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C124 - rear wings being done again..any pre-requisite actions?

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charan_singh

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Jan 2, 2011
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Guys,

I have in another thread asked for some advice on 'treating' minor surface rust in the rear arch of my C124. I've decided to get them stripped (again) 'rust treated' primered, base coated, painted and lacquered AGAIN.

I then intend to get the car waxoyled and all the rest of that malarkey afterwards.

Is there anything that you guys would recommend before, during and after this work on the arches?
 
If it is a set of similar recommendations...then please ignore!
 
Rust is something that builds up over time and although looks minor may well be embedded deep into the metal. Now with regards to your question you can either:

a) opt to cut it out and replace with fresh metal, this gives your work further longevity and if treated properly stops it coming back entirely
b) grind it back until you see fresh metal, if you get black spots then the rust will come back through unless you treat with an acid based treatment, I have used jenolite and so far it has stood up well to test of time.
c) sand down just what you can see and then treat, I wouldnt do this as you do need to grind it back as far as possible and then make a proper repair using a cure, zinc primer, normal primer then top coat.

It really does depend on if you want a quick fix to hold for a few months or you want it to look like a proper job.
 
You might be better off cutting it out and using the repair panels that are available for the rear wings. Then protect it like crazy or it will return.
 
+1 for replacing the metal - if it's only small, you maybe able to get it cut out and a new piece of metal fabricated rather than replacing the whole panel. As it's a proper dirt trap, just ensure that it's cleaned out on a regular basis!
 
Bitter experience tells me that if you don't cut it out it will return, and as painting and blending costs much more than the welding, it makes sense to get it cut out and replaced.

Any decent bodyshop will be able to weld in as small a section as possible invisibly - it's the most cost effective way forward.

I'm about to have the same job done on my 300CE.

As a guide, on a W126 I had, the cost of rerplacing a lot of metal in both arches, blending into the rear doors, and minor repairs to both front wings was £600 and you couldn't tell the chap had been there.
 
charan_singh said:
Guys,

I have in another thread asked for some advice on 'treating' minor surface rust in the rear arch of my C124. I've decided to get them stripped (again) 'rust treated' primered, base coated, painted and lacquered AGAIN.

I then intend to get the car waxoyled and all the rest of that malarkey afterwards.

Is there anything that you guys would recommend before, during and after this work on the arches?
Click to expand...

I have started many threads regarding rust and the treatment required
there is only one way to treat surface rust if its not perforated and many members cars have been done by me using this method, if you need any info contact me


cklclive
 
NW_Merc said:
Rust is something that builds up over time and although looks minor may well be embedded deep into the metal. Now with regards to your question you can either:

a) opt to cut it out and replace with fresh metal, this gives your work further longevity and if treated properly stops it coming back entirely
b) grind it back until you see fresh metal, if you get black spots then the rust will come back through unless you treat with an acid based treatment, I have used jenolite and so far it has stood up well to test of time.
c) sand down just what you can see and then treat, I wouldnt do this as you do need to grind it back as far as possible and then make a proper repair using a cure, zinc primer, normal primer then top coat.

It really does depend on if you want a quick fix to hold for a few months or you want it to look like a proper job.
Click to expand...

The rust was cut out 9 months ago....obviously the area wasnt properly treated to avoid me having to do this again.....want to ensure that the appropriate steps are taken the second time around.
 
CKLclive said:
I have started many threads regarding rust and the treatment required
there is only one way to treat surface rust if its not perforated and many members cars have been done by me using this method, if you need any info contact me


cklclive
Click to expand...

Im being quite **** with this guys.....it is only surface bubbling....(about 4 or five very small bubbles at best) and really very minor, but its bugging me already. The bodyshop guy even suggested I leave it until its worse. So the question is really...leave it until it warrants some metal work, or grab it now...strip, prep (properly, using the appropriate rust remedies and protection), paint and lacquer AND then protect with every remedy under the sun. Well not every remedy...but i would have hoped it would have held out longer given that the rest of the car is perfect.
 
charan_singh said:
Im being quite **** with this guys.....it is only surface bubbling....(about 4 or five very small bubbles at best) and really very minor, but its bugging me already. The bodyshop guy even suggested I leave it until its worse. So the question is really...leave it until it warrants some metal work, or grab it now...strip, prep (properly, using the appropriate rust remedies and protection), paint and lacquer AND then protect with every remedy under the sun. Well not every remedy...but i would have hoped it would have held out longer given that the rest of the car is perfect.
Click to expand...


My thoughts are have this done now before its too bad if its done right
then it will be good for many years
 
I'd make sure they use epoxy primer on the bare metal and then it shouldn't return. If that stuff can keep the forth bridge rust free with no maintenance, I reckon a c124 should be fine.
 
any one know who stocks the repair panels?
 
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