C36 non starter - Failed headgasket ???

[janner]

This guide might help with getting the head off...
PeachPartsWiki: Head Gasket Replacement

 

[HF2]

Thanks, I've spent the past few day trawling the internet for as much information as possible, I did come across that link and I've now got a copy of the guide + the Haynes manual although it doe not cover the C36.

I'll be using this company for the head checks and skimming if required - Middlesex Re-Boring Limited Middlesex Engine Rebuilding,Reconditioniner,Cylinder Boring , they are not too far from me.
Anyone on here used them before ?

Got the costs

Pressure test £48.50 - I'll have to remove the valves

Surface grinding - £50 + vat




I'll start dismantling this weekend i.e. induction pipwork, cam cover e.t.c and hopefully have the head off.

 

[HF2]

I have got the cam cover off the head, I took some pictures showing the extent of the contamination, only cylinder 2 has water in it.

Next I need to remohve the exhaust manifold, timing chain cover, all the electrical connctions and the the cylinder head.

 

[janner]

What a mess.
Line up the cams and mark the chain before you remove it. It's easy to put the chain back on the wrong cog if you don't.

 

[horgantrevor]

do you see that air filter box next to you in pic left side just pull up a few times and the whole things comes out for more room its held in by three rubber bushes that its sitting on

keep us posted

 

[grober]

The most problematic thing will probably getting the pin that secures the top of the timing chain guide out of the head. You need a slide hammer or a little made up puller to remove them. I have seen experienced mechanics tearing their hair out on this little object! Its pictured in that article Janner posted. The secret is to approach that particular task properly with the right equipment---- do it wrong and the pin gets mangled or broken!

 

[Will]

Yep - a small slide hammer and quality threaded bolt will make life much easier for the guide rail pin.

I wasn't comfortable trying to extract the pins on the MB engines I worked on with improvised pullers. The slight percussive 'shock' from the slide hammer will drift the pins out more easily and safely IMHO

Will

 

[janner]

I did mine by packing a bolt with washers and tightening it up.

 

[Dieselman]

Has that engine had a blow gasket for some time, or been left standing? I'm surprised at the amount of rust on the cam lobes.
I would look to replace the bottom end bearing shells as Glycol/water/oil mix makes an excellent acid which attacks them ferociously.

 

[HF2]

What a mess.
Line up the cams and mark the chain before you remove it. It's easy to put the chain back on the wrong cog if you don't.

I have not located the marks yet. Will they be visible when the cover over the chain is removed.

Also is it a case of having cylinder 1 on TDC and then turning the pully till my degree wheel shows 20 degrees.


On previous non MB cars I have worked on it was just a case of finding TDC on Cyulinder 1 and the marks on the pully and casing usually line up.

 

[HF2]

do you see that air filter box next to you in pic left side just pull up a few times and the whole things comes out for more room its held in by three rubber bushes that its sitting on

keep us posted

Thanks for the tip !

 

[HF2]

Has that engine had a blow gasket for some time, or been left standing? I'm surprised at the amount of rust on the cam lobes.
I would look to replace the bottom end bearing shells as Glycol/water/oil mix makes an excellent acid which attacks them ferociously.

The seller said it had been parked since Janauary, but I am begining to suspect that it had suffered the HG failure a lot earlier. I was also suprised at the rust on the cam lobes.

I am sincerely hoping that the bottom end is fine as the oil on the dipstick is the normal colour i.e. no mayo like substance.

 

[HF2]

Yep - a small slide hammer and quality threaded bolt will make life much easier for the guide rail pin.

I wasn't comfortable trying to extract the pins on the MB engines I worked on with improvised pullers. The slight percussive 'shock' from the slide hammer will drift the pins out more easily and safely IMHO

Will

I have bought a slide hammer off ebay which I'll be using for the tasks.

Any tips on removing this and the tensioner will be welcome.

 

[HF2]

Had some time on my hands today so decided to crack on with dismantling the head.

I tried undoing the exhaust manifold nuts and then realised the bottom nuts will be a pain to get to so decided to undo the 4 bolts attaching the manifilds to the down pipes.

View attachment 23071

View attachment 23072

Next I set on the chain cover but got stuck because I managet to round one of the allen bolts

View attachment 23073


Once the chain cover is removed I'll be able to line up the timing marks , slacken the chain an then start undoing the head bolts.

Looking at the inlet manifold, it looks like I'll have to leave it attached to the head because I don't want to risk rounding any more allen bolts.

 

[horgantrevor]

if you get a socket alan key set it help not to round the bolts

now i would also take off header water bottle and wash out with petrol tape up the holes and put on cap and shake it will spray out some of the tape as pressure builds but at least it will be clean from crud

also the small pipe from header tank to water pump clean it out with a pice of wire or come think long enough no sharp edges the rad will need to be cleaned i would take to a rad place and get it flushed any hoses from water pump and rad will have gunk on the bends so a clean with a cloth will be enough

with the alan key s if your not in enough dont turn some times if you tap the alan in with a small hammer or clean the bolt with a wd 40 and small screw drive to remove crub


good luck

also dont bend the loom too much on top of engine as it may break put in one position and leave alone and return gently to engine when done


if you need bits let me know i have a m104 engine here that im breaking

so if you damage a manfold or round bolts i may be able to send you over good second hand ones if i can get at them

 

[janner]

Looking at the inlet manifold, it looks like I'll have to leave it attached to the head because I don't want to risk rounding any more allen bolts.

Makes sense to leave all the manifolds attached. There are a couple of breather pipes under the inlet manifold that need to be unclipped and are easily forgotten. Ideally you'll need an engine crane to lift off the head.

 

[kth286]

anyone know the weight of the 104 engine ?

without gearbox.


and with gearbox attached.

 

[HF2]

Ideally you'll need an engine crane to lift off the head.

I've invested in an engine crane :bannana:, after my first cylinder head job I vowed i'd use an engine crane next time. I learnt the hard way when it came to putting the head back on, I had to streatch and strain just to ensure that I got the head back on with out damaging or moving the gasket.

 

[HF2]

if you need bits let me know i have a m104 engine here that im breaking

so if you damage a manfold or round bolts i may be able to send you over good second hand ones if i can get at them

Thanks for letting me know. Is your engine in bits or whole ?

 

[HF2]

The full up retail price from MBUK by a MB dealer is about £80/£90

Best to get here as you will have MBUK part warranty on it

For a full gasket set MK are quoting £81.50 + vat, head bolts & washers (14) - £58 + vat

Eurocarpats are quoting about £40 for the gasket set and £27 for the bolts.

I am tempted get the gaskets from Euro car parts but just want to know what others on this forum would suggest .

I have sourced parts from Euro car parts in the past and found them to reliable.