C36 non starter - Failed headgasket ???

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I would go with the Merc parts (100%). It is too important a job to risk the possibility of generic parts failing early.

The 104 engine has a history of head gasket leaks/failures from the start, and the head gasket has been modified several times.

They have probably got it down to a fine art now, and so why risk the chance that you will not get the latest gasket design from the original source.

I am sure there are several firms able to supply 104 gaskets, but it will only be the latest gasket spec'd by Merc that will be the most able and reliable fit.
 
Don't faff about. Get Mercedes gaskets. You know its right first time.
 
Ok Merc OE parts it will be then !
 
For a full gasket set MK are quoting £81.50 + vat, head bolts & washers (14) - £58 + vat

Headgasket from Mercedes, definitely, but why change the bolts? You need to measure them and compare to spec before deciding to replace them.
Don't buy anything until you've confirmed that the head's not cracked and the bores aren't knackered.
 
Please make sure that you re-load the chain tensioner properly. Not doing this can snap a camshaft. They are £1000+vat too as they are AMG specific.

Post a pic up of it and I will guide you how to do it properly.

We have a C36 in at the moment. The head gasket has been done by another garage and they snapped the camshaft by not loading the tensioner properly. They fitted a normal 104 cam and have timed it up so badly that it does not start.
 
this is turning out to be a great post

as so many c36 are becoming cheap and at a age that this happens its a great post for the future
 
I'll be recording my progress as I go along and at the end I hope to complie a HOW TO for the C36 Head gasket replacement.


Here is a video I uploaded to You Tube YouTube - C36 AMG - Steam from exhaust = failed gasket showing steam billowing from the exhaust


What are the chances of the CAT's being damaged due to all that steam ?
 
Having failed at all other attempts to undo the allen bolt I decided to weld an allen key to the bolt

Sacrificial allen key welded in place


View attachment 23148


Chain cover removed :bannana:



View attachment 23149

Is that the chain tensioner pin I have circled ?

View attachment 23150



Also will I be doing any damage if I use a large socket to turn the inlet cam pully when trying to set TDC ?
 
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DO NOT USE THE CAMS TO GET TDC!¬!!!!!!!! Use a 27mm socket on the crankshaft and turn clockwise only.
 
NO, that is the guide rail pin which needs to come out with either a slide hammer OR some washers and tube over it, and a bolt screwed into it.

The tensioner is over the other side of chain and lower, in side of lower timing cover.

You need to get some help via notes via haynes manual otherwise it will get expensive.
 
NO, that is the guide rail pin which needs to come out with either a slide hammer OR some washers and tube over it, and a bolt screwed into it.

The tensioner is over the other side of chain and lower, in side of lower timing cover.

You need to get some help via notes via haynes manual otherwise it will get expensive.


Ok I've found it, it's on the left hand side of the engine. Acces to it is blocked by the alternator. I'll have to remove the alternator to get to the bolt.
 
DO NOT USE THE CAMS TO GET TDC!¬!!!!!!!! Use a 27mm socket on the crankshaft and turn clockwise only.



Thanks. I looks like I'll have to access the crankshaft from underneath the car sice the cooling fan is restricting access to it from above.
 
I need help with the correct procedure for setting TDC for the AMG 104 engine.

I have not been able to find the timing marks of the casing, all I can see are the markings on the crank pulley :doh:.

From what I have read on the net TDC is set up differently on AMG engine, one has to use pilot holes drilled on the exhaust and inlet cam pullyeys to set TDC (am I right :confused:). what position should the holes be, what are the refrence points ?

Before I undo the tensioner and rail guide pin I just need confirmation that I am on the right track



Exhaust cam pulley hole (other side), allen key inserted

View attachment 23176



Inlet cam pulley hole

View attachment 23179


View of exhaust cam pulley from the other side

View attachment 23180


I will mark both the exhaust and inlet cam pulleys and chain to indicate the position of each before I undo the tensioner and take the chain off.

If anyone can shed light on this It would be much appreciated :bannana:. I am hoping I can get the head off today and if after inspection all is Ok, I'll have the new gasket fitted :thumb:.
 
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Why not stick a screwdriver (or similar) through the plug hole to help locate TDC on cylinder 1.

Rotate the crank pulley clockwise until the scredriver is pushed out to max length = TDC.

Then check against the crank marking - O/T on the crank pulley, there should be a pin on the casing.

Will
 
What,s the latest news ?
 
What,s the latest news ?


I have not made much progresss but that's due to me being busy with work, I only get to work on the car at weekends and the fact that I needed to confirm the correct settings for the cam pulleys and TDC before taking the head off.

So far I have undone the bolts attaching the intake manifold to the head, removed the alternator to enable access to the tensioner.

I have also got the information I needed to ensure that the timing and cam settings are correct: HEAD GASKET JOB STEP BYSTEP WITH PICS. - Page 6 - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum :bannana:

I'll post pictures of my progress so far at the weekend.

Although I have a busy weekend ahead, if the weather is fine, I 'll proceed with taking the head off :thumb:.
 
With some spare time on my hands this evening I was able to set TDC and mark the position of the cam pulleys

DSC_0320.jpg

DSC_0326.jpg

I have undone and removed the tensioner and now I am left with the the task of removing the guide rail pin, which is turning out to be a herculean task because it just won't budge :wallbash: !

I made a tool to extract the pin but it's not up to the task.

View attachment 23491

Any idea's for getting the pin out would be welcome :confused:.

Despite having removed the tensioner, the slack on the chain is not sufficient to allow the chain to be lifted off the cam pulley sprokets - should I remove the exhaust cam pulley ?

In the meantime I sprayed the pin with WD40 and undone all the head bolts, I'll give the pin another go sometime this week.
 
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Did you not use the slide hammer - see the earlier posts (26, 27 etc) :)
 
Did you not use the slide hammer - see the earlier posts (26, 27 etc) :)

I bought the wrong one hence the reason for making my own but the pin is stuck so fast that the threads on the bolts I am using get stripped !.
 

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