Calling all detailers..

[wu56Shoozz]

OK... just a quickie really... "Does Polish go off?"

Me reason for asking is I have a rather large supply of Autoglym polish that has gone soft lumpy (bit like a fart really..) but once mixed it still provides a decent shine on the paint.. I heat it up a little and give it a good mix.. and seems to work, but I just thought I ask as I've just done the van and its come up a treat....

 

[Deleted member 113659]

A few members have already done so.

 

[Charles Morgan]

Super Resin Polish has a lot of fillers in it (great for masking micro-scratching) which exist in colloidal suspension, so over time they'll drop out - go off to India, join a commune, have lots of sex and drugs - and they will be not quite the same thereafter. Waxes will harden with age but some pure spirit and an hour in the warming oven of the Aga and they will be soft again, if only for that application.

 

[Alex225]

Polishes can separate and SRP definitely does.

Give it a good shake and it'll be absolutely fine and work as it should.

I've got products I've had for years and they're all fine. Only thing that can mess with them is if they freeze apparently but assuming if they're indoors/garage no worries.

 

[wu56Shoozz]

^ As I said I heat it in boiling water (In The Can/bottle) for a bit and then give it a good shake and it seems okay once more...

 

[brucemillar]

What's is the best wash product to strip ALL wax of ready to clay and refresh the entire car please?

 

[Toobad]

I would use a naptha-based panel wipe. It's what bodyshops use to prepare the surface for painting. It is far more effective than a dilution of isopropyl alcohol and much more economic than something esoteric like Gtechniq Panel Wipe. Try here:

Panel Wipe £13.29 for 5 litres delivered

 

[Alex225]

As Toobad says you can panel wipe but to be honest if you're planning to clay and polish, that will leave a good finish for sealing/waxing

 

[markwibbs]

Fairy Liquid will do a pretty damn good job too, though is salty so best not to use on an older car.
Used to wash my black 944 with it until I knew better...

 

[sunnydude959]

OK... just a quickie really... "Does Polish go off?"

Me reason for asking is I have a rather large supply of Autoglym polish that has gone soft lumpy (bit like a fart really..) but once mixed it still provides a decent shine on the paint.. I heat it up a little and give it a good mix.. and seems to work, but I just thought I ask as I've just done the van and its come up a treat....

Yes it does go off and usually goes a bit watery. However sometimes it's not obvious, but you should find out when you do your test spot before doing the whole car (which you should be doing anyway!).

I've had super resin polish go off on me before, as well as CarLack88 (which is a shame as that's my favourite polish)

 

[J LAD]

Good paint decontamination is essential before polishing a car, and there are lots of different ways of doing this, again this depends on time and what you want to spend.
Heres a rough guide, but its all down to the individual:
1. Rinse car down, preferably with hot water pressure washer, removing as much dirt as possible.
2. Apply fall out remover, such as Iron X or Autosmart Red 7. Leave to dwell as per instructions, and again rinse off.
3. Apply a good pre-soak / de-greaser. Autosmart G101, ValetPro Citrus wash, etc are good, but there are loads out there that do the same job. if budget is tight use " Stardrops ", its safer than washing up liquid.
Nows the time to use a soft hog hair brush and clean all badges, window seals, nooks and cranies etc. Rinse off again.
4. Snow foam car - optional stage - could be linked in with above?
5. Wash car - lambs wool mitt - 2 bucket method - rinse off.
6. Clay the car - this should pick up and remove any deep embedded particles trapped in the paint.
7. Final rinse off or dependent on clay bar lube used, you could wash once more.
8. If you are going straight to wax then a good wipe down with pure IPA is always recommended and should be sufficient.

Remember - "a clay bar is an aggressive product", it can leave surface marring in some paints, or paint that has deep embedded particles. I always machine polish after claying a car, either a DA or Rotary. If unsure check paint in sunlight or use a suitable light source.

It really does depend on what condition the paint is in, have a good feel with your hands, some detailers wear nytrile gloves as any resistance in the paint surface is soon picked up by the glove.
There are some good time saving products out there now so take advantage of them. I really like Red 7, its almost on par with claying a car so saves time and money.

 

[Doodle]

Shouldn't the fallout remover come at least after the snow foam, or preferably the wash stage? Otherwise you're wasting most of what you apply on the dirt, rather than the contaminants that matter.

 

[J LAD]

To be honest, i have tried using the fallout remover at different stages of the wash process and it doesnt make much difference.
If i was going to change anything i would start with a good de-grease first using G101 or similar, this will remove all the dirt from the car when applied via a foam lance.
I suppose my thinking here is that Red 7 and G101 are fairly strong chemicals, so foaming and washing in the last stages should remove any trace of them before drying off.
I did an experiment once on a car i regularly maintain, as i was going to give it a quick once over with the DA, i thought i would see what it would take to remove all the wax from the car.
Rinsed off and applied G101 neat all over the car, left to dwell and rinsed off. Paint still beading water.
In the end it needed 3 stages of the above before the beading stopped.

 

[J LAD]

Oh! and be carefull if using Prep Solve to wipe down your paints surface.
I was detailing a Range Rover once at Guy Salmon, and wanted to remove some old masking tape that had been left on the bonnet after PDI inspection.
Their valeter knew best and poured prep solve all over the bonnet.
Yeah sure it removed the tape but it also melted the front grill!

 

[Doodle]

To be honest, i have tried using the fallout remover at different stages of the wash process and it doesnt make much difference.

These cars must be much cleaner than mine then!

 

[001]

The Word detailer needs to be removed from this thread . G101 etc eekk!!

 

[Liquid silver]

Oh! and be carefull if using Prep Solve to wipe down your paints surface.
I was detailing a Range Rover once at Guy Salmon, and wanted to remove some old masking tape that had been left on the bonnet after PDI inspection.
Their valeter knew best and poured prep solve all over the bonnet.
Yeah sure it removed the tape but it also melted the front grill!

I assume that you are a professional detailer. I have just bought a 2012 CL63, can you recommend a good product to remove wheel balance weight residue. I have tried Autoglym Tar and Glue remover to no avail. Thanks for any advice.

 

[martyz]

I assume that you are a professional detailer. I have just bought a 2012 CL63, can you recommend a good product to remove wheel balance weight residue. I have tried Autoglym Tar and Glue remover to no avail. Thanks for any advice.

Lighter fuel will work a treat.

 

[Cyclone1]

The Word detailer needs to be removed from this thread . G101 etc eekk!!

What's wrong with G101? What would you recommend in its place?

Jules

 

[Toobad]

I assume that you are a professional detailer. I have just bought a 2012 CL63, can you recommend a good product to remove wheel balance weight residue. I have tried Autoglym Tar and Glue remover to no avail. Thanks for any advice.

This has been the go-to product for DIY de-badging clean-up work since the beginning of time. It will work just as well on wheel weight residue.

Goo Gone £5.49 delivered