MrGreedy
MB Enthusiast
Hi all,
I thought it was worth posting a little guide on here about changing the refrigerant line that runs from the bottom of the condenser to the compressor.
It's about 40cm in length, with a rubber section in the middle.
Part number A2048305216, £50ish delivered from MB Grangemouth.
I looked for info online, but couldn't find any guides. I tried looking through WIS, but could find everything EXCEPT how to change the line (hose), so I thought I would just give it a crack and see how hard it is.
I had already fitted a Mahle AC 786 000P condenser. All able to be done without getting under the car.
In summary, that was undertrays off, bumper off, intercooler off and brackets off, remove the plastic casing from the edges of the condensers and wiggle the old one out and then new one in. Then refit the plastic casings. It's quite easy to remove and refit the plastic casing in-situ, but the condenser won't fit through 'the gap' if the black plastic casing down the edge is still attached (the casing is push-fit).
forums.mbclub.co.uk
When removing the old condenser, it became apparent that the lower connecter was corroded and stuck fast into the old condenser. The bolt head snapped and when I tried to drill the bolt out I I didn't manage to get it perfectly straight so I damaged the block on the end of the pipe (I was on the floor, laying down, without a mounting jig). So, I cut the pipe off the condenser by cutting the metal tube with an adjustable copper pipe cutter, and one of the rubber bungs removed from the new condenser where the pressure sensor fits just happened to fit the hole in the end of the cut pipe, so I popped that in and gaffer taped it in place whilst I waited for the new refrigerant line to arrive. Obviously, I didn't have the pipe to hand as I didn't plan on replacing it. I've changed condensers on other cars of this age (10 years) with little problem, so the amount of bolt/thread corrosion was a surprise and basically had ruined any chances of keeping the hose.
So, on to changing the hose.
Front under tray off.
Engine cover off.
Air panel off (the one above the slam panel/cross member just behind the grill).
Unclip the batwing passenger/LHS.
Remove the air filter and upper housing (torx bolt).
Remove the air ducting/piping that feeds the bottom of the air filter lower housing.
Remove the air filter lower housing using Tx star socket bolt, and the lower housing just pulls upwards out of two push-fit grommets.
You can now just about see the head of the refrigerant line down the side of the engine - make sure you get the correct one, as there are two. In my case, it was the one towards the front of the car.
Unbolt the refrigerant line with another Torx bit. I found I was able to put my arm(s) down into the space at the side of the engine whilst standing in front of the car, and I could manage this with a 1/4" ratchet (admittedly, 1/30th of a turn at a time, which was pretty much one click of the ratchet. You don't want to do this with a hot engine, as you will not be able to avoid touching the engine.
The bolt in this location was bone dry, and thankfully not a hint of any corrosion anywhere.
The refrigerant line then very very easily wiggled free from the compressor, and pretty much just pulls up and out of the way.
I then coated the seal on the compressor end of the new line with PAG oil and lowered the line into position, being careful to not get any dusty engine bay debris on the oily seal.
It all fitted and bolted together relatively easily, making sure to start the bolt with fingers only to avoid cross-threading and damaging the compressor (then I would be knackered!)
An assistant with one arm under the front bumper holding the new line in approximately the correct position would help massively here, as it would help the line be rotated correctly when trying to fit back on to the compressor.
There was no chance I was getting a torque wrench in there, so I just did it up carefully by hand until I felt the compressor and new hose faces had seated sufficiently.
Then, just repeat the above for the connection on the bottom of the condenser, which is easily accessible from just underneath the front of the car.
Refit everything.
Go for pressure test and regas (next week).
I didn't take the wheels off for this, but I did jack the car up enough at one side to get a small axle stand under the front jacking point, just to give me a bit more room to be able to look up under the car.
I also left the jack in place under the side jacking point taking some load, although lowered this down a bit so both front wheels were on the floor.
I didn't need to get under the car at any point - all the work under the car was done simply by reaching under the front with one arm whilst laying on the floor.
I currently don't do any work at all that requires me to get under my car.
I do have engine mounts to do at some point, but I'm just assessing options for drive on ramps so that the full weight of the car is supported on the wheels. I'll also add axle stands under the sills. Can't be too careful, and the thought of getting under cars isn't the most appealing in the world.
I thought it was worth posting a little guide on here about changing the refrigerant line that runs from the bottom of the condenser to the compressor.
It's about 40cm in length, with a rubber section in the middle.
Part number A2048305216, £50ish delivered from MB Grangemouth.
I looked for info online, but couldn't find any guides. I tried looking through WIS, but could find everything EXCEPT how to change the line (hose), so I thought I would just give it a crack and see how hard it is.
I had already fitted a Mahle AC 786 000P condenser. All able to be done without getting under the car.
In summary, that was undertrays off, bumper off, intercooler off and brackets off, remove the plastic casing from the edges of the condensers and wiggle the old one out and then new one in. Then refit the plastic casings. It's quite easy to remove and refit the plastic casing in-situ, but the condenser won't fit through 'the gap' if the black plastic casing down the edge is still attached (the casing is push-fit).
Which aftermarket aircon condenser - Original part No. A2045000654 | Parts, Maintenance & Servicing
Hi, I have a condenser leak on my w212. Original part number is A2045000654. I believe original manufacturer was Denso. Mercedes supplied unit is £300. Denso parts catalogue and Autodoc list Denso part DCN17035 for about £150. Search for part number via Denso website here...
forums.mbclub.co.uk
When removing the old condenser, it became apparent that the lower connecter was corroded and stuck fast into the old condenser. The bolt head snapped and when I tried to drill the bolt out I I didn't manage to get it perfectly straight so I damaged the block on the end of the pipe (I was on the floor, laying down, without a mounting jig). So, I cut the pipe off the condenser by cutting the metal tube with an adjustable copper pipe cutter, and one of the rubber bungs removed from the new condenser where the pressure sensor fits just happened to fit the hole in the end of the cut pipe, so I popped that in and gaffer taped it in place whilst I waited for the new refrigerant line to arrive. Obviously, I didn't have the pipe to hand as I didn't plan on replacing it. I've changed condensers on other cars of this age (10 years) with little problem, so the amount of bolt/thread corrosion was a surprise and basically had ruined any chances of keeping the hose.
So, on to changing the hose.
Front under tray off.
Engine cover off.
Air panel off (the one above the slam panel/cross member just behind the grill).
Unclip the batwing passenger/LHS.
Remove the air filter and upper housing (torx bolt).
Remove the air ducting/piping that feeds the bottom of the air filter lower housing.
Remove the air filter lower housing using Tx star socket bolt, and the lower housing just pulls upwards out of two push-fit grommets.
You can now just about see the head of the refrigerant line down the side of the engine - make sure you get the correct one, as there are two. In my case, it was the one towards the front of the car.
Unbolt the refrigerant line with another Torx bit. I found I was able to put my arm(s) down into the space at the side of the engine whilst standing in front of the car, and I could manage this with a 1/4" ratchet (admittedly, 1/30th of a turn at a time, which was pretty much one click of the ratchet. You don't want to do this with a hot engine, as you will not be able to avoid touching the engine.
The bolt in this location was bone dry, and thankfully not a hint of any corrosion anywhere.
The refrigerant line then very very easily wiggled free from the compressor, and pretty much just pulls up and out of the way.
I then coated the seal on the compressor end of the new line with PAG oil and lowered the line into position, being careful to not get any dusty engine bay debris on the oily seal.
It all fitted and bolted together relatively easily, making sure to start the bolt with fingers only to avoid cross-threading and damaging the compressor (then I would be knackered!)
An assistant with one arm under the front bumper holding the new line in approximately the correct position would help massively here, as it would help the line be rotated correctly when trying to fit back on to the compressor.
There was no chance I was getting a torque wrench in there, so I just did it up carefully by hand until I felt the compressor and new hose faces had seated sufficiently.
Then, just repeat the above for the connection on the bottom of the condenser, which is easily accessible from just underneath the front of the car.
Refit everything.
Go for pressure test and regas (next week).
I didn't take the wheels off for this, but I did jack the car up enough at one side to get a small axle stand under the front jacking point, just to give me a bit more room to be able to look up under the car.
I also left the jack in place under the side jacking point taking some load, although lowered this down a bit so both front wheels were on the floor.
I didn't need to get under the car at any point - all the work under the car was done simply by reaching under the front with one arm whilst laying on the floor.
I currently don't do any work at all that requires me to get under my car.
I do have engine mounts to do at some point, but I'm just assessing options for drive on ramps so that the full weight of the car is supported on the wheels. I'll also add axle stands under the sills. Can't be too careful, and the thought of getting under cars isn't the most appealing in the world.
