CLA Shooting Brake 2016 - Rear wheel bearing

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Eazyd123

New Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2022
Messages
17
Location
🇬🇧
Car
Mercedes CLA 200d AMG Line Shooting Brake
Hi All,

I have recently heard a noise from the rear n/S wheel, it is even more prominent at around 40 mph - 50 mph. It is a whining type of noise and I am sure it is the rear bearing.

I was enquiring if anyone has a guide for replacing the rear bearing hub? I think it is similar to the A class W176.

Thanks in advance
 
4 bolts at the rear , possibly some abs sensors wiring to disconnect. It's not a hard job 👍👍
 
I thought that was the case!
Does the calliper carrier need to come off?
Any specialist sockets needed? I think it's an E24 for the 4 bolts, right?
 
Hi All,

I have recently heard a noise from the rear n/S wheel, it is even more prominent at around 40 mph - 50 mph. It is a whining type of noise and I am sure it is the rear bearing.

I was enquiring if anyone has a guide for replacing the rear bearing hub? I think it is similar to the A class W176.

Thanks in advance
Just check it isn't the tyres.

Some brands do become noisy as they wear.
 
I thought that was the case!
Does the calliper carrier need to come off?
Any specialist sockets needed? I think it's an E24 for the 4 bolts, right?
I'd think so, to get the disc off.
 
Okay all,

So I have finally finished 4 hrs later. I managed to crack the bolts off using the wheel brace I used (from my missus Audi Q3) to take the wheel off. I put it over the end of my wratchet to get more leverage and it worked a treat. I did spray some WD40 on the bolts 15 mins before hand.

I then removed the brake pads and caliper, cable tied it up to the strut and removed the 4 (E14 socket) bolts holding on the hub. Doing this I managed to remove the brake guard, hub and disc without removing the calliper carrier.
I then put new hub in the same way as I removed it. guard, hub and then disc (screwed the disc to the hub with the T30 that holds it.
Slid the disc and the ancillaries all together between the carrier and jobs a gooden 😉.

Thanks again…
 
A good old fashioned breaker bar is very useful in these situations..... saves you potentially breaking off the teeth inside you ratchet head and ruining it. I have a few in various sizes....the 24 inch 1/2 drive one getting the most use. You can pick them up cheap enough....I think mine was a tenner at the market about 10 years ago!!....cheaper than breaking a quality ratchet or worse still torque wrench.....I saw my neighbour standing and jumping on his torque wrench to free of a jammed wheel nut recently.....not recommended for future accuracy!!!

1716197581702.png
 
A good old fashioned breaker bar is very useful in these situations..... saves you potentially breaking off the teeth inside you ratchet head and ruining it. I have a few in various sizes....the 24 inch 1/2 drive one getting the most use. You can pick them up cheap enough....I think mine was a tenner at the market about 10 years ago!!....cheaper than breaking a quality ratchet
An absolute essential. Ratchets are for convenience not massive loads.
or worse still torque wrench.....I saw my neighbour standing and jumping on his torque wrench to free of a jammed wheel nut recently.....not recommended for future accuracy!!!
Depends the type of TW? Clicker types are fine as once 'clicked' the load is direct to the body. If it hasn't clicked, then still within its capability.
 
Why you shouldn't leave a clicker type TW at any setting other than zero when stored. A 16-18% loss of accuracy in 6 months.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
 
I have a few in various sizes....the 24 inch 1/2 drive one getting the most use.
The crankshaft bolt on my Audi 90 required the 24 inch 3/4 drive bar with 8 feet of scaffold pole as an extension, and me jumping on the end. A torque of about 3000 Nm. After a couple of cam belt changes, the home made crank locking tool gave up the ghost.
Ian.
 
3000nm?....really?
Yes, give or take, I weighed less back then. But that is the torque to remove. The tightening torque was a far more reasonable 200 Nm + 180 degrees, with threadlock; or 350 Nm with the special Audi tool.

Ian.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom