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I had my car once 'attacked' with squirrel poo. It sets like reinforced concrete. I found that warm water removed the worse of it, leaving as you describe a rough witness patch. Autoglym tar remover did a decent job removing the visible markets. Autoglym paint renovator made the surface nice and smooth again. Followed by Autoglym resin polish and wax.
I imagine there are better products out there, but for me Autoglym is widely available, not too expensive, so gets my vote.
I imagine there are better products out there, but for me Autoglym is widely available, not too expensive, so gets my vote.
Roger Jones
Active Member
- Joined
- May 18, 2006
- Messages
- 824
If you are quick to deal with the mess:
Autoglym - car cleaning products, car care products, car valeting, car detailing
Autoglym - car cleaning products, car care products, car valeting, car detailing
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2005
- Messages
- 7,616
- Location
- Cheshire, UK
- Car
- C270CDi Estate (late 2004 facelift model) - Bought 2005, Sold 2022.
I used that to get rid of an horrendous splodge mark on the bonnet of daughter's metallic black car that was left in the clear-coat after bird poo had been removed.
It's a little scary to use if you've only ever used something like T-Cut as it's fairly aggressive in comparison!
H13BS M
Banned
Hi there buddy!
If after wiping the excess you are left with a rough feeling, the first thing I would do is look at the Affected area in direct sunlight or a halogen lamp as this will help you assess the damage.
If it's not to bad, you have options to remove the 99% of the defect. One is correcting the paint via machine polish, or if it's damage the paint to a deeper level then you will need to wet sand.
To remove with a d.a. Or rotary, mask the area up and apply a medium cut polish with on a medium/light pad. Prime the pad with the polish and using the primed pad, spread the polish over the defect. Then on speed 3 spread the polish to create a little heat between the paint and the pad. Once spread up the speed to 5-6 and do slow, but uniformed passes across the defect. This will keep the polish spread evenly without creating to much heat. Keep this up till the polish has broken down. This will be when the polish goes to a water/clear liquid form. When this happens, the polish has broken all of it's micro abrasives down and done all it can do. Now wipe away excess and see how how it looks. If it doesn't look much better, then it's more then likely going to need wet sanding.
I would explain how to do this correctly, but I'm sure you have already fallen asleep!lol!
If you do get to the stage that you need to wetsand, pm me and i'll explain how to do this correctly. Otherwise if you tell me what area you are in, I will point you in the right direction of a quality detailer.
Hope this helps mike
If after wiping the excess you are left with a rough feeling, the first thing I would do is look at the Affected area in direct sunlight or a halogen lamp as this will help you assess the damage.
If it's not to bad, you have options to remove the 99% of the defect. One is correcting the paint via machine polish, or if it's damage the paint to a deeper level then you will need to wet sand.
To remove with a d.a. Or rotary, mask the area up and apply a medium cut polish with on a medium/light pad. Prime the pad with the polish and using the primed pad, spread the polish over the defect. Then on speed 3 spread the polish to create a little heat between the paint and the pad. Once spread up the speed to 5-6 and do slow, but uniformed passes across the defect. This will keep the polish spread evenly without creating to much heat. Keep this up till the polish has broken down. This will be when the polish goes to a water/clear liquid form. When this happens, the polish has broken all of it's micro abrasives down and done all it can do. Now wipe away excess and see how how it looks. If it doesn't look much better, then it's more then likely going to need wet sanding.
I would explain how to do this correctly, but I'm sure you have already fallen asleep!lol!
If you do get to the stage that you need to wetsand, pm me and i'll explain how to do this correctly. Otherwise if you tell me what area you are in, I will point you in the right direction of a quality detailer.
Hope this helps mike
H13BS M
Banned
Also for some reason I couldn't go back on my post, and edit it from my iPhone. But I forgot to say you may need to jewel after machine polishing. Meaning after the high speed polishing, bring the d.a. Back down to speed 3 with no pressure passes over the polished area. This will uniform the broke down polish, making it easier for a good wipe off result. This is only because a harsher compound may leave buffer trails and slight holograms!
Carl Gosney
Member
Try Meguiar's UK range used it stuff from its range of products for a few years good stuff...
H13BS M
Banned
Think someone works for a certain product company!!
nigel cross
MB Enthusiast
Like most things in life, prevention is better/ easier than the cure.
Always keep your car fully waxed, it protects your paint
Always keep your car fully waxed, it protects your paint
Carl Gosney
Member
No m8 i dont its just that i have had stuff from other companys & they dont do wat they say on the tin & i have use alot of other stuff on my cars & vans over the years lol...
H13BS M
Banned
Don't get me wrong megs do some great products, but there is defently lots out there that are better then alot of there products.
Carl Gosney
Member
I have tryed a few not many do m8 but when i get a product i like i normally stick to it unless i can be persuaded different lol...
H13BS M
Banned
I too have used alot of products, so if your looking for something in particular, then im sure i can suggest a couple to wet the taste buds!
flango
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
I totaly agree I find Meg's overhyped and overpriced sh*te, there are far better out there, there are one or two good products on the range but overall there is better out there for the money depending on what particular job you have in mind.
crockers
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2007
- Messages
- 7,097
- Location
- North Wilts
- Car
- XC60 MY2014 SeLux Nav plus lot and lots of toys...
Coming back to OP's question, I agree with Nigel on post#11 - prevention...etc.
I wax my car regularly and find bird pooh washes off a treat..
Just been trying something called showroom shine - not brave enough to use it on a dirty car as advertised but it does leave a lovely glossy coat..and bird pooh comes off a treat..
Waxes I have used - collinite 486s, Auto glym HD wax - both take a wee bit of effort to buff up but bead nicely..Polish I use is Megs #93 (I think thats the number) - use that once a year and wax afterwards. I appreciate its not in the same league as a pro's work but it suits me..
Oh I clay too once a year......too much work to do that more regularly
I wax my car regularly and find bird pooh washes off a treat..
Just been trying something called showroom shine - not brave enough to use it on a dirty car as advertised but it does leave a lovely glossy coat..and bird pooh comes off a treat..
Waxes I have used - collinite 486s, Auto glym HD wax - both take a wee bit of effort to buff up but bead nicely..Polish I use is Megs #93 (I think thats the number) - use that once a year and wax afterwards. I appreciate its not in the same league as a pro's work but it suits me..
Oh I clay too once a year......too much work to do that more regularly
Sprint-Man
Active Member
I live near the coast and frequently get 'bombed by the airborne sh*t* machines/birdies, I've used WD-40 on the 'dollop' protected by a surround of kitchen roll and leave for a couple of minutes then clear it. So far (non metallic paint!) it's worked, good luck!
H13BS M
Banned
Coming back to OP's question, I agree with Nigel on post#11 - prevention...etc.
I wax my car regularly and find bird pooh washes off a treat..
Just been trying something called showroom shine - not brave enough to use it on a dirty car as advertised but it does leave a lovely glossy coat..and bird pooh comes off a treat..
Waxes I have used - collinite 486s, Auto glym HD wax - both take a wee bit of effort to buff up but bead nicely..Polish I use is Megs #93 (I think thats the number) - use that once a year and wax afterwards. I appreciate its not in the same league as a pro's work but it suits me..
Oh I clay too once a year......too much work to do that more regularly
Unfortunatly show shine (if you mean ag) is the ultimate hologram product. it leaves holograms all over the body of a car, so in direct sunlight it really doesn't look very nice.
Carl Gosney
Member
You will have suggest a few m8 but the wife loves the window cleaner one she says it the best she as use for house windows lol & dont mind paying extra as long as it does the job now i had a a spray from autoglym for the dead flies when i was courier one thing i hated was a dirty windscreen mix with water it was brill lol...I too have used alot of products, so if your looking for something in particular, then im sure i can suggest a couple to wet the taste buds!
