CL500 buyers guide

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Mo2312

Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2016
Messages
56
Location
Nottingham
Car
W220 S500 AMG sport
Hi All

Looking to go from my. Clk350 sport to a 2002 CL500, any tips what to look for when getting one, I've heard about air suspension etc, how best to check it on a test drive when viewing one.
Always fancied a CL, will be looking at 2002 year or maybe a facelift if I could a good one in spec I want.



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Get one inspected before you buy. They can be complete money pits. The suspension is hydraulic, not air on the CL. FYI its £1000 for one shock absorber....
 
Definitely get someone to look it over

Definitely get someone who knows that they are doing to look it over. Think of these as £100k cars being sold as a discount. These are not just fancy CLK's.

The good news about the hydraulic ABC system is that it gives a superb S class ride.

The bad news is that, at some point in time, the suspension system will require maintenance.

If you're not prepared to pay a chunk of money to maintain a 15 year old CL500, buy another CLK.
 
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I'm going into ownership with eyes open, I'm aware they will need maintenance, prepared for that, I've owned a BMW e36 m3 smg that always had its hand in my pocket, I've always wanted one, just love the shape and the comfort and power.
How much do reckon a good indy would charge to give one a good going over or pre inspection sale


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I charge an hours labour to look a car over at my workshop.

Budget 3-5k pa for running it.
 
I charge an hours labour to look a car over at my workshop.

Budget 3-5k pa for running it.

Mine has cost me brakes all round in the last 8 months. If the ABC gives out I'll spend £1000 on coil overs.

I know some are money pits, but by no means all.
 
I have a very nice 2003 55 Kompressor for sale :thumb:
 
Hi,

They are beautiful, comfortable, ...and can pick up their skirts and hustle! :)

I've had mine for 18mths...first year bills had come to around £1k inc ABC pulsation damper and fluid change, and the electroplate in the auto box & flid n filter.

I've just had front lower arms, ball joints, track rod ends, gearbox mount, and rear subframe mounts, service and exhaust repair -£2k- so hopefully that's it for another year :) so a bit less than some may think. Maybe I've been lucky.

There are good ones out there, I looked at a few - and walked away from many as they has issues.

You've said you have your eyes open, so I'm assuming you have searched threads on here and maybe other forums too, and read about probs and fixes.

Squeaks from front end whilst driving may well be ball joints, which require lower suspension arm change. Look at the boots on the ball joint, have they been pierced to allow lithium grease to be sprayed in (masks squeak).

Check suspension goes up and down on the button, try it a few times, check dampers are not wet with hydraulic fluid.
- there is lots more knowledge out there now about the ABC system and rebuilt valve blocks and pumps are available.

Check all the electrics work - especially all items on doors as the wiring loom can break at door hinge area - easy fix, but factor in costs, and fact it could be the item fried, not loom!

Corrosion at C pillar/ rear wing bubbling paint is galvanic corrosion £££ - bottom of doors can suffer too.

If it has keyless entry, check it works, replacement keys unavailable from MB, and you cannot code other keys to replace. Keyless door handle can fail requires new door handles and coding. ££

If the boot doesn't sit flush with the body it will need new hinges.

Read service history, has it been cared for, be careful with cars that have been unused for long time (a) why? (B) cars don't like being unused, seals dry out, tyres flat spot, etc.

Wayne Gates MB specialist in Harrow has a Silver CL55 kompressor for sale, prev owned by another forum member. - and he is a great independant specialist, he looks after my W215 :)
Hope you find a good one :)
 
Front brake pads are easy, did mine with EBC pads, took me an hour, £50 :)
 
The above is a brilliant guide IMO

There are also a lot of folk in the US swapping away from the ABC system for traditional Coil overs

I know a my old CL500 is for sale currently in Kent, Its had recent newish shocks, ABC Pipes and valve blocks, Fluids filters and no corrosion - Was a lovely car, well spec'd with Keyless (works but the button the door handles doesn't as mentioned above) massage seats etc

Good service history - hes looking for around the £2750 mark. I ran it daily for a 18 months before moving up to my CL63 - Edit - Its a 2000 car pre-facelift so might not fit what you are looking for
 
The above is a brilliant guide IMO

There are also a lot of folk in the US swapping away from the ABC system for traditional Coil overs

I know a my old CL500 is for sale currently in Kent, Its had recent newish shocks, ABC Pipes and valve blocks, Fluids filters and no corrosion - Was a lovely car, well spec'd with Keyless (works but the button the door handles doesn't as mentioned above) massage seats etc

Good service history - hes looking for around the £2750 mark. I ran it daily for a 18 months before moving up to my CL63 - Edit - Its a 2000 car pre-facelift so might not fit what you are looking for



have you got a link to the car


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thanks for the great advice, the search is now on, my clk is a lovely car, time to sell her and upgrade


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have you got a link to the car


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I shall find one for you. I dont know if the ad has gone live yet. It was mentioned to me on Sunday it was time to sell as he has just bought a 309 GTi of all things and doesn't have the room for them all
 
I ran a CL500 for 5 years, a 2000 model with 78k miles, I sold it with 130k miles on the clock. It had nearly every option, even active cylinder shutdown, the only options it didn't have were tyre monitoring and the electrically closing boot lid.
Regarding the ABC system, I only had one rear right shock fail and that was because of corrosion on the pneumatic cylinder, I also had to replace the pulsation damper, that's all. I did do a complete flush of the hydraulic oil to help prolong the life of the components - essential if you want to keep the ABC system healthy. Other wear and tear items were the front suspension bushes, some of these can only be replaced by buying the complete alloy arms. The exhaust is a heavy system and although it is stainless steel and doesn't corrode, the hangers are mild steel and quite a few welds failed which needed re-welding.
Bodywork is the main issue, C-pillars are prone to water leaking past the rubber seal and causing aluminium oxidisation to creep under the paint. The double glazed glass on the driver's and passenger's front windows can start to delaminate - tiny bubbles start to appear in the lamination. Front tyres can wear on the inside edge due to the camber these cars run, the camber can only be adjusted by replacing the existing camber arm bolts with special adjustment bolts available from MB.
Great cars to drive, effortless to drive and can be run on a modest budget if you can do your own maintenance.
 

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