C36 Rear Brakes - the plot thickens.

[callahan]

Afternoon

As discussed in my other thread, I have been having problems with a creaking noise coming from the rear passenger side of the car. Today I had a mobile tyre fitter come round to replace the rears and asked him to keep an eye out for anything untoward...

He told me (I was at work, car was at home) that the caliper had seized, the disc was reddish as if it had overheated too many times and the pad was worn out. However, the other side was fine. Would this be a result of other issues, or am I just unlucky with a sticky caliper?

Also, what do I do next? New caliper, disc and pads will be mighty expensive and the drivers window just stopped working too!! And (almost forgot) I'm losing power on hard acceleration between 1500 and 3500rpm - it never rains

 

[rajinder_1]

Afternoon

As discussed in my other thread, I have been having problems with a creaking noise coming from the rear passenger side of the car. Today I had a mobile tyre fitter come round to replace the rears and asked him to keep an eye out for anything untoward...

He told me (I was at work, car was at home) that the caliper had seized, the disc was reddish as if it had overheated too many times and the pad was worn out. However, the other side was fine. Would this be a result of other issues, or am I just unlucky with a sticky caliper?

Also, what do I do next? New caliper, disc and pads will be mighty expensive and the drivers window just stopped working too!! And (almost forgot) I'm losing power on hard acceleration between 1500 and 3500rpm - it never rains

Hi

get disc and pads from euro car parts gsf etc

you should be able to get the caliper free and see if that resolves the issue

as for the creaking i have a 96 c180 and it does exactly the same, apparently the is a joint in there somewhere that goes not sure what it is called maybe someone will say late on in thread

the lack of power in those rev ranges more than likely the MAF sensor again gsf or euro car parts

Raj

 

[Sp!ke]

I'd start with a caliper strip and clean,, some new caliper seals and a set of rear pads. Then see if the disk needs changing or not after a week or so.

 

[kth286]

rear calipers can be a problem - I am surprised you could not smell the burning when you got out of the car after a run.

That would not cause the uneven tyre wear to the inside however, so you still have a suspension/tracking problem.

what's the history with the car - sounds problematic ?

 

[davethemus]

Dronsfields Limited, New and Used Mercedes Spare Parts

you could get anything you need from these guys.

 

[franey]

It sounds to me like you have two problems, the caliper seized is one.

The other likely cause of the squeaking noise is the bush mounted in the hub carrier, they are a common problem.

See this part:

Mercedes Rear Hub Control Arm Mount 2203520227 OEQ on eBay, also, Mercedes-Benz, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 26-Jun-09 22:23:46 BST)

 

[Alps]

agree with the above, seems like 2 seperate issues, i found 2 seized rear calipers on mine when i done the brakes, but managed to free them up without the need of a full recon of the caliper.

 

[callahan]

Thanks for all the replies.

I agree about it being two problems.

Suspension - I found a video on the 202 forums with an excellent instructional post on how to replace the bushing and that looks just the part. Still need to get a garage to do it for me though

Brakes - I do remember getting a very strong smell from that rear corner a while back after a long journey, which must have been the start of it. The disc is pitted and pad looks very low, so I'll probably need to change them both.

Engine power - shouldn't be the maf as it was new last year, might be a pressure leak somewhere, or the binding disc is affecting it?

Window - probably the usual seized motor or a new one is needed. Both rears are gone too!

The car has been great for a year now, and with the age and mileage (125k) considered, I have to put up with a big bill every now and then, it's worth it for the way it drives. Shame they all come at once though.

Cheers

 

[callahan]

Latest update.

The car has started running really rough, to the point where we're trying not to drive it at all. I've booked it back in to the main dealer on monday to see if the maf is the problem, as it is still under warranty. Fingers crossed on that one, otherwise...

I took it to Gem-Tech on thursday and he thinks it could be an injector problem if it isn't the maf, with a faulty intake making it worse. Also, the rear brakes need replacing (discs and pads 90% worn) and a new caliper on the passenger side rear. Also a new spring, new window motor, new front pads (about 70% worn), lots of labour..... so about £1,200 in total

I'd just managed to save some money for a new telly, but guess where that's going now....

Out of interest the engine problem is a total lack of power from about 2,000 rpm and a really boomy engine note. It's worse under hard acceleration and up hills and the revs at idle are dropping low (under 500rpm) and it's nearly stalling. Ideally it's the maf and Merc will do it under warranty, so I only have to pay for the brake and spring problems, cutting the bill down quite a bit. Fingers, legs, eyes all crossed for luck.

 

[kth286]

probably one of the coils gone - two cylinders down - but driveable gently.

 

[callahan]

probably one of the coils gone - two cylinders down - but driveable gently.

Two of the coils are showing intermittent faults, so it's barely driveable - more like a 2cyl 1.2 than 6cyl 3.6!

 

[abs]

hi guys, my c36 also has a creaking noise coming from the rear. does any one know how much it is to get resolved? also is t a job for the garage who can you do it yourself?

cheers

 

[callahan]

Update - Merc dealer confirmed that the maf is fine but that the ignition coils are probably the problem. This is really going to hurt. I've been considering trading it in and getting something new and sensible, considering my situation it should probably be a diesel MPV

abs - it is supposed to be easy to replace the bushes (I found info on the 202 forums but can't find it now) but I'd take it to a garage because I'm a wuss!

 

[abs]

lol no worries, ill have to give it a ago... cheers anyway

 

[callahan]

Another update - Richard at Gem-Tech has replaced the plugs, ignition coils and end caps on two of the banks of cylinders and tells me that it is now running as sweet as a nut :bannana:

He will be replacing the rear caliper, both rear discs and pads etc on Monday so with a bit of luck and a following wind I'll get it back on Tuesday.

He told me that the front pads are about 70% worn - any ideas how long they should last, roughly?

Cheers

 

[abs]

10-15k ruff driving 20-25k smooth driving

Also depends on brand i like to use ATE

 

[grober]

To honest if he's replacing one rear calliper and the discs I would get him to do both rear callipers. the cost of a reconned calliper is small compared to the labour involved unless one the callipers has been done already? I'll put it another way he will have to remove both rear callipers anyway to renew the discs so very little extra labour cost just the price of the calliper. Glad you have got the engine problem sorted -always a bit worrying till you know what's going on?? The answer to how long will the front pads last really depends on how you drive but an automatic car with a fairly big engine up front I would say 2-3k miles.

 

[callahan]

Thanks, between 2 and 25k then!

Seriously, I'll just wait a couple of months before changing them, it's just a way to keep costs down this month, that's all. Same goes for the other caliper too, strangely that side of the car is absolutely fine.

 

[grober]

Nearside probably picks up more grit and debris and maybe road salt from the side of the road? I reckon poster "abs" figures maybe refers to new pads not ones that are 70% worn??

 

[callahan]

Good point, although from looking underneath and waxoyling the whole thing, it looks like a corner has been parked in the sea for a couple of months...