We are going to look at a e220 tonight, is there any problem areas i should look out for, its a 1996 convertible with 60,000 on the clock. I dont have much knowledge of this model and it has come up unexpectedly so i havent had any time to research it, any advice would be welcome.
buying a e220 (w124) convertible. Advice please
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Check the engine for oil leaks. They tend to. Do't expect it to be quick. That little engine has to pull alot of weight.
d w124
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The only thing to look out for is rust.Wheel arches all around and also the jacking points.The engine is bomb prof,so you have nothing to worry on a 60k car.I would recomend the e320,but is your choice
grober
MB Master
Check the retractable soft top mechanism works and stows away correctly by operating it several times. At the same time check the rear seat headrest roll over protection works by manually raising and lowering it. The soft top material should be relatively unmarked and free from leaks and all the windows should raise and lower without hesitation. Check for excessive score marks on the driver and passenger door glass. Happens if people raise and lower the windows when they are covered with grit. Otherwise all the normal checks for a W124 of that age. Check the paperwork for service history/mot's / no of owners etc At 60,000 miles it should all be there.
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Where's The Boss when you need him...
Do a search - more info on this forum about 124s than you'll ever need!
Do a search - more info on this forum about 124s than you'll ever need!
In comparison to later models the W124 cabrio is a solid car.. All you have to really do is check everything works and the engine oil is black and pressure is good - at least 1.5 bar at idle and hot.
Check the engine oil is black? Have you been smoking something this evening Jay?
To add to the above I would start by having a really really really good look at the bodywork. Rust can get these cars around all the wheel arches; at the leading edge of the front wings, around the repeater lights on the wings, at the middle of the doors just above the plastic panels, around the jacking points, in the inner wings towards the front and under the washer bottle, at the bottom of the very lowest part of the bonnet (next to the grille), around the boot button, around the remote locking assy under the boot lid and last but not least (and particularly difficult to repair) around the aerial mount on nsr wing.
Once done with the bodywork, check the hood carefully. I don't know how many motors and assemblies are in there and neither do you once you have bought it. The first signs of the fabric of the roof going are at the top towards the back (marks in the fabric on the top) and at the bottom of the roof where it meets the rear wing just above the rear wheel - must be where it folds I guess. Budget £1500 - 2000 for a roof.
Apart from that all the usual checks. 220 a bit gutless but at least it will have the stronger 4 speed auto; check the colour and level of the ATF - and check for a nice smooth idle hot and cold; an erratic idle can be a bit of a PITA to track down. Check for nice clean coolant with no signs of oil contamination.
Once done with the bodywork, check the hood carefully. I don't know how many motors and assemblies are in there and neither do you once you have bought it. The first signs of the fabric of the roof going are at the top towards the back (marks in the fabric on the top) and at the bottom of the roof where it meets the rear wing just above the rear wheel - must be where it folds I guess. Budget £1500 - 2000 for a roof.
Apart from that all the usual checks. 220 a bit gutless but at least it will have the stronger 4 speed auto; check the colour and level of the ATF - and check for a nice smooth idle hot and cold; an erratic idle can be a bit of a PITA to track down. Check for nice clean coolant with no signs of oil contamination.
The w124 is by far one of the nicest cars i own, and i too am looking at an additional model to purchase,
if power is no issue, the 220 will suffice, and will be more than adequate on long distance drives, however, in town, it will struggle...
checks from my own experience...
arches, light joints and hinges...
check window movement and the hood... sometimes they can stick on first try, no big issue, as on a 14 - 15 yr old car, it is just a wear and tear aspect, my motors are re greased every year, and it should keep them going for ever...
in terms of interior, just surface wear and tear is the only thing to look for... the internals will almost always be solid..
check for the points where the lights meet the metal, and these sometimes can have rust issues, and if this be the case, could be a sign of possible accident damage or atleast previous cracked light units...
wheel bearings and suspension should all be fine, but look out for smooth rides..
the wheel bushes have alot of weight to hold up, and a bigger after market alloy can shift the balance points, and potentially increase wear on these parts.. worth having an AA inspection if you have any deep concerns!
Good luck!
if power is no issue, the 220 will suffice, and will be more than adequate on long distance drives, however, in town, it will struggle...
checks from my own experience...
arches, light joints and hinges...
check window movement and the hood... sometimes they can stick on first try, no big issue, as on a 14 - 15 yr old car, it is just a wear and tear aspect, my motors are re greased every year, and it should keep them going for ever...
in terms of interior, just surface wear and tear is the only thing to look for... the internals will almost always be solid..
check for the points where the lights meet the metal, and these sometimes can have rust issues, and if this be the case, could be a sign of possible accident damage or atleast previous cracked light units...
wheel bearings and suspension should all be fine, but look out for smooth rides..
the wheel bushes have alot of weight to hold up, and a bigger after market alloy can shift the balance points, and potentially increase wear on these parts.. worth having an AA inspection if you have any deep concerns!
Good luck!
jonnyboy
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rattly heat shields on downpipes to add to the list
JumboBeef
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I have a 2.2 in my estate, I find it quite nippy!
you know what i mean... as long as its not white!
I thought that you had meant to say check the oil is clean; I have not come across a w124 or w201 petrol with dirty oil yet but then all mine have been six cylinders - does the four pot engine turn the oil black?
I didnt mean to say black, just normal colour!
grober
MB Master
If the cylinder head gasket has gone the oil tends to turn very black- probably due to water entraining water soluble contaminants better. Folks expect the oil to be white when viewed on the dipstick but often its just black with a thin "tracer" of white in it- a bit like a colour code tracer on a bit of electrical wiring. This white colour is going to be much more obvious when you drain the oil of course! A white " mayo "under the filler cap is another sign but that can also occur with only running the engine cold- if it doesn't warm up enough to boil of any normal engine internal condensation. This was a problem that plagued some VW engines blocking crankcase breathers Car review: Volkswagen Polo III (2000 - 2002)
JumboBeef
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Well done!
That's what I keep saying about the 2.2 I think it is a cracking engine, and pulls really well.
That's what I keep saying about the 2.2 I think it is a cracking engine, and pulls really well.
