C43 engine water/oil temps?

[noogieman]

when i drive my c43 and car gets proper work temperature between 80-90 degrees Celsius on coolant after a long drive, this is the correct work temp not to worry about.
i have added 3x extra VDO gauges to my console where i previously had the a$$tray, like in the 16V Cosworth car now showing me: oil pressure - oil temperature - volt meter.

i have also fitted a brand new MB BEHR radiator to my engine.

now to my question?
coolant temp reads 80-90 degrees Celsius on my cluster after fully warmed up drive.
my x-tra fitted VDO oil temp gauge always reads and stays between 80-85 degrees Celsius on oil temperature after a hard drive, should this oil temperature be OK after fully warmed up or should oil temp rise higher?

this is the gauge i have

VDO Viewline Ölthermometer / Öltemperaturanzeige (126.736/126.807) | eBay

 

[brucemillar]

You need to check the calibration of your gauge.

Drop the sender into boiling kettle. Gauge should read 100. If northern your gushed is not calibrated.

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[noogieman]

never heard of further calibration about VDO components!
does it say anything about extra calibration in the gauge manual

if i drop oil sender in hot boiling watah, would it then like reset and then read oil temperature correct when i screw it back in the oilpan bolthole?
we removed oilpan drain bolt screwed the sender there instead.

i don't understand this, what do you mean?
If northern your gushed is not calibrated.

 

[John Jones Jr]

You're not driving hard enough if the oil temp is only 80-85c! I'd expect 100c +, then again I've not experience with C43's.

 

[brucemillar]

Not extra calibration of the gauge. You need to be sure it is correctly calibrated now. To do this you need to have it read a known temp. Water boils at 100c. The sender has no idea what fluid temp it measures (water or oil).

Sump temp would be lower than engine temp would it not?

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[hotrodder]

Being new and/or being made by VDO doesn't make it infallible. Especially with leccy gauges. As Bruce said first step is, or at least should be, to confirm the gauge & it's sender are telling the truth

As said, temp sender in the bottom of the sump is gonna effect things too... coolant temp (for gauges and fan switches etc) is taken by the thermostat housing where hot coolant is leaving the engine. Some cars have a fan switch located in the bottom of the rad instead and obviously need a different temp rating for the switch, something like 88/82°C instead of the 110/100° that MB commonly use for a sensor in/near the 'stat housing
Very roughly the temp reading at the bottom of the sump is probably 10 - 15°C cooler than a reading taken from say the filter housing or an oil gallery somewhere on the cyl/head would be and if that guestimate is in the ballpark then your oil temp is about right, maybe a nats lower than ideal* [/gross generalisation]

* being pedantic the ideal oil temp range depends on various other things including the flavour of oil and viscosity range etc.

 

[noogieman]

You're not driving hard enough if the oil temp is only 80-85c! I'd expect 100c +, then again I've not experience with C43's.

i do step on the axxelarator very hard occasionally, oil temp still stays at 80-85C when car was driven for some hours.

most of the time it's old geezer driving for me, temp stays at 80-85C

Not extra calibration of the gauge. You need to be sure it is correctly calibrated now. To do this you need to have it read a known temp. Water boils at 100c. The sender has no idea what fluid temp it measures (water or oil).

Sump temp would be lower than engine temp would it not?

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i guess sump gives a lower temp than engine temp.
that's correct, sender can't tell the difference between oil and water.

 

[noogieman]

Being new and/or being made by VDO doesn't make it infallible. Especially with leccy gauges. As Bruce said first step is, or at least should be, to confirm the gauge & it's sender are telling the truth

As said, temp sender in the bottom of the sump is gonna effect things too... coolant temp (for gauges and fan switches etc) is taken by the thermostat housing where hot coolant is leaving the engine. Some cars have a fan switch located in the bottom of the rad instead and obviously need a different temp rating for the switch, something like 88/82°C instead of the 110/100° that MB commonly use for a sensor in/near the 'stat housing
Very roughly the temp reading at the bottom of the sump is probably 10 - 15°C cooler than a reading taken from say the filter housing or an oil gallery somewhere on the cyl/head would be and if that guestimate is in the ballpark then your oil temp is about right, maybe a nats lower than ideal* [/gross generalisation]

* being pedantic the ideal oil temp range depends on various other things including the flavour of oil and viscosity range etc.

thanks for your tutorial explanation.
i use mobil1 0w40 oil
this oil must have good cooling specs

when i get 80-85C in oil temp, would these numbers be a normal reading temp?
should i worry about this being a tad low in temp?
dial never reaches 90-100C when i drive my car like a car thief which randomly do happen.

this is how we install it, see my pics

these are the 2 inputs i know of to get gauge reading from oil:
oil pressure sender was screwed into oil testport next to the belt tensioner.
oil temp sender was screwed into the oil sump replacing factory bolt.

 

[optimusprime]

I do like the set up Kowalski .As i only have a small ashtray i would only be able to mount 2 guages. A volt meter for one ,and a vacuum for the other The sump temp one would be out for me .I have this magnetic sump plug in there . Nice job you have done.

 

[brucemillar]

You can buy an adaptor that will allow you to mount temp and pressure senders together. That would be preferable to using the sump.

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[noogieman]

I do like the set up Kowalski .As i only have a small ashtray i would only be able to mount 2 guages. A volt meter for one ,and a vacuum for the other The sump temp one would be out for me .I have this magnetic sump plug in there . Nice job you have done.

thank you Sire
i have to give the credit to my mechanic Güru, he did the installation on my car and he also removed the nasty ashtray.

see the last picture from Carlsson tuning a CLK208 with x-tra gauges

 

[noogieman]

You can buy an adaptor that will allow you to mount temp and pressure senders together. That would be preferable to using the sump.

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you recommend using the sump with an adapter for both senders instead of using oil testport?
does it give more accurate readings from both senders?

 

[brucemillar]

No I would personally avoid the sump altogether. I had an adapter in my Pajero that screwed into the pressure switch hole then allowed you to fit pressure and temp senses together. That was next to the filter so nice and hot.

I may still have one you can have. Let me have a look see.

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[brucemillar]

Pm your address if you want this.

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[noogieman]

No I would personally avoid the sump altogether. I had an adapter in my Pajero that screwed into the pressure switch hole then allowed you to fit pressure and temp senses together. That was next to the filter so nice and hot.

I may still have one you can have. Let me have a look see.

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oil testport use thread size M12 x 1.5 IIRC?
is it the same thread size on Mitsubishi?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281476714986?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[hotrodder]

when i get 80-85C in oil temp, would these numbers be a normal reading temp?
should i worry about this being a tad low in temp?
dial never reaches 90-100C when i drive my car like a car thief which randomly do happen.

I've never taken a temp reading using a sender in the sump drain plug so don't know for sure but it sounds about right to me and isn't something i'd worry about... sump is really the wrong place if you want to monitor things from a max oil temp POV as well as min however 80 - 85°C at the bottom of the sump is hot enough to not have to worry about the oil being too cool IMO

Dunno if it applies to a C43 but the m104 engine in my wafty old barge has an oil-water heat exchanger. If a C43 has a similar set up then over cooling the oil is gonna be pretty much impossible i.e. an oil-water heat exchanger will warm the oil initially (as coolant heats up waaaaay more quickly) as well as cool it when driving hard enough for the oil temp to get hotter than the coolant temp. Automatic trans coolers are usually built into the water radiator for the same reasons

 

[brucemillar]

oil testport use thread size M12 x 1.5 IIRC? is it the same thread size on Mitsubishi? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281476714986?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

No idea about thread size sorry.

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[brucemillar]

The more gauges and lights the more the paranoia ;^)

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[noogieman]

we want bling bling

i'll send you my address

 

[brucemillar]

Dennis I sent you a pm.

Try eBay order number. 220812875196

That looks like what you need and probably works out cheaper than postage from here ;^)

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