Central Locking

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cl55 amg

Active Member
Joined
May 28, 2009
Messages
561
Location
Manchester
Car
CL55 AMG
Looks like the CL55 is playing up again :wallbash: for some reason the doors/boot will not open or lock without using the blade the alarm will disarm but will not open the doors.
Also the lock function on the dash is not working either, does anybody have any ideas? does it look like the PSE control module..


Regards
 
and sadly, will probably blow again (and again).

I don't have the same model, but I've had the same problem which turned out to be a PSE pump about to go into self destruct mode. One of the compressor rotors had broken so initially just drew too much current, blowing the fuse every now and then - unit eventually jammed solid & had to be replaced.
 
and sadly, will probably blow again (and again).

I don't have the same model, but I've had the same problem which turned out to be a PSE pump about to go into self destruct mode. One of the compressor rotors had broken so initially just drew too much current, blowing the fuse every now and then - unit eventually jammed solid & had to be replaced.

Will keep that in mind, did you have to change the whole PSE module.
 
100% identical problem last night with my CL500. Was there a frost where you were?
I can more or less predict this happening 100% by looking to see if there is frost on the car.

Basically there is a little water in the pump, on a cold night it freezes. Next day the pump wont start, the 20a PSE pump fuse, f62 (under the back seat) goes pop, and we get exactly all those symptoms. If I lock the car with the blade, it also has a sleepless night because it isn't shutting down properly, and next day the battery may be flat.

i came on here to ask what next, no coincidence I'm not the only one after a cold night.

Options

1) Put up with it, lock the car with the blade and sing it lullabies / read it bedtime stories to help it go to sleep at night. Soft close I can do without, but I could do with boot access and reliable cold starts at stupid O'clock in the morning.

2) (Current situation) Buy a big f*** off bag of 20a fuses from BMS. Put in central armrest (NOT the boot) with a pair of long nose pliers to pull fuse f62. Replace as necessary. Wonder about selling the car when it gets warmer.

3) Throw £600 or so at the situation and get the pump changed. A reset on a STAR machine is needed, at least I can ask them to check if my massage seats are turned on (same pump - never worked).

I am wondering if there is an option 4 - wait till its warmer, run the pump with a hose off and try to blow the damp air out.
 
Update, rang my local specialist, CL500 PSE pump is £676.80 fitted and coded.

I could buy a lot of 20 Amp fuses for that much, though.
 
100% identical problem last night with my CL500. Was there a frost where you were?
I can more or less predict this happening 100% by looking to see if there is frost on the car.

Basically there is a little water in the pump, on a cold night it freezes. Next day the pump wont start, the 20a PSE pump fuse, f62 (under the back seat) goes pop, and we get exactly all those symptoms. If I lock the car with the blade, it also has a sleepless night because it isn't shutting down properly, and next day the battery may be flat.

i came on here to ask what next, no coincidence I'm not the only one after a cold night.

Options

1) Put up with it, lock the car with the blade and sing it lullabies / read it bedtime stories to help it go to sleep at night. Soft close I can do without, but I could do with boot access and reliable cold starts at stupid O'clock in the morning.

2) (Current situation) Buy a big f*** off bag of 20a fuses from BMS. Put in central armrest (NOT the boot) with a pair of long nose pliers to pull fuse f62. Replace as necessary. Wonder about selling the car when it gets warmer.

3) Throw £600 or so at the situation and get the pump changed. A reset on a STAR machine is needed, at least I can ask them to check if my massage seats are turned on (same pump - never worked).

I am wondering if there is an option 4 - wait till its warmer, run the pump with a hose off and try to blow the damp air out.

spot on mate, it was a frozen morning when it went pop. Looking at your option i think option 2 is th best option :thumb:
 
It lurks in the front left corner of the boot, above all the Comand gubbins. Looks like a yellow sponge brick on mine, with pipes coming out.

Sadly mine has got worse, I guess once you fire the pump up when its frozen you damage it - the garage said I'd be back after they first diagnosed it.

I think Ixi was right when he said

and sadly, will probably blow again (and again).

I just blew another 2 fuses checking if all was well and the battery charged up today (it was, but not for long).

Option 3 is looming, I'm off to Barclays online now to check my balance... :devil:
 
Has this caused issues with your battery draining? only ask as I have had intermittent issues over the last few months and the auto electrician couldn't find any faults
 
When I lock it with the metal key, or leave it unlocked, it has a sleepless night, and drains the battery overnight fretting. A new battery when this first happened made no difference.

I do have Keyless Go, FWIW.

These cars take 40 minutes to shut down totally at the best of times. Why 'off' doesn't just turn all the power off other than the clock and alarm beats me.

My friend has a CL500 as well, and popped his first F62 last weekend. He's in denial, but I'm sure will be looking into a new PSE pump soon.
 
Has this caused issues with your battery draining?

Sorry to drag this up again, I haven't changed my PSE pump yet, the last 2 weeks have been warmer and the issue hasn't arisen.

Last night it was as cold as a cold thing, but I used the car during the day, and it seemed to lock up fine. Today, the fuse is still OK, but the boot won't open, I had to unlock using the metal key, and until I pulled the fuse, I could hear the pump whirring and clicking. All this was predictable, but WHY, when I came out was the battery too flat to start the car?

When this trouble started, just before Christmas, I had a new OEM battery fitted, at vast expense.

I can live without reliable locking in very cold weather (almost), but NOT random unexplained flat batteries.
 
Sorry to drag this up again, I haven't changed my PSE pump yet, the last 2 weeks have been warmer and the issue hasn't arisen.

Last night it was as cold as a cold thing, but I used the car during the day, and it seemed to lock up fine. Today, the fuse is still OK, but the boot won't open, I had to unlock using the metal key, and until I pulled the fuse, I could hear the pump whirring and clicking. All this was predictable, but WHY, when I came out was the battery too flat to start the car?

When this trouble started, just before Christmas, I had a new OEM battery fitted, at vast expense.

I can live without reliable locking in very cold weather (almost), but NOT random unexplained flat batteries.

I would guess it's been cycling all night long, so drained the battery.

Apparently the wizards designers at MB decided that the alarm system should, rather than await a drop in current when someone opens a door, just try to lock them every so often to make sure. Whether that's true or not, it seems that the PSE hasn't been told the doors were locked so kept on trying.

It should only cycle for about 20 seconds a time then shut off to avoid burning itself out and flattening the battery. That might actually be the root cause of blowing fuses, but I don't know how it decides time to give in.

In answer to your earlier question (sorry, I missed that) I did have mine changed - the rotor mechanism with the sliding vanes was chewed up completely, so about £700 for a bit that possibly cost £5.00 but you cannot buy it separately
 
I've not had this problem... Had to get a new battery last month though as mine went flat overnight in the cold weather.
 
Right, had the PSE pump done yesterday at AMG Hyde, and all is well again, but it turned out the battery going flat was a separate issue.

A mechanic sat in the car with the motion sensor disabled and everything turned off, until he heard a clicking and watched the steering wheel slowly moving downwards, and a heavy current drain registered.

The odd thing was that the 'easy entry' was already switched off at the menu, but it was turned off properly with STAR. Hopefully that should be an end to it. He told me he did the same thing locking himself in an S Class once, and after a long shutdown the dash suddenly came to life!

My mate gave me a lift to get the car in his own CL500 (I bought mine while looking for a car for him), and following a blown PSE fuse before Christmas, lo and behold his central locking has been playing up this week. Having seen what mine cost, he is not best pleased, but resigned to the possibility his pump is on the way out as well.
 
Looks like the CL55 is playing up again :wallbash: for some reason the doors/boot will not open or lock without using the blade the alarm will disarm but will not open the doors.
Also the lock function on the dash is not working either, does anybody have any ideas? does it look like the PSE control module..


Regards
At last having navigated my way round the hardest to use web site in the world....sufferers of the same anguish as me..
My CL seemed to have a mind of its own .....pne minute it would lock and unlock ..leave it until the evening and it wont open...
Unlock with blade , push some buttons then it works but now nothing..
Worse than that my blade wont open the boot so I can get some jump leads on the battery..
Also alarmingly when the car had charge , if you opened the car and then put in electronic key (not keyless go) it just wouldnt turn...but MB assured me even with the alarm going the key would start the car....
How do you find fuse F62??
Someone please help before I go insane...
 
Worse than that my blade wont open the boot so I can get some jump leads on the battery..

The AA man showed me there is a plastic cap over the +ve feed nut on the alternator, you have to pull the N/S air tube off to get at it. You can jump or charge it from here, the -ve goes on any exposed metal. It is important not to disconnect the jump leads for a couple of minutes, you can fry an expensive SAM unit if you do.

Fuse F62 is behind the little panel under the rear drivers side seat, slide it left to unclip it without braking the tags. Its the yellow 20A one in the middle of some others , top left.
 
i have this issue with my s320 and like many others don't have the manual, could anyone let me know the fuse box position and fuse number,

thanks
 

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