Clay

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tonyc280

Active Member
Joined
May 22, 2010
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Location
Leicestershire
Car
1997 C280 V6 Elegance Auto Facelift. 1992 Kawasaki ZZR1100 C3
How does the above actually work ? Is it like an extremely fine grit Bar ? like the equivalent of say 2500 grit wet and dry paper ? cheers, Tony.
 
So is it worth doing? Does a car have to be really bad to notice the difference?
 
I did my wife's golf for the first timea couple of months ago that we had owned for 7 years. The difference was amazing, the paint felt so smooth and after a wax and polish the shine was by far and away the best it had ever been. It has also lasted well and been much easier to clean since doing it.
 
Definitely worth doing, it essentially picks up all the bonded contaminants off the paint without any aggression. Makes the bodywork and glass feel super smooth. I generally do it twice a year as it does remove any protection you have applied.

Some people say they notice scratches/swirls etc, afterwards but the chances are they are just seeing how bad their paintwork really is. Most consumer waxes are quite filler heavy (Autoglym SRP for example) which do a good job of hiding these marks. If you don't want to polish your paintwork using abrasive compounds a couple of coats of Autoglym SRP generally does the trick, just put a wax or sealant on top to lock the fillers in.
 
It will strip all your wax protection off with it though so it's imperative that you apply a decent wax after you've finished. Or if you don't have much time at the very least a couple of layers of a spray detailer.
 
I recently bought a silver W208 CLK320, and it had been neglected for some time. I gave it a thorough clean, then clayed it using Meguiar's Smooth Surface clay kit. Although the paintwork looked clean before I started, it was rough to the touch. After claying the whole car the visual difference wasn't immediately obvious, but the paintwork was wonderfully smooth. I rewashed it the following day, then started the polishing phase. It's now been polished once with Meguiar's ultimate polish, and the paintwork is looking much better (although I now think it needs a more aggressive compound).

The key thing with clay is that it removes bonded contaminants that washing alone cannot get rid of, ie particles of dirt that are stuck in the surface. All these contaminants are pretty much invisible individually, but they dull the finish and restrict how good you can get the surface looking even with polishing and waxing.

As a general rule, if you are the kind of person that has a multi-stage bodywork regime (clean, polish, wax etc), then you should definitely add claying to your process.
 
Il give it a go then, sounds good.

Plenty of lubrication when you're claying (sounds rude, ooh err) A decent speed detailer or clay lube will do the trick. I normally clay once the car is rinsed and has surface water on the paint work.... All helps ;)
 
Definitely recommend clay barring, but you need to put aside a good few hours. I clay barred my CLS a couple of weeks after acquiring it. As much as it looked clean, it felt rough when running your hand over the panels.

All in all the process took about 5 hours, consisting of a full wash, clay bar, full wash and finally sealing with wax. The photo shows the water sheeting off the left side of the bonnet after claying, but not the right. There had been no wax applied at this point.

I used a Bilt Hamber clay bar, which allows you to use water as a lubricant.

Due to the time it takes, I have only ever done it twice with plenty of explaining to the other half as to why I've spent half the day 'washing' the car!! :doh:
 

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Definitely recommend clay barring, but you need to put aside a good few hours. I clay barred my CLS a couple of weeks after acquiring it. As much as it looked clean, it felt rough when running your hand over the panels.

All in all the process took about 5 hours, consisting of a full wash, clay bar, full wash and finally sealing with wax. The photo shows the water sheeting off the left side of the bonnet after claying, but not the right. There had been no wax applied at this point.

I used a Bilt Hamber clay bar, which allows you to use water as a lubricant.

Due to the time it takes, I have only ever done it twice with plenty of explaining to the other half as to why I've spent half the day 'washing' the car!! :doh:

You only need to clay twice a year in my humbuble opinion. After winter and all the gritt has gone from the roads, and before winter so you get a good surface to get your preferd layers of protection :thumb:
 
Bought some AutoGlym clay and detailing spray and thought I would give it a go on my 60 plate 5 Series which has never been clayed before. Was amazed at the difference and the amount of brown crud that the clay picked up off the panels. Not sure I would do this more than a couple of times a year though as it took me 5 hours to finish the car! Rinse, wash, rinse, dry, clay, AutoGlym Polish, High Def Wax. Was going to vacuum the inside of the car but was knackered by then! Anyway this was just a practice for when I get the C63 Estate........
 
I did mine today too! Never used a clay bar either.
I also used the autoglym kit, £17.99 from Amazon - the bodywork now has an incredible silk-like finish to it :)
So the process was:
Wash
chamois dry
clay (panel at a time) used the provided autoglym detailer as the lubricant
wiped off with micro-fibre cloth
autoglym super resin polish
buffed..
autoglym extra gloss protection
buffed up...
autoglym aqua wax
buffed up again!
While I was at it, i polished the windows, lights, under the bonnet...

And I too am knackered now! lol....
soooo worth it though :)
 
Clay bar is great (on a white car) for removing the tar spots and bugs. Restores the factory smoothness.

Helps reduce drag...
 
I use a water and car shampoo mix for claying. Saves wasting your quick detailer.
 
Alternatively use Bilt Hamber Clay, uses water as lubricant and comes in a number of varieties depending on the state of the paint! (hard, medium and soft clays)

Regards, Neil

PS Giantvanman - Love the avatar
 

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