C124 - Rust prevention!

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charan_singh

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Jan 2, 2011
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Guys,

I recently had my 124 fully painted. Both front wings were replaced and the driver side rear arch was stripped back to metal and expertly repaired...as were 2 jacking points, the rear light cluster and a few other bits.

So...i want to keep it rust free as long as possible. I know those front wings are likely to rust soon enough, but what can I do to delay/prevent any rust/corrosion to the normal rust points?

Anti-corrosion techniques vary...waxoyl, grease, various anti corrosion treatments etc. Im really looking for something to apply to the inner arch areas that will offer extra protection?

Any ideas?

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=169060&Referrer=froogle

?
 
Waxoyl or Dinitrol. Either will do the job. There are others around too but these are the main players. Ours was done with dinitrol - no corrosion on wings at all so far.
 
As ^ but please do post some pictures of the car
 
Do you guys mean waxoyl sprays etc? And how should these be applied? Im thinking wheels off, inner arch areas?

Will get some pics for you...
 
The sprays are useless... They always get blocked up.

You need to thoroughly clean the area you want to apply first. Like any bodywork job, preparation is the key.

As you probably dont have access to a compressor, this is the next best thing

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WAXOYL-Hi...086?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a1588fec6


Then you use the 1L cans of waxoyl. The best way to do it is to bath the tin's in hot water for a good 10 mins before hand to get it nice and runny, this will make it easier to apply and stop the gun from blocking up. It will also creep into the crevices a lot better.
 
The sprays are useless... They always get blocked up.

You need to thoroughly clean the area you want to apply first. Like any bodywork job, preparation is the key.

As you probably dont have access to a compressor, this is the next best thing

WAXOYL High Pressure Sprayer spray gun lance | eBay


Then you use the 1L cans of waxoyl. The best way to do it is to bath the tin's in hot water for a good 10 mins before hand to get it nice and runny, this will make it easier to apply and stop the gun from blocking up. It will also creep into the crevices a lot better.

I assume you would use these products on internal areas of the arch? Im just thinking about how much of the arch itself is exposed when compared with the internal carcass? Ideally you want to hit the metal right? can definitely see how this would help with the front wings...however, as you say, need to remove as much of the debris that gets trapped in the wings first...any ideas on how to get the these areas? other than the obvious?

Many thanks
 
One thing to remember is that any preventative coating will be subject to attrition. Think of driving down the motorway in wet conditions or after road gritting and you will realise that the underside of the car is effectively being power washed and sand blasted !!! So the secret is probably to get the whole car treated thoroughly BUT to subject it to regular underbody checks [ once a year? after winter] to clean/ renew /repair any deficiencies that have arisen?
 
Bilt Hamber Dynax UB has always had rave reviews in every test I've seen. I did inside of my wheel arches and the jacking points with it in April last year and it's still holding up fine without the need for re-application. It's also very eay to apply as it comes in an aerosol.

If I were you I'd get the car cavity protected as a first course of action. Bilt Hamber seems to have great reviews for this as well.

IMHO, the skill and experience of the person applying the product is at least as important as the actual product, so if you're getting the whole car done, try and get some recommendations for people that do this kind of work regularly and can do it properly.

The best preventative measure to stop the arches rusting is to clean them properly whenever you do the car. I always get an old sponge and clean out the inside edges of the arches. It's horrific how much mulch builds up in there during an average week.
 
As millo777 says it is one of the best systems on the market with proven results time and time again, cant reccomend it enough but then again I suppose I would being
a Bilt Hamber specialist user
 
I assume you guys are referring to the application of this product after having removed the internal carcass on the inner arches?
 
Most of the systems come with a flexible injection lance that fits onto the aerosol so you can do it without removing the arch liners.

I'd check with the body shop that replaced the wings as they have already done it. I would think it would be normal practise when replacing the fornt wings?

Havign spent all that money having the car de-rusted and cleaned up I'd seriously consider a full cavity protection and underside treatment. They normally run to about £400 ish and would be well worth as peace of mind.
 
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Most of the systems come with a flexible injection lance that fits onto the aerosol so you can do it without removing the arch liners.

I'd check with the body shop that replaced the wings as they have already done it. I would think it would be normal practise when replacing the fornt wings?

Havign spent all that money having the car de-rusted and cleaned up I'd seriously consider a full cavity protection and underside treatment. They normally run to about £400 ish and would be well worth as peace of mind.

Can you recommend anyone that can do this work?
 
Olly does dinitrol for sure. He is very reasonably priced as well.
 
Im definitely going to get the car fully done....however, in the immediate term i want to treat one rear arch, it is showing very slight signs of bubbling under the paint on the inside lip (no yet visible on the arch itself)....

...im going to use the waxoyl stuff in the interim...was just wondering if I should thoroughly clean & expose the rust before coating in Waxoyl....? When i mean expose, i literally mean getting into the paint with some abrasive and exposing the rust before applying any rust treatment products?
 
Yes. remove the paint until you see good metal around the rust. Then apply the rust "cure" followed by the appropriate primers/preventers/paint. If just doing a temp job you could put the waxoyl over the "cured" rust until it can be done properly.
 
The best you can do is get some 2k epoxy primer (about £25 iirc for a litre with hardner) and apply it with a brush if it's in a non visible area, then maybe some stone chip, and finish with some wax (Dyan UB). Failing that, use either zinc primer or etch primer topped with regular primer then stone chip. All of course assuming the rust has either been removed or converted.

re having the whole car done, have a look at Rust proofing, rust prevention products for automotive: Marine:Industrial:Waxoyl and Home

I had my w140 done before Iimported it so can't recommend anyone in the UK.

If was doing my car again I'd use the Bilt Hamber system without a doubt, which I intend havign done to the w124.
 
Which is best for panels?

Painting over converted rust

or

Removing rust and filling the holes with either filler or metal and painting that?

Or does it depend on lots of different factors?
 

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