C270 glow plugs & MAF

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notafordinsight

New Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2015
Messages
9
Car
2004 E270 CDI Saloon
Hi guys

New to the forum and new to a Merc so forgive me for asking stupid, previously answered questions.

I have a couple of small issues.

1. 'coil' light is staying on for about 60 secs after engine starting
2. Car starts fine from cold and ticks over but when in drive and begin to accelerate it 'chokes' and stalls. This happens once or twice until the engine seems warm and then runs like a train

From reading other posts and research it seems new glow plugs and maybe a MAF sensor are required.

I know dealers are expensive so was wondering if anyone can tell me how much I should be paying at a good indi and can anyone recommend a good indi in south Birmingham?

Cheers
 
When light stays on possibly faulty glow plug or glow plug relay
Glow plug is around 20 quid
Relay 130 around
Be careful who you give the car to for glow plugs as they can be easily broken....I have a problem with MB dealer them selfs as they broken couple on my car
You right about maf but would be quicker to put it on Star
MSL is in Birmingham and from reviews they are brilliant
 
Thanks for the reply

Have been quoted today £150 for all 5 plugs supply & fit and £80 for the sensor supply & fit. Does this sound about right?

Also, I have read on some threads that even an 'idiot' can change the MAF sensor DIY, is this something that you would recommend?

Cheers
 
Cheers
 
Do get the fault codes read before buying any parts , otherwise you could be throwing money away , even a cheap OBD code reader will point you in the right direction .

Glow plugs for the C270 are only £6 or £7 each from Euro Car Parts , depending on your preference for Bosch or Beru .

They aren't that bad a DIY job : I did mine on my E250D ( very similar 5cyl diesel engine ) a year or two back : apply plenty of penetrating oil for a week or two before starting , have engine hot before starting job , go easy removing , don't force any stubborn ones , work them gently back and forward , applying more penetrating oil , they will come out . The vibration of an air ratchet on a low torque setting can coax them out if problematic , but mine came out just using a socket set and a bit of care .

I'll be doing the ones on my C270 after the winter , along with the inlet manifold swirl flaps , thermostat and block heater ( all common 270 issues and all in the same area , so as well doing all jobs at once ) .

MAF replacement is a VERY easy job : it is located in the air intake at the front of the engine and involves taking off the plastic engine cover then undoing two torx head screws - unplug the connector then put the new one in . It really is no harder than changing a bulb .
 
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I also have the coil on for 30 sec after starting...but the car drives very well from the first moment. How does your car starts ? Smooth or is it vibrating for 5 seconds then it is ok? How about smoke?
 
mornin clatter said:
I also have the coil on for 30 sec after starting...but the car drives very well from the first moment. How does your car starts ? Smooth or is it vibrating for 5 seconds then it is ok? How about smoke?

Starts fine, first time and very smooth with no smoke at all
 
Guys,

Have had the MAF sensor diagnosed and definitely faulty. Got a good deal on one from euro car parts.

Can anyone please post a pic of where to find the sensor?

Cheers
 
Please help guys!!

Had the diagnostics done and the only fault came back as the MAF sensor as expected. Bought a new (premium) sensor from Euro car parts and fitted accordingly however the same fault continues.

First thing in the morning the car starts first time with no issues and ticks over as it should. Get the car off the drive and accelerate (steadily), as soon as I reach around 2k revs I lose power, sometimes the car will stall, other times if i take my foot off the gas quick enough the engine will continue to run but 'chokes'. This will happen for around 10 minutes after a cold start but disappears when the engine appears to 'warm up'.

Once warm, the car runs fantastic.

Once warm, I can leave the car for 2 to 3 hours and when I use again its fine. The fault only occurs from a total cold start after a night on the drive.

Any ideas?

Cheers
 
Maybe this will help
I had a problem with my S class even MB dealer couldn't say what is wrong. Bit different from yours but try this maybe
If the fault comes from maf and still exists after replacing. I would check all associated sensors linked to it. If you have access to Star go through all actual value live and I'm sure you'll find a fault. You got boost sensor, back exhaust pressure sensor, near boost sensor there is a metal intake tube sometimes its really clogged up and that will give false reading to maf. Step by step
I spend 500£ on mine for nothing as had exhaust back pressure sensor very dirty - that gave me a fault with boost pressure and maf too. Cleaning that eliminated everything. While back I had constant fault with egr which was caused by faulty turbo actuator-didn't have enough pressure for egr to operate properly
Expieriance indy is a way to go who does know its bits and doesn't want to rip you off as stealers
Hope this helps
 
The plastic fuel lines from your filter to your high pressure pump often get air in them when the o ring seals at either end start to harden with age. They are easily replaced and I would do them routinely on 270cdi engine the age of yours. You can do the seals or you can just simply buy the complete lines and seals (about £40 from merc irc).

EDIT: you may find this thread useful http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/81080-help-2002-c-270-cdi-will-not-start.html
 
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Remember to take careful note of how the two plastic pipes (feed and return) on the RHS of the high pressure pump (on the front of the engine) are routed. It looks awkward but you must replicate this or the poly belt will scrub away one of the pipes causing it to leak.
 

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