    done. thanks guys. went into GSF to buy the part and the complete tie rod was cheaper. matched the length to the one on the car and it was very east to change.
    not noticed steering feel being better and havent got the tracking done yet but im keeping an eye on tyre wear which should show itself quickly if there is a problem as i do a lot of miles.
     
  19. 230K

    230K Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Hi

    Great you got it fixed and thanks for reporting back.

    230k
     
  20. tobyd@callnetuk

    tobyd@callnetuk Hardcore MB Enthusiast

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    Hi there,
    Does anyone know if the part code for the tie rod and both ball joints quoted by 230K in his post would be the same for a 1994 E280T? What would be the number for the other side?
    Looking to get my ball joints replaced and thought that getting the full rod changed might be better in the longrun.
    Thanks Toby
     

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