Changing coolant at 10 years - should I change the radiator?

[MrGreedy]

I'm going to change the coolant over the next few months (as soon as weather depending), and I've got the aux belt and tensioners to do, so I will change those at the same time.
I'm also considering a new intercooler, as a few months ago when fitting a new air con condenser, the intercooler looked like it had seen many better days.
88k miles and 10 years old.

I'll therefore strip off the bumper and all of the cooling fan and gubbins around the top front of the engine to do the belts, so I was wondering if this would be the time to change the radiator?





Intercooler part No. A2045000200, same for 2 liter and 3 liter diesels on the W212 E class.
Mahle part No. CI 357 000P (confirmed on the Mahle Tech Doc site) can probably be had for close to £100 from Autodoc with a 40%+ sale:

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/mahle-original/15290669

Radiator part No. A2045003603.
Mahle part No. CR 1176 000S (confirmed on Mahle site) can probably had for close to £120 from Autodoc with a 40%+ sale:

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/mahle-original/15292832

 

[mioba]

If it aint broke......

 

[markjay]

I replaced the thermostat on my W203 when it was 9 years old. I was surprised to see how clean the old thermostat and housing were, no sediment or staining or corrosion anywhere. I am assuming that this was thanks to the 15 years factory-filled coolant. On that basis, I wouldn't replace the radiator. Why are you replacing the coolant, BTW?

 

[mioba]

Why are you replacing the coolant, BTW?

I think reading Mr G post above he is just looking for something to do. he he he

 

[MrGreedy]

I replaced the thermostat on my W203 when it was 9 years old. I was surprised to see how clean the old thermostat and housing were, no sediment or staining or corrosion anywhere. I am assuming that this was thanks to the 15 years factory-filled coolant. On that basis, I wouldn't replace the radiator. Why are you replacing the coolant, BTW?

Because to my understanding, to change all the aux belt and tensioners, the radiator and fan need to come out to give a hope in hell's chance of giving enough room from above. I therefore need to put new coolant in. As I'm there, for another £120, I could put a new rad in. But if the consensus is put the old rad back in as it will have years left, then I can do that.

 

[markjay]

Because to my understanding, to change all the aux belt and tensioners, the radiator and fan need to come out to give a hope in hell's chance of giving enough room from above. I therefore need to put new coolant in. As I'm there, for another £120, I could put a new rad in. But if the consensus is put the old rad back in as it will have years left, then I can do that.

Go by condition.......?

 

[MrGreedy]

My other thought it that if the rad goes, it could leave me in a jam (although a leak would *probably* give me enough time to get home), and if I'm in a pickle and need a garage to sort it ASAP it will be £300 for the rad plus fitting. Another £200? Hence £120 might be worthwhile preventative maintenance. I intend of keeping the car a good few more years.
I did have a look at the radiator condition when I changed the air con condenser, and I do think it as more time on it compared with the condenser. I'd guess at 2 to 5 years.
To be honest, I'd pay £120 now so that I can take advantage of it literally taking me zero extra time to do the job now rather than having to strip the thing in a few years time.

 

[MrGreedy]

I think reading Mr G post above he is just looking for something to do. he he he

It will take me zero more time to put a new rad in, because the old one has to come out, hence thinking of doing it now.

 

[Smiley]

I'm surprised that the belts and tensioner need changing at 88k miles and 10 years. Are you sure they even need doing? No point changing the rad; it could well outlast the rest of the car.

 

[phobos]

Just a quick note, I maanged to take the intercooler twice ( one on my past and also on my current ) OM642 based cars, without taking out the bumper out ( both times because of leaking AC condensers). I would be tempted to leave the radiator alone, unless there is an issue with it, Is is even protected from driving hazards like stones by the AC condenser, so unless it is leaking or impact damaged, I would leave it. ( save your money for the AC condenser when /if it goes).

 

[slade1]

Am not surprised the belt tensioner need changing. It let go on my CLK M272, no warning, at 83K miles and caused other problems.
The shredded belt wrapped it's self round the crank shaft between block and pulley.

 

[chic0821]

Originally, my first thoughts were get it pressure tested & if ok leave alone. but now, for £120, I think I would change it as everything in that area is done with no more worries especially if its a keeper. If you are thinking about change or not and you don't, it will always be nagging away at you thinking of problems that will probably never happen & you will be fixated on the temp gauge seeing an imaginary increase.
I'm good at spending other peoples money

 

[Petrol Pete]

If you watch various you tube content many will remove the fan and its cowling on some cars to make life easier (many are designed that way) but the radiator normally stays put.

You have a V6 in an E class I have a V8 in a C class and I changed the belt without removing the fan housing. I have not looked in your engine bay but I doubt very much that it has less access than mine.

Having said that If I were to do it again and replace various other bits at the same time I would almost certainly remove my fan/cowling.

 

[MrGreedy]

I've already got the belt, idlers and tensioners, so it's not just the belt. I can't even squeeze a flat hand in with the fan in place. The official Merc instructions show removal of the radiator as well, which given the lack of access doesn't surprise me. I'll see when I tackle the job.

 

[Petrol Pete]

Fair play . It appears MB has managed to make access to service parts on a smaller engine in a bigger car more troublesome. Not sure that anyone would be surprised at that .

Let us know how it all goes.

 

[pillow]

Do it.

For me jobs fall into one of two categories:

1. If it breaks it will leave me stranded.
2. If it breaks it will leave me inconvenienced.

I do stuff for number one preventatively, and regularly.

I do stuff preventatively for number two when I get a bit bored and feel like being productive.

I've never been left stranded by any of my vehicles and have only ever had one advisory on an MOT in my time owning cars (10 years now)

On BMWs it's normally customary to replace the entire cooling system at around 100k miles.

Also; I think the thing that makes Mercedes coolant last "10 years" rather than the usual 3 is the presence of a silica packet in the expansion tank, so you should replace that too if you want to keep the 10 year coolant interval.

 

[TeddyRuxpin]

You know you’re gonna do it, I know you’re gonna do it, we all know you’re gonna do it

 

[TeddyRuxpin]

By the way, didn’t they do the oil cooler seals on yours? Doesn’t that mean the coolant would have been done then? At least most of it?

My coolant looked brand new when I flushed it, and I can only assume it’s because of how much is lost when doing the oil cooler seals.

Still, easy enough to do, and if the radiator is coming off in any case…

 

[MrGreedy]

By the way, didn’t they do the oil cooler seals on yours? Doesn’t that mean the coolant would have been done then? At least most of it?

My coolant looked brand new when I flushed it, and I can only assume it’s because of how much is lost when doing the oil cooler seals.

Still, easy enough to do, and if the radiator is coming off in any case…

I think the coolant change on the oil cooler job is only a couple of pints.
Besides, it's the rad coming out to change the aux belt and tensioners that's driving this.

The silica packet that's mentioned above I need to look into.

 

[TeddyRuxpin]

Yes, interested to hear more about that.