Beading rain

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Collinite 845.

Sounds like like something you take for a toilet issues ;ˆ) but it works beautifully.

Less is more with this stuff. Get the car nice and clean, then do the bonnet or roof first, there is enough left on the micro-fibre towel to do the rest of the car. A clean towel shines it up with very little effort. Over-spill is not an issue, it will simply wipe off without leaving any residue

It is very good on Black and Red.
 
norte23 wrote (about "sheeting" polish):-

"Thanks for that. I've just bought some".

Make sure you keep us informed, I'm convinced this is the way to go... Beading is all very well, but it causes as many problems as it solves...
 
Good to see somebody putting their money where my mouth is :D
Hopefully Norte23 will start a thread called "Sheeting Rain" to compete against Ben's one.

I can't stress enough the importance of preparing the paint surface prior to application of the product. The PTFE-based sealant needs to bond to the clearcoat so you can't expect it to perform if it is just floating on top of other products. If done correctly Fusso Coat's real world performance is mooted to approach 12 months, something usually only achieved by glass coatings using nanotechnology that promotes covalent bonding. Bear in mind the awesome sheeting in the video was achieved after a full multi-stage polish and 2 applications of Fusso Coat Dark. At the very least I would expect the application of a paint cleanser prior to treating with the Fusso Coat. I've generally had better success with more specialist products rather than those found on the shelves of the High Street sheds like Halfrauds. Here's a highly regarded German product for preparing your clearcoat:

R222 Paint Cleanser


Good luck and remember "Fail to prepare, prepare to fail"
 
Toobad said:
Good to see somebody putting their money where my mouth is :D Hopefully Norte23 will start a thread called "Sheeting Rain" to compete against Ben's one. I can't stress enough the importance of preparing the paint surface prior to application of the product. The PTFE-based sealant needs to bond to the clearcoat so you can't expect it to perform if it is just floating on top of other products. If done correctly Fusso Coat's real world performance is mooted to approach 12 months, something usually only achieved by glass coatings using nanotechnology that promotes covalent bonding. Bear in mind the awesome sheeting in the video was achieved after a full multi-stage polish and 2 applications of Fusso Coat Dark. At the very least I would expect the application of a paint cleanser prior to treating with the Fusso Coat. I've generally had better success with more specialist products rather than those found on the shelves of the High Street sheds like Halfrauds. Here's a highly regarded German product for preparing your clearcoat: R222 Paint Cleanser Good luck and remember "Fail to prepare, prepare to fail"

Great posts

One question: would CarLack 68 be OK to use prior to applying Soft99?

Thanks

Alex
 
I can understand your thinking, Alex since Carlack 68 NSC (Nano Systematic Care) now sold as Carlack car.care Complete is promoted as a cleaner. It is actually a cleaner/sealant so whilst preparing the clearcoat, it would also deposit a high density acrylic coating which is definitely no good as a base for Fusso Coat.

Apart from R222, look at the collection of products here:

Pre-wax Cleaners

Hope this helps.

Trev.
 
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Collinite 845.

Sounds like like something you take for a toilet issues ;ˆ) but it works beautifully.

Less is more with this stuff.


I made that mistake once by I must admit my ar$e was beading for weeks! Haha

Totally agree less is more. A thin even layer is perfect as if you over apply and then try buffing it can be a real pain.

In my early days of detailing I bought a tin of Collinite 476, over applied it to a black car, caked on and spent an age buffing it off!

Best bet is a thin coat and then apply a second next time the car gets a wash. Should last a good while.

I'm looking to apply Britemax Extreme elements to my E Class and will see how well 845 sits on top.
 
My money where your mouth is hahahaha I like that.
It should arrive tomorrow. What's this paint cleanser you talk about ? I will need this to remove the current coating I presume. I don't have a power buffer not want one. I ordered the Fusso microfibres clothes kit also. A bit of hard graft never hurt anyone.
 
Not wanting to derail Ben's thread, I'll just ride the off-topic train for one more station. There are only 2 rules to follow when applying sealants to paintwork:

Rule 1 - Never, never, I say NEVER apply a sealant over a wax.
Rule 2 - Verify full understanding of Rule 1.

Without a machine polisher to hand, it is safe to assume your C250 has accumulated its fair share of swirls and scratches over the last 6 years. Your car was sprayed at the factory with PPG Industries CeramiClear clearcoat. This is one of the hardest paint finishes to be found on any car so without some insanely monumental hand polishing effort, we have to accept those swirls and scratches are here to stay. Maximum gloss is all about flat surfaces and under a microscope your paintwork is an area of troughs of varying depth. Remember that physics lesson you slept through at school? The teacher was banging on about the fact that when light hits a flat surface, the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection. If only they had just said "To get your Merc shining like a diamond in a goats ar$e, you need to WAKE UP!

So this is where the R222 Paint Cleaner (other cleaners are available) comes in. It is all about decontamination. Before applying your Fusso Coat you will want to remove all traces of your previous protection along with the tar spots and all manner of other crud you have accumulated just by driving around in your car. R222 will do this but additionally will "Polyfilla" in all those microscopic swirls and scratches to give both a flat surface for enhanced reflectivity and a contaminate and wax-free surface to which the Fusso Coat will readily bond. This is the very least you should do before applying any new sealant to a car that has been previously waxed. Purists will steer you to dedicated decontamination products and the need to "clay" the paint but without a machine polisher to do the necessary paint correction, we are essentially attempting to polish a turd.

Here's another link to a selection of Paint Cleaners, this time the prices are slightly higher but the P&P is free so psycologically it may seem a better deal. Not all contain fillers but each product has its merits so peruse them all.
I favour R222, Auto Finesse Tough Prep and the Poorboys products but your own particular set of circumstances will dictate your choice. The site also has an excellent Car Care Advice section which is also well worth a read.

Pre-Wax Cleaners and Glazes

Hope this helps,
Trev.
 
I'll tell you what TOOBAD your costing me some coin here. I just ordered the R222 & bought a power buffer/ polisher
 
My work here is done. :devil:
 
Well it's been tipping it down all night and the other half gave me a lift to the train station.

Nice to see the Rain-X working on the sunroof.

3BB027CA-F289-4758-818E-86DCE6A4E9ED_zpsjxxb64cc.jpg
 
This is my car and the only other car on the works car park that came close to beading



Think mines the better beading car lol
 
Yes thats fine pictures of nice cars .And good polish .But i need to say that , as soon as the sun comes out , it will transfer the water markes in to the paint finish.. I know i have had this on my car and what a mess it makes .All white spots all over the body work. They do go after time .So dont be to botherd about it .So now if it rains i go out and wipe the car down with my leather .I maybe silly , but i leather it off every time it rains .
 
My car this morning after the heavy rain from last night



And then after 20 mins with a micro fibre cloth



Cheers
Ben :thumb:
 
Beading after claybar and buff with maguires ultimate compound followed by a couple of coats of Auto Smart Wax


 
Not forgetting the detailing properties of BSD

My clean car got severely bombed the other day in the afternoon, but didn't get any opportunity to wipe it down until the night
i-xjvG7Bc-XL.jpg



So sprayed on BSD liberally to soak in and soften up the crap before wiping off to park car back into the garage
i-dx8hpBJ-XL.jpg
 
Another good reason to seal/wax a car!

So many people hear how long I've spent on detailing a car and go' "it'll just get dirty again". Far easier to clean off the dirt when it's protected :)
 

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