Bought a second hand W203 to ***** about with - pics and questions

[jpod]

Hi I bought a 2003 C class 180k 110k

TL/DR

Question If I remove the supercharger (any tips appreciated) in order to change the breather pipes

• Is it advisable to change the engine mounts (two)
• Change the belt tensioner on the front of the engine
• Change the injector seals (x4)
• Change the gasket between S/Charger and the engine?
• Do I need anything else?

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The pre-face lift. I like driving it better than my 2005 version. Has a grey cloth interior which is mint and it is metallic green! There has been a long-standing joke about buying my girlfriend another green car……VW Mark 4 is tired at 160k...…she got a green one!

It drives very smooth. I got it for a few hundred quid. There is a schedule of work planned. I have a few questions and I will post updates with pics with your help along the way.

It is getting new brake pipes, a track rod end, a coil spring, new disks/pads.

Did I mention the engine management light was on. I got a P0171 code and tried cleaning the MAS but it made no difference. The Pros also read the codes.

• It makes a racket in reverse – alternator pulley needs changing.
• The exhaust has a blow – it is getting welded.
• The classical rear wheel are rot will be treated. Bloody MB!
• The gear box is leaking oil, going to get a new gasket, filter, pilot bush, fluid….
• I am going to service it – air, cabin, oil, plugs, fuel filter
• A local Mercedes independent will do the suspension, welding, track rod, spring, gear box

With the car running the mechanic held the rubber hose closed and there was a rush of air – so the fuel code may be partly related to a leaking hose (and the exhaust).

I understand this hose is partly under the supercharger. I could not figure out how to remove it in the past but I want to do this job myself to save cash. I removed the air box etc a few years ago on mine and got down there but I was stumped on how to remove the S/C.

I am wondering about doing the autobox - last time I made the sump plug torx hole knarly! Opps...

Thanks for help and I will post pics of my rookie spannering.

 

[jpod]

I have checked the engine mounts they are fine. I ordered service parts.

Change the belt tensioner on the front of the engine - is it necessary and is it this:
LEMFÖRDER Belt Tensioner, v-ribbed beltNumber of article: 34413 01
Reference number OEM: 2712000270

Still need to know if I need to change the injector seals (x4) and do I change the gasket between S/Charger and the engine?

Oh and my title had an old fashioned term for "tinkering" with cars.......it was not my attention to be rude!

Any help appreciated, thanks jpod

 

[markjay]

A 2003 car is likely to have the 1.8L M271 engine.

If so, then changing the timing gear (chain, tensioner, and sprockets) with modified parts should be your first priority.

 

[markjay]

When servicing the gearbox.... change also the pilot bush. If it's not leaking now, it will start leaking at some point.

Also, there's a very good 'how to' guide for ATF and filter change of the 5g box, posted on this forum by Olly from PCS.

 

[markjay]

There's a known issue with the M271 engine where a vacuum hose under the air box become brittle and split. This will cause EML and rough idle. The hose is inexpensive but the process is time-consuming because the air box will need to come off for access.

 

[Petrol Pete]

Notorious for cam sprocket/chain wear which sends the car directly to the crusher even with FULL MB service history they still fail especially at this mileage. Check if it has been done, if not plan to do it very very soon.
Sometimes you get warning signs of uneven running but most times the chain jumps and mashes the valves into the pistons in the blink of an eye.

Plenty info on the web. good luck

 

[markjay]

As for rust.... the early Chrysler-Daimler cars had massive rust issues, until MB started galvanizing their cars in mid 2003. It would be useful to check if your car's Date of First Registration is in early 2003 or late 2003.

If the car is galvanized, the rear wheel arch rust could be a local issue, e.g. as result of stone chip or previous poor repair etc.

If it is not galvanised, then I would check the body panels and undercarriage very carefully for any additional signs of rust.

 

[jpod]

Thanks for the advice Mark & Pete, appreciated. I will research those issues and post again.

 

[jpod]

Hi again. Here is the post re ATF change. It is a cracker.......

How to change the automatic gerbox oil and flush on a 722.6 'box

I have been reading and not all 1.8K's have the timing chain issue. Is it possible to take the top cover off the engine (rocker cover? sorry I am a noob) and inspect the chain and sprockets for wear?

Plus - my original question - I have got down to airbox and removed it in the past. But got stuck at the supercharger. Anytips on removing the SC to get to the pipe beneath?

To change the pipework. I understand the SC has a bolt above and beneath - and a few connectors to undo.

Do I:
Change the injector seals?
Change the SC seal to the engine
Change the pulley tensioner while I am there?
The mounts are fine..............
Anything else?

KR pod

 

[Petrol Pete]

Using your VIN and engine number might help you shed more light on the 'fact' not 'all' 1.8K suffer from 'Mitsubishi' cam chain maladies, but I wouldn't count on it .

If the 'before and after' problem engine numbers or build years are miles apart from what is in your car then fair enough, it might be worth chancing that your engine is not one of the problem ones. If there is any doubt get it checked out.
Basically the sprockets were made out of some kind of cheese and the chain belongs on a (very) small moped at best.

Like I said , loads of info on the interweb. all the best.