Buying an early w203

[dbolge10]

Looking at buying a c180, c180k or c200k in the next couple of weeks.

Due to my budget (7k), iam looking at cars around the 60,000 mile area (year 2000-2001 cars).

Do these cars make it to 100,000 miles easy or am i taking quite a risk buying a c class with this amount of miles?

Thanks.

 

[Martin]

I would like to know this too as I have an early W202 (1993 C220 Sport petrol) which is still very reliable and rust free at 150K miles. My brother is offering me his W203 (2000 C200K Avantgarde 80K miles) for the trade in price, he's had a few problems with it especially front suspension bushes but it does not seem as solidly built as my old one which has been all over Europe with no problems (Just got back from 2000 mile round trip to Italy).

 

[verytalldave]

I have read elsewhere the early W203 were not the best made Mercedes models and that quality improved at the launch of the facelift in 2004. However, that doesnt help you much as you only have £7k in your pocket.
Given regular, good servicing there is no reason why a W203 mechanicals shouldnt see 200k miles - or even more. I bought my 2004 W203 from a dealer with 45k on the clock.
A little bit high for the year, but with full and proper MBSH. It didnt put me off. Diesels tend to do higher mileages than petrol, so thats something to bear in mind also.
Personally, I love the shape and everything about the W203 and as with everything, its an individual thing. Only you will be able to know whether its the car for you.

 

[miro]

There is nothing wrong with any W203 BUT the very first of the series were prone to have known issues. Some of these are trivial and others are more annoying.

Defining the series types in the W203 family
-----------------------------------------
- 2000-2002 First type with obscure ESP module and annoying airbag 4 pins.
- 2002-2003 Inbetween series with better electronics and old engine type
- 2003-2004 M271 powered series FIRST UHI series.
- 2004-2005 Facelift version
- 2006-2007 Refined version with self-braking on speed limiter

The first 2-3 versions had
- oil in the transmission harness
- oil in the engine harness
- too much voltage (blowing stop lamps and front indicators)
- noisy bushes

For all situations there is solution if the problem is caught in time.

I should point out that ALL W203 have the need for the following
- wheel bearings
- thrust arm bushes
- sway bushes

When neglected these lead to poor road feel and crap handling feel.

W203 also needs routine fluid service in
- engine
- coolant
- transmission
- battery acid (or replace battery)
- radiator

Having seen the result of "for life" transmission fluid, it really is not that at all.

Electronics on a W203 only FAIL if the previous owner was American and they randomly disconnect the battery for no reason and then power up the wrong way. THe early fuse boxes were prone to not working again.

The W203 needs more care than a W202 but it does not need more than any other car. Certainly the 2002 W211 was a bigger gremlin than the W203.

As the series rolled forward the engines and the control module software improved to the point where it is extremely advanced. So as any modules are replaced the functionality is improved. They are good cars to work on and mod easily to have GPS fitted or phone kit.

 

[dbolge10]

Great thanks for the detailed info guys.

I dont have a problem servicing and maintaining all of the above, the problem being that the previous owner might not have taken such due care and the damage already been done.

If i were to buy the car and 6 months down the line had a bill for 3 or 4k then i would be in trouble (19 yrs old student earning min wage )

From the above post, oil in the transmission and engine harness sound expensiive?

 

[Dieselman]

One thing not mentioned so far is rust.
Check all seams and around the boot trim and look for spider webbing under the paint on panels.

I recently saw one that would make any W210 look good, blisters on every panel and joint.

 

[miro]

Great thanks for the detailed info guys.

I dont have a problem servicing and maintaining all of the above, the problem being that the previous owner might not have taken such due care and the damage already been done.

If i were to buy the car and 6 months down the line had a bill for 3 or 4k then i would be in trouble (19 yrs old student earning min wage )

From the above post, oil in the transmission and engine harness sound expensiive?

To inspect the transmission you remove the passenger floor panel (carpet trim) and look at the earth point and transmission controller. My car had a puddle so it was easy. That harness should be replaced and also the transmission plug on the sump (so you may as well do a transmission service call. You may have to flush the connections inside the car and wash out the oil from the spongy sound insulation.

For the engine you remove the cam magnet connection and "wash" the connector onto a white rag. If the oil stains are on the rag there then you have to install the "spacer" harness (A271 part number) and "wash" all of the other connections. The Engine controller has to be taken out also and held upside down for several hours to see if it holds any oil. If it holds oil it has to be opened and flushed with circuit board cleaner.

Engine harness oil defect usually manifests in
- CAM magnet
- O2 sensor
- Oxygen mass sensor
- ECU
- camshaft sensor
- crankshaft sensor
- any other sensor associated with the ECU wiring diagram.

With a vice you gently and slowly crimp the engine controller into its metal can. Better to crimp 3 times than once and go too far.

Things like blinker / stop lamp repair solutions exist as do replacement bushes.


If you go for new wiring then 1K will do the engine harness and transmission harnes plus several bushes.

If you type in your VIN into the WIS (workshop system) then it will throw up any warranty work which has not been done yet. This includes recalls on rust in the door seal and trunk seal areas.

 

[1998K]

- battery acid (or replace battery).

Mine is a 2003 C270cdi sedan, bought used 9 mounths ago. I had a bad acid smell into the cabin so I changed the battery (close to the air cabin filter), so the smell went out! OK, but I'm asking, due to the fact that this seems a common problem as you said, if the problem is related to a bad battery production in that years?

Thanks so much

PS: now I'm worried about the other problems you said: engine harness,...

 

[IanA2]

I'd stick to the 202....great cars...

 

[miro]

Mine is a 2003 C270cdi sedan, bought used 9 mounths ago. I had a bad acid smell into the cabin so I changed the battery (close to the air cabin filter), so the smell went out! OK, but I'm asking, due to the fact that this seems a common problem as you said, if the problem is related to a bad battery production in that years?

Thanks so much

PS: now I'm worried about the other problems you said: engine harness,...

There were the following recalls on the W203 C180 / C200K (pre2003)
- bad battery
- smelly heater core in the heater box
- overvoltage on rear stop lamps causing them to blow
- overcurrent on the front headlamp indicators blows lamp holder
- heater box footwell flap click noise
- engine harness oil - fixed with spacer harness
- transmission oil plug update
- fuel line not crimped correctly
- door seal rest prevention

Those are ones which I did for my car. Nothing to get alarmed about. Just have to keep replacing the air filter element as the fungus and bacteria grow in the old filters.

It does suck (sic) that the battery is above the cabin air intake. That is why I installed the carbon filter mechanism into my 580 AC. I converted my cheap AC into the Thermotronic thus giving me carbon filtering and a much better interior air quality.

 

[miro]

I'd stick to the 202....great cars...

The only problem with is devoted owners cause the prices to go up.

 

[Rumble]

I wouldn't go for a C180 purely for the lack of power. I went from a 2L 190E to a 1.8L C180 and wow it took me a good while to get used to the sluggishness of it, at first I thought there was a problem with it then i found out it was just the norm.

I have an '02 w203 C240 for 10 months now and i'm happy with it, not had any major problems with it or any signs to be worried about, though I will be changing the fluids soon as suggested previously. Managed to even pop in a G-Class Euro Comand in recently!

 

[JC180]

I wouldn't go for a C180 purely for the lack of power. I went from a 2L 190E to a 1.8L C180 and wow it took me a good while to get used to the sluggishness of it, at first I thought there was a problem with it then i found out it was just the norm.

Careful differentiation needs to be made between a C180 and a C180 Kompressor the latter of which is perfectly adequate for the W203 it must be said though that you will not find an early C180K as I think they were only introduced in 2003.

 

[1998K]

Dear Miro thanks a lot for your detailed reply!
Acutually my car run well, hoping it will last, please I'm asking following clarification.



- bad battery
They purchased a cheaper series of batteries, it seems. I've changed mine.


- smelly heater core in the heater box
I hope that the smell has been solved with the new battery. Do you/they have changed also the heather core or you are happy with the new Thermotronic and carbon filter?

- overvoltage on rear stop lamps causing them to blow
You noted this due to a lot of burned lamps? I've changed only a couple in a year. Something to improve or nothing to do?

- overcurrent on the front headlamp indicators blows lamp holder
I've to check H7 holder I belive. Anything else (see previous item) to avoid overcurrent?

- heater box footwell flap click noise
Is this the other problem discussed in the other tread, those plastic link to change?

- engine harness oil - fixed with spacer harness
Please could you describe how/where check if I've the spacer?

- transmission oil plug update
But is it only a different nut/bolt? Is the old one leaking? I've changed the ATF fluids one year ago but not at the Dealer.

- fuel line not crimped correctly
Something to check, mine is a diesel.

- door seal rest prevention
I've sprayed sylicon grease over the plastic seals. Something else to do?

I really appreciate you kind help

Marco

 

[ROBB]

I've printed this thread go go home and read later - some v.good info

I bought mine at 120k april 2005, and have had to spend on it only for wear/tear:
Pads/Discs/tyres (obviously)
Castor arm bushes/ARB's
Alternator pulley (little noisy on tickover) & black fuel line 'device'
Glow plugs/MAF sensor
Rear Shoks (did them meself :bannana: )
F/L/H indicator bulb holder

I dont consider any of the above to be due to any other cause than 146K on it and not at all unreasonable (IMHO)
I'm having the steering/suspension overhauled soon - and then it will be pretty much "As New" & i fully intend keeping it until i can afford a W204 estate in a couple of years (me likes lots )

The models built in germany seemed to have fared better but all in all:
A Damned fine car

rob

 

[miro]

- bad battery
They purchased a cheaper series of batteries, it seems. I've changed mine.
>> that was a free recall


- smelly heater core in the heater box
I hope that the smell has been solved with the new battery. Do you/they have changed also the heather core or you are happy with the new Thermotronic and carbon filter?
>> The core was fungus / bacteria infected and smelled like cat pee. The updated core was anti-microbial.

- overvoltage on rear stop lamps causing them to blow
>> The fix is a resistor pack from Mercedes which looks like a short M-F cable

- overcurrent on the front headlamp indicators blows lamp holder
>> Wiring update kit directly to indicator

- heater box footwell flap click noise
>> those plastic arms !

- engine harness oil - fixed with spacer harness
>> A271 part number. Special 10cm cable.

- transmission oil plug update
>> There is a cable that plugs into the sump - the new cable surround prevents the oil into the harness

- fuel line not crimped correctly
>> Just a recall - the smell is a giveaway

 

[miro]

I dont consider any of the above to be due to any other cause than 146K on it and not at all unreasonable (IMHO)
I'm having the steering/suspension overhauled soon - and then it will be pretty much "As New" & i fully intend keeping it until i can afford a W204 estate in a couple of years (me likes lots )

rob

What till all of the 7G transmission owners find out that they have to change their sump pan at the first filter change. The new filter design requires more clearance - so the sump pan has to be swapped also.

I have a perfectly good used steering rack sitting in the garage. Let me know if you are interested.

 

[recycled]

were those early 203's not made in south africa?

 

[JC180]

were those early 203's not made in south africa?

Yes they were and mostly had poorer build quality than the later German built models.

Interestingly the estate was always built in Germany so may be a better bet for an earlier model.

 

[miro]

were those early 203's not made in south africa?

Not according to Mercedes. Apparently factory 2R is in Germany. I may be mistaken.

When people complain of build quality I have never seen a W203 fall apart. I think that the electronics were a bit unreliable for the above reasons. Perhaps those rubber bushes could have been more chunky and the lubricant water resistant.