Boot Lock Options

[AdamCF]

Hello all,

I've got my lovely w202 sport cdi, the boot lock wont lock either on the central locking or with the key (no turn)

I followed the instructions on taking it all apart and re greasing (i let it soak for 2 days) and unfortunately this hasn't solved the problem.

Part of me is thinking the key is wrong although it does work with the drivers door.

Central locking on the boot doesn't work either despite replacing a split vacuum hose. Checked boot fuses, all good.

What are my options? Get a new boot lock and hope someone has a key for it?

Also the rear left tailight is loose, again I've taken it off and refitted it to no avail...

Cheers

Adam

 

[Dec]

If you just removed the lock from the boot lid and soaked in whatever you used then that may not free up a seized lock, it may need to be dismantled completely.

Try turning the key to the right as in picture 10 below.
Compare how far key blade enters the driver’s door compared to the boot lock. If it doesn’t fully enter the lock then it won’t turn.

Dec

 

[AdamCF]

Sorry I wasn't clear,

I fully dismantled the lock including all parts of the barrel.

The keys goes all the way in.

 

[219]

Hello all,

I've got my lovely w202 sport cdi, the boot lock wont lock either on the central locking or with the key (no turn)

I followed the instructions on taking it all apart and re greasing (i let it soak for 2 days) and unfortunately this hasn't solved the problem.

Part of me is thinking the key is wrong although it does work with the drivers door.

Central locking on the boot doesn't work either despite replacing a split vacuum hose. Checked boot fuses, all good.

What are my options? Get a new boot lock and hope someone has a key for it?

Also the rear left tailight is loose, again I've taken it off and refitted it to no avail...

Cheers

Adam

The best option , if you can't get this to work otherwise , is to order a new lock from the dealer - this will be ordered against your chassis no and the lock will then match the other locks on the car and open with the same key .

Unless you've had the car from new and know otherwise , the lock , or the whole bootlid may have been replaced in the past - hence the key not fitting ?

I'd persevere with lubricating the barrel , with it out of the car apply some shock/vibration whilst trying to turn the key , it might still come free .

Something like one of the old vibration type engraving tools might work well to loosen the tumblers inside the lock whilst manipulating the key back and forth ; or a hammer drill if you have one you can turn off rotation and just have the hammer action ? Anything to give the lock a good shake up and loosen the tumblers .

Oh - don't put WD40 into locks like the numpty in the pictures - it is a water dispersal agent , not a lubricant , and will destroy locks - you want proper graphite lubricant for locks .

 

[Dec]

Sorry I wasn't clear,

I fully dismantled the lock including all parts of the barrel.

The keys goes all the way in.

If it was reassembled correctly then it should be working.
If all 10 levers were lined up when the key was put into the lock barrel as illustrated in lower picture below then the key should be turning ok, maybe the lock doesn’t belong to the key that you have … does the key work in the glove box lock?

It is possible to make the lock barrel fit the key blade by rearranging the levers and filing their tops off so as to get the result as illustrated in above picture. That assumes there is nothing wrong with the existing lock except that it is not the original lock and so doesn’t match the original key blade.

Regarding electronically opening the boot, are all 3 remote fob buttons working, Red led will light when each button is pressed, the boot open button needs to be pressed for more than one second to open the boot.
Can the vacuum pump be heard when the central locking is operated via the remote fob or the switches inside the car when ignition is on?

Don’t use graphite or grease to try to free up a seized lock, its not lubrication that’s required, use WD40 or a Penetrating oil as suggested by the numpty in the pictures.

WD40 won’ t destroy locks and you cant shake up the tumblers in the lock, the are spring loaded and cant be freed up in that way.

Dec

 

[219]

I have rearranged tumblers and filed them to make a lock fit a key as illustrated above .

Sole use of WD40 or penetrating oil , without following up with proper lubrication using graphite WILL destroy locks .

WD 40 is not a penetrating oil - it is a water dispersal agent and does more harm than anything else . Proper penetrating oil , such as Plus Gas , is a useful agent to free up gunged up tumblers , and a bit of vibration DOES help to break 'stiction' where ingress of dirt ( such as on a boot lock ) is the root problem .

I have repaired and/or freed off numerous seized locks , and fettled them to fit keys on countless older cars .

 

[Dec]

I have rearranged tumblers and filed them to make a lock fit a key as illustrated above .

Sole use of WD40 or penetrating oil , without following up with proper lubrication using graphite WILL destroy locks .

WD 40 is not a penetrating oil - it is a water dispersal agent and does more harm than anything else . Proper penetrating oil , such as Plus Gas , is a useful agent to free up gunged up tumblers , and a bit of vibration DOES help to break 'stiction' where ingress of dirt ( such as on a boot lock ) is the root problem .

I have repaired and/or freed off numerous seized locks , and fettled them to fit keys on countless older cars .

The root cause of this lock seizing is moister/condensation, forming inside the lock, this is prevented in the early years by the grease used by the manufacturer, eventually, this grease is no longer effective and corrosion takes place, resulting in seizure, the best thing to use in a lock is WD40.

See… http://vodi.su/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/WD-40-2.jpeg

I’ve been using WD40 in the boot and door locks, about twice a year, for the last 5 years, none of the locks have seizes up or been destroyed. How on earth can WD40 destroy the metal alloy, brass, plastic and rubber that make up this lock?

Did somebody tell you it would turn your lock into Black goo and destroy it or have you actually witnessed this destruction of locks with WD40?


Dec

 

[219]

WD40 is dreadful stuff - I don't care what it says on the side of the tin - it is a moisture dispersant , and it washes all the lubricants and protective coatings out of locks and leaves them susceptible to corrosion - boot locks in particular where there is a vortex created at the back of the car whilst in motion and filled with corrosive exhaust gases .

Flushing locks out with WD40 is just the worst thing you can do - it isn't a lubricant at all .

As soon as you flush a lock out , you must re lubricate with the correct material - normally graphite lock lubricant .

I've repaired and rebuilt locks on various cars over the last 40 years , and when done properly you can leave them alone for a good number of years - you shouldn't need to squirt stuff in them twice a year .

One of the main problems with newer cars is that people just don't use the locks , instead using remote plippers , and the lack of movement is one of the primary problems - locks which are regularly used don't give trouble .

 

[AdamCF]

Don't suppose theres anyone in London who might be nearby and fancies taking a look for some beers?

 

[Darrell]

Don't suppose theres anyone in London who might be nearby and fancies taking a look for some beers?

There probably is but they are too busy arguing what's better to put in a lock!!

 

[Codger49]

For what its worth, I use graphite powder for lubricating locks.

Seems to work OK, would be interested to hear if its the wrong product to use over the long term.

 

[AdamCF]

Ok, trip to the dealer it is then haha

 

[AdamCF]

Dealer want £356.40 for a boot lock. I'm afraid I can't agree to that.

Anyone in the north London area wanna take a look or is anyone selling one?

 

[Abb]

I am currently looking at my boot lock options as part of my ongoing project. My boot lock was beyond repair despite trying my best to save it, following all the guides by Dec. I have replaced the whole lock assembly/unit from another used W202 but now obviously the tumbler ic=s incorrect and it didn't come with a key.
Simple fix, contact dealer provide proof of ownership and VIN, order correct tumbler, remove old tumbler and replace with correct one.
WRONG! I was told I had to buy the whole lock assembly/unit for the sum of £358.80
Apparently they don't supply them separately??

So can anyone shed any light on how I can make the current tumbler (without a key) fit my current existing key blade? Or better still a company that could offer this service?

Apologies for the thread hi jack, just thought it would be helpful adding to it than creating another.

 

[Dec]

What year is the car or is it a flip out key and is it a salon?

Can you removed the tumbler from the lock?

Dec

 

[Abb]

Dec, the car is a 1999 saloon. It's not a flip out key, just has the blade inserted down the side of it.
I can remove the tumbler from the assembly IIRC, as that's what I did 1st time round when I tried to revive the existing one.

 

[Dec]

The lock can be made to fit your existing key by rearranging the 10 leavers in the lock barrel.

You can either DIY or get a real locksmith to do it for you, if the locksmith can pick a car lock then the should be able to make the lock fit your existing key.

To do it yourself, remove the lock barrel, you will see 10 levers, 5 on top and 5 on the bottom. Each of the 5 levers on top matches each of the 5 bottom levers.



Above; remove all 10 levers and lay them out in order as above.

Next, put in lever 1 in the first slot and insert your existing key into the lock barrel, if you see that the lever is a good flush fit then remove the key and put the first bottom lever, 1, into the next BOTTOM slot, this should be the “twin” of the first lever, 1.

The objective is to get as close a fit of all the levers as possible.



You will have to swap the levers around to get the best fit, then sand or file the tops of the levers with the key FULLY inserted in the lock barrel until all levers are nice and flush as illustrated in bottom picture, above.




Make sure ALL 10 springs are reinserted with each lever.
The result should be a working lock & key.


Dec

 

[AMGeed]

^ Great advice from Dec the Safebraker

 

[Abb]

Thank you for such a detailed reply Dec, unfortunately I don't think I could tackle that . I will look for someone more competent than myself, after all thats why they are locksmiths! Great explanation BTW!!

 

[Dec]

Ok, no problem, just for the record, the first picture in post #17 is of a boot lock barrel and the second and third pictures are of an ignition lock barrel, same principle though for the task in hand.

Dec