C250 CDI 204 Coup'e Limp Home

[Treacle2]

Hello Everyone,

I have a 2014 w204 coupe c250, and everything was great with it till yesterday. I was in bit of a traffic jam for about 20-30 mins engine was left running. After I cleared the traffic jam the car started to behave sluggish no power would not go above 2.5k revs. About 5 mins after the check engine light came on.

I got to where I was going and let the car sit for about an hour or so. Then drove home, where it was running ok again but engine light still on. But it didn't take long before the car lost power again and went in to limp home mode.

When I got home I scanned the ecu and got a pending P0237 code. I then reset the code and left the engine running and again the engine light came on this time with a current fault P2279. I then repeated the removing the codes and again let the engine idle and then got another code P0299. At this point I gave up.

Fast forward to this morning, after looking on YouTube and various websites during the night, I decided to check pipes and air filter, all seem fine. So I then erase the codes on more time and yeah engine light went out. I then decided to take her for a spin and she was fine, pulling well and no loss of power at all. After 10 mins of driving the engine was at about 90 degrees (ish) and then I felt a kind of splutter / hesitation in acceleration it then started to lose power and went in to limp home mode again. I managed to get home and pull the code off her and the P0237 & P2279 are now showing as pending faults.

Can anyone help ?

Thanks

 

[OneForTheRoad]

Id think p2279 is the main fault and the others are after faults caused by p2279.

P2279 Intake Air System Leak Code

 

[Treacle2]

Hi Onefortheroad,

I have just disconnected the MAF sensor and started the car. It made no difference at all, still idled ok and revved fine, all be it still with check engine light being on.

Thanks for replying.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

Hi Onefortheroad,

I have just disconnected the MAF sensor and started the car. It made no difference at all, still idled ok and revved fine, all be it still with check engine light being on.

Thanks for replying.

Why would you do that ?

 

[Deleted member 149005]

Why would you expect the EML to go out - don’t the warnings identify a stored fault not a current “ active” fault?

that says, some fault codes reset automatically after a set number of clean cycles

 

[Treacle2]

Why would you do that ?

To see if it did anything and it didnt.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

To see if it did anything and it didnt.

So the code tells you there's an intake air leak and you remove the maf .

 

[Treacle2]

So the code tells you there's an intake air leak and you remove the maf .

Thanks for your help.

 

[Tonygw]

I had a similar thing and it was a split boost pipe to the turbo. Car would run ok then splutter and lose power with a check engine light, cant remeber what code it threw up though, took mine to the indy merc specialist and thy pumped in smoke into the air intake which revealed the leak from the boost pipe.

 

[cws196]

What’s the mileage on the car? I had this when I had a C250 at around 80K and the red intake hose (driver side) had split. Tell take sign is oil mist on the hose.

 

[Treacle2]

I had a similar thing and it was a split boost pipe to the turbo. Car would run ok then splutter and lose power with a check engine light, cant remeber what code it threw up though, took mine to the indy merc specialist and thy pumped in smoke into the air intake which revealed the leak from the boost pipe.

Hi Tonygw

thanks for replying, car is booked in to a merc specialist but not till the 18th.

 

[Treacle2]

What’s the mileage on the car? I had this when I had a C250 at around 80K and the red intake hose (driver side) had split. Tell take sign is oil mist on the hose.

Hi CWS196,

thanks for that, car has 71k, i have checked the red pipe going in to the intercooler and the black one coming out and as far as i can see and feel all ok.

 

[Treacle2]

I have not long owned the car and i have maybe put 4k on. But i suspect this issue has been there all the time of owning the car.

The car has never since I've owned it been on a "long" trip, until the day before this issue popped up. Where I live there is no real opportunity to "open the taps" on her. Yes overtaking and such you do open them a bit. But i mean proper. I drove the car very relaxed, but like i said the day it happened the engine was very hot from sitting in a queue of traffic for 30-40 mins. So this got me thinking.

Can i reset the check engine light and try and drive it exactly as i normally would and would this then make the engine light come on.

So i did, i reset the light and drove the car as i would / have been took it for approx. 1hr long drive and nothing. didn't once splutter / hesitation, acted perfectly plenty of power if I needed it. But i have no doubt in my mind if i open her up the code will pop up.

 

[cws196]

At that mileage you are in the zone when the pipes can start to split, equally it could also be a faulty boost sensor.

 

[Treacle2]

At that mileage you are in the zone when the pipes can start to split, equally it could also be a faulty boost sensor.

Hi

Thanks, i have inspected the pipes but i was unable to see anything, one thing i did notice though both of them are very soft.

its a very strange issue as like i said i can get in the car now and drive it fine with no issues. But then i can give it a bit of a "hoon" a MIL light would pop up.

Thanks